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  #11  
Old 08-11-2017, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefRider View Post
Yikes.

I bought the bearings online, $130 for the pair of Timken branded bearings, which turned out to be FAG. My shop frequently asks me to get the parts- They know I strive for better quality than what they typically have available.

My indie is quite good. While he quoted me $300 labor (one side) he will charge less if it takes less time. The job won't be a problem for him at his shop. For me, it would be a PITA.
Looks like the FAG bearings are $85ish for the pair and brand new BMW hubs are $90ish each. Plus a few bucks for new half shaft and tie-rod lock/control arm locknuts and whatnot.

The $450 labor charge is for both sides, so I can't really complain about that. I actually kind of wanted to buy the HF hydraulic punch tool and try it, my issue is time, I just can't spare half of a weekend day to mess with it.
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  #12  
Old 08-11-2017, 06:43 PM
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I'm not sure if my front wheel bearings are okay.
I have some front end noise but I'm not sure if it's tires
or wheel bearings.
Is there a test to see if they are still good
.
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  #13  
Old 08-11-2017, 06:52 PM
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Kind of hard to determine exactly without a set of electronic "ears", unless the bearing is REALLY bad. Easier if the X5 wasn't AWD.

Typical failure mode for a wheel bearing is spalling of the rolling element(s) and/or the raceways. As the spalling progresses, the bearing gets rougher and noisier, easier to detect. They will still function for quite some time, just getting noisier. If left too long, it can be catastrophic.
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  #14  
Old 08-11-2017, 11:03 PM
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When I needed to replace my front bearings (at different times) I removed the hub assembly and took it and the new Timken bearing to an auto shop; they charged $50 to press out the old bearing and press in the new one. I also replaced my ball joints while I was at it.
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  #15  
Old 08-11-2017, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefRider View Post
Kind of hard to determine exactly without a set of electronic "ears", unless the bearing is REALLY bad. Easier if the X5 wasn't AWD.

Typical failure mode for a wheel bearing is spalling of the rolling element(s) and/or the raceways. As the spalling progresses, the bearing gets rougher and noisier, easier to detect. They will still function for quite some time, just getting noisier. If left too long, it can be catastrophic.
You'll know long before they get to "catastrophic" as the droning will drive you outta your skull... but it IS hard to figure out which wheel it is, as it's a very non-directional sound.

I had this quandary - I knew I had a bad bearing but couldn't find it. Left it to get worse and worse until it was very obvious which it was (right rear). Outer race was badly spalled but bearing was still in decent condition otherwise (no play as only one race of the two races was damaged).
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  #16  
Old 08-12-2017, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
That guy is a hack. If you are going to be posting a video on how to do a front bearing post this guy video.



It's for an X3, but the two SAV are similar, but the best thing is his procedure on removing the bearing from the hub. I use the same hydraulic press but use an OTC front wheel bearing repair kit instead of making special plates.

Neat gizmo but did he say 10T press. That wouldn't have gotten my bearing out. Freezing will reduce the size by closer to 0.003 which helped a lot in putting the new bearing in. The HF kit with 1" bolt to replace the 3/4 bolt triples the force of either the 3/4 bolt or the 10T hydraulic press which will work great until it doesn't.

Math and the total destruction of three hardened 3/4 push rods indicated a force close to 30/35,000 pounds was needed to remove my bearing even when heating the knuckle to 240F and putting dry ice inside the old bearing.

I applied close to 350 ft-lb of torque to the 3/4-19 oiled threads (over 25/30,000# of force and nothing happened until I also used MAP torch to heat the knuckle to about 240 F when it released with a BANG.

Removing the old race from the hub exactly like described above: cut at an angle with angle grinder and use a chisel to snap when it's close to cut through. The next time I'll try to just cut along the hub to make a groove where a chisel can fit to push it off and use MAP torch to heat the part

I have a noisy bearing on wife's x5 but haven't determined which yet so I can replace but it's in my near future.

I developed a way to replace the rear without suspension disassembly but the front is still easier so I'm hoping for front left. (Already replaced front right)

If your spare tire is narrower than regular, swapping on the spare can instantly determine which bearing is shot. I only knew one of my bearings was shot when I installed some narrower wheels and the weight shifted from the outer to the inner race. I may try this exact method with my wife's car to pin down which corner is causing the drone.

NOT removing the knuckle saves $150-200 for one side $200-300 for both sides (no paying $50/100 per side for a shop to use 20T press and no need to get an alignment. )

This is a great job for DIY but engineering the press that can push hard enough is the trick. Maybe because I have a pair of '01s BMW may have used tighter press fit than newer model years and the 20,000# will work with newer models. My truck will laugh at you all day with a 10T press. A 3/4 bolt is good for 23,000# and I turned three of them into smooth metal rods trying to remove two front bearings.

If you have access to a lathe, making a couple plates with a 1" hole and a $5 grade 8 1-14 bolt and a $10 bronze thrust bearing will get you into the 20T by hand range and 30+T with big impact wrench range. It was laughable how easy pressing on the new bearing for the rear it was I didn't even bother to use heat or cold as I was aware that I had twice the force required on tap with my upgraded tool.

For somebody near Chicago/Milwaukee I would definitely meet with you to with out a help out situation. I couldn't remove my axle nut from my copy of x5 with a 2' breaker bar and a 4# hammer (estimate 500+ ft-lb) so I bought the high torque Milwaukee M18 impact with 700 ft-lb CW and 1100 ft-lb CCW. I've used it to break free some rusted under water pier footings that laughed my 220 ft-lb impact and not only did it zip the bolt right out of the threaded hole, it was literally smoking. Have to be careful when installing I've stretched 1/2" bolts, it will easily snap them.

I bought a retuned HF bearing tool for about half price because some a hole stripped the rod and returned it. I already planned to upgrade the tool to 1" bolt so that worked great for me. 63,000 vs 23,000 pounds of force. Yesplease. I won't have to but probably still will put the bearing in my freezer overnight because the extra 3/1000 dropped the install force by about 5 tons compared to removal force.



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  #17  
Old 08-12-2017, 05:06 PM
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Put the cleaned and prep'ed hub into the freezer for a bit too, while you are driving in the bearing. That way when you get to driving in the hub, it's a little easier also.
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  #18  
Old 08-12-2017, 05:38 PM
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I put dry ice inside the hub. -80F it would probably actually work better to use the freezer


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  #19  
Old 08-12-2017, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I put dry ice inside the hub. -80F it would probably actually work better to use the freezer


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With the rapid cooling of the part by dry ice are you concern with stress fracture of the metal?
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