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  #131  
Old 05-04-2022, 05:02 PM
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A FoxWell does the work for me. The shifter light is right on. The Foxwell can command the X5 to sleep. The doors can be open but the latches must be locked. Same goes for hatch or tailgate. I guess you can sit in the rear for 16 minutes if you like. Using a scanner is much easier. Since power is going through F60 on mine, it won't go to sleep. If I pull it, amp draw is 11 mA. A cousin that works for a BMW dealership has offered to help me out. He'll code a new GENIII module. I just need to buy one. Plus, I'll pay him for an alignment. I would trust him over a general alignment shop. One promising note. My cousin says in all the years he's worked for BMW, he's only touched 3 M54 engines! He agrees it's the best engine BMW ever made.
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  #132  
Old 05-05-2022, 12:47 PM
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You test it by connecting the multimeter in series between the negative battery terminal and negative cable. Open the read door and wait until the car goes to sleep. It will go to sleep even with an open door.
Then you come back and look at thr multimeter readings and you'll see the draw in sleep mode.
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  #133  
Old 05-05-2022, 12:54 PM
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BMW Vehicle Parasitic Draw Testing
When your car battery goes dead overnight, usually either the battery is at the end of its life span, or you left something on, such as a light. Occasionally something is drawing power that's not of your doing. This is a parasitic draw, and it can cause the same result as leaving the headlights on: a dead battery in the morning.

1. Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
2. Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. The meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter.
3. Attach a multimeter (set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeter’s instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep".
4. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
5. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings) last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.
6. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
7. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
8. Repeat steps 1 & 2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you the exact numbers.
BMW Battery Draw Testing
If your Shifter light is on, the car is definitely staying awake.
Your Battery will go down within days. If the light is not on you can have a parasitic draw, while the car is in sleep mode. The only difference, is the second draw is from a module which can’t wake the system (not mission critical), and it will take a lot longer to discharge the battery.
Shifter light NOT on: (battery fully charged)
Find the ground cable on the battery, but do not disconnect. (the cable end connected to the body not the battery, is easier to handle.)
Connect the Positive lead from the “Fluke” to the body of the car (good ground)
Connect the Negative lead to the (brown) ground cable (you can puncture it)
Make sure it’s easy to disconnect the (brown) cable from the body, but don’t take it off yet.
Open the glove box and remove and disable the switch so the light will not turn on, locate the fuse box.
Start the car and run at idle, turn EVERYTHING on, and activate all the components (sunroof, windows, a/c, lights …..) run 5 min.
turn the car off and remove the key. Open all doors and trunk, and with a screw driver,
close the door locks so the system thinks all doors and the trunk is closed.
Now lock the vehicle with the remote.
The “Fluke” must be set up to “A” not “mA” otherwise you will blow the
fuse in the meter. Remove the nut from the ground cable and remove the cable from the stud. You meter will indicate around (300mA).
Let the car go to sleep. (16 min) minimum, if this is not happening start over.
After the sleep mode is on the draw should not be more then 50mA, if it’s more go to the glove box and start pulling fuses one by one and check the draw after each one, but do NOT re-install the fuse. Pull the fuse and leave it out
There are some fuses under the right cover in the trunk. If you pull a fuse and car wakes up start over (next time ignore this fuse). If you pull a fuse and the draw drops to around 50mA, read the label on the fuse, you will know which circuit is faulty.
Relay locked on - test
Take out your infrared temp gun and measure each relay. The one that is hotter is "on". Simple!
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  #134  
Old 05-06-2022, 03:58 AM
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For what its worth my drain that I struggled with for a good 8 years was due to a faulty starter motor, totally killing the amps of the battery on each startup!
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  #135  
Old 05-25-2022, 12:10 PM
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My foxwell wouldn't put it to sleep, I went under Maintenance/instrument cluster/sleep mode and got the message that this feature isn't supported by this vehicle. I Have the schwaben one that ecs sells and I keep it's software up to date.


So I put my multimeter in sequence with the grounds. I closed the lower tailgate and left the upper tailgate open. Initially I was pulling 5 amps. I let it sit for a while and the light on the shifter went out. It's now showing .02 amps so I suppose it means I just have a bad battery?


Wondering if the broken cover on my positive let the battery touch the spare wheel?


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  #136  
Old 05-25-2022, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petebert View Post
... Wondering if the broken cover on my positive let the battery touch the spare wheel?
Possible but unlikely - the high current that would result in the (grounded) spare wheel touching the positive terminal would likely result in: -

1. welding or...
2. lots of heat or...
3. a fire, or...
4. obvious arc-induced damage to bolts etc.

Or even all four!

Clearly, none of this has happened in your case - it all looks ok.
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  #137  
Old 05-25-2022, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omodos View Post
For what its worth my drain that I struggled with for a good 8 years was due to a faulty starter motor, totally killing the amps of the battery on each startup!

I bring this up in every case of these mystery battery issues.

About 10-15% of the time it's a starter motor.

I regularly see cases where it seems like a weak battery; battery gets replaced then two months later the symptoms come back because it was the starter. Maybe just 1 time out of 8 but it's worth checking the starter current draw before replacing a battery.
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  #138  
Old 05-25-2022, 06:57 PM
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20 milliamps is asleep. With only one remaining fuse with amp draw pulled, mine rests at 11 milliamps. Standard by info I found it 18 milliamps.

The EWS module has an incoming and outgoing 12V starter wires. It's good to measure amp draw at those wires.
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  #139  
Old 05-26-2022, 04:16 PM
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I left the battery unhooked overnight aaaannnnnd, the battery held fine. So now we're back to square zero. So what's the best way to test this starter? I haven't looked into the EWS much yet to see how the wires are configured on it.
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  #140  
Old 05-26-2022, 04:31 PM
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If amp draw is not going through F11, go for the starter battery power wire. F11 powers the immobilizer (EWS). I deleted my EWS over replacing a whole parts bin. A hidden switch cuts off solenoid power to keep it from cranking.
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