Front Wheel Bearings Questions - Page 2

wpoll · #1 08-10-2017, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott ZHP

They didn't want to bother trying to get the old race off the hubs when they pop them off. I told them for $358 they need to try for half an hour labor or so. They got the hint.

Take about 3 minutes to nick the old race with cutting wheel and smack it with a cold chisel. Job done.

ChiefRider · #2 08-10-2017, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott ZHP

Mine are making a racket too at 160k. My local (highly respected) indy shop just quoted me the following:

$467.50 labor (5.5hrs @ $85/hr)
$414 bearings (Timken @ $207 ea... really?)
$358 hubs ($179 ea)

I'm ok with the labor, but the parts quote is way high. They're ok with using parts that I supply so long as they're SKF, FAG or Timken. They will warrant the labor, but not parts that I supply; which is fair. They didn't want to bother trying to get the old race off the hubs when they pop them off. I told them for $358 they need to try for half an hour labor or so. They got the hint.

I'd normally tackle this myself, but I really can't spare the time with kids headed to college. I figure the hydraulic puller and plates and hardened threaded rod is about $200, so I'm looking at a net of about $270, which I'm ok with.

Yikes.

I bought the bearings online, $130 for the pair of Timken branded bearings, which turned out to be FAG. My shop frequently asks me to get the parts- They know I strive for better quality than what they typically have available.

My indie is quite good. While he quoted me $300 labor (one side) he will charge less if it takes less time. The job won't be a problem for him at his shop. For me, it would be a PITA.

Scott ZHP · #3 08-11-2017, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChiefRider

Yikes.

I bought the bearings online, $130 for the pair of Timken branded bearings, which turned out to be FAG. My shop frequently asks me to get the parts- They know I strive for better quality than what they typically have available.

My indie is quite good. While he quoted me $300 labor (one side) he will charge less if it takes less time. The job won't be a problem for him at his shop. For me, it would be a PITA.

Looks like the FAG bearings are $85ish for the pair and brand new BMW hubs are $90ish each. Plus a few bucks for new half shaft and tie-rod lock/control arm locknuts and whatnot.

The $450 labor charge is for both sides, so I can't really complain about that. I actually kind of wanted to buy the HF hydraulic punch tool and try it, my issue is time, I just can't spare half of a weekend day to mess with it.

AV8R4AA · #4 08-11-2017, 06:43 PM

I'm not sure if my front wheel bearings are okay.
I have some front end noise but I'm not sure if it's tires
or wheel bearings.
Is there a test to see if they are still good
.

ChiefRider · #5 08-11-2017, 06:52 PM

Kind of hard to determine exactly without a set of electronic "ears", unless the bearing is REALLY bad. Easier if the X5 wasn't AWD.

Typical failure mode for a wheel bearing is spalling of the rolling element(s) and/or the raceways. As the spalling progresses, the bearing gets rougher and noisier, easier to detect. They will still function for quite some time, just getting noisier. If left too long, it can be catastrophic.

Kristophe · #6 08-11-2017, 11:03 PM

When I needed to replace my front bearings (at different times) I removed the hub assembly and took it and the new Timken bearing to an auto shop; they charged $50 to press out the old bearing and press in the new one. I also replaced my ball joints while I was at it.

wpoll · #7 08-11-2017, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChiefRider

Kind of hard to determine exactly without a set of electronic "ears", unless the bearing is REALLY bad. Easier if the X5 wasn't AWD.

Typical failure mode for a wheel bearing is spalling of the rolling element(s) and/or the raceways. As the spalling progresses, the bearing gets rougher and noisier, easier to detect. They will still function for quite some time, just getting noisier. If left too long, it can be catastrophic.

You'll know long before they get to "catastrophic" as the droning will drive you outta your skull... but it IS hard to figure out which wheel it is, as it's a very non-directional sound.

I had this quandary - I knew I had a bad bearing but couldn't find it. Left it to get worse and worse until it was very obvious which it was (right rear). Outer race was badly spalled but bearing was still in decent condition otherwise (no play as only one race of the two races was damaged).

wpoll · #8 08-12-2017, 05:06 PM

Put the cleaned and prep'ed hub into the freezer for a bit too, while you are driving in the bearing. That way when you get to driving in the hub, it's a little easier also.