no , electrical problems. help anyone :(

[Ryoken]

hopefully that grabbed someone's beady eye.
I was coming home today, car drove OK then I get a jolt, then trans failsafe
car will shift from auto to sport, but no manual , no other lights.
thought, bugger here we go again,
noticed however the following
at 2k rpm, I got a weird noise from car speakers like a pop or a thud noise
and the instrument cluster kept going a bit dim, then went normal,
hmm, battery or alternator any one ?.
parked up at side of road, wife went to supermarket , and revved car to 3 to 4k . same again speakers popped , then I got what I think was the pcd gong chiming , I thought wife had walked round back of car.. but no. turned car off, and drove home , after a bit same issues
decided I was going to see what my misfire was ( another fault) turned out to be leaking drivers rocker gasket ,. as there was oil in plugs.
took car for test drive, MUCH better drive , a lot more responsive, no gearbox error, put car in reverse, ping there it was again, BUGGER,
so got multimeter out and took some tests here are my findings
this is left after 20 to 30 minutes
ignition off 12.3 V
ignition on 11.9 V
crank 9.98V
idle is 13.2 no load
idle 12.3 load,= lights heated F+R screens
3k RPM 14.2V
settled voltage is 13.3
now the voltage on the battery fluctuates quite a bit aswell,
any ideas any one??

[itsbrokeagain]

looks like your alternator is taking a dump. at idle with full accessories on it should still put out 13.1V

[Ryoken]

let me double check the readings, the battery should have settled by now,

I'm bored at looking on rocker cover gaskets

[Ryoken]

right , got wife to do multimeter

ignition off 12.2 v
ig on no load 12.05
ig on load . radio heater F+R heated screens 11.7
crank 9.6
idle 14.10
13.5 loaded. but slowly increasing
14.5 @3k rpm

just been out now after car being off all night.
12.02 no ignition.
11.9 ig on no load
11.5 ig on with load,
10 crank
14.07 idle
14.10 @ 3k

[Ryoken]

just to update you guys, went to a battery* supplier to test battery,

he tested battery, said battery was ok, however* a little low voltage,
he then did a drop test on it to confirm (stab test OK
he then did an alternator test on it , said my alternator was ok
started it up , I get a ping , red battery warning illuminated,
I'm getting 12 volts at battery with car running , and 12 volts at 3k

CRAP CRAP CRAP

is there a fuse on the alternator , or has the alternator been killed?
ive disconnected the battery from the car now, going to charge it up all day ,* lets see what happens when I re connect it
I'm not happy

[StephenVA]

I would swap out the battery as a test.

[Ryoken]

battery has been of car all day charging , just been out to fire it up now, still got the red battery light on ,just been out , I'm reading 11.8v across the terminals in the engine bay so there is no charge from alternator
crap

[dartiii]

Voltage regulator would be my guess. If alternator hasn't been replaced, I'd say just replace the alternator.

As the voltage regulator fails, or the brushes wear, all sorts of erratic readings are noticed.

[Fifty150hs]

Alternator should be putting out at least 14.1V at idle. Sounds like it's getting ready to die.

[Ryoken]

just been out now (finished work) multimeter reading at battery 12 volts
no 14 , looks like its a dead alternator