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  #71  
Old 02-01-2018, 11:26 AM
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Hey guys,

I was kind of 'honored' when I saw my name mentioned as I was still looking for a solution to my drain issues.

My X5 2001 4.4 still has the problem when the weather gets cold (and it gets cold in Chicago). I replaced a couple of batteries because they eventually die because of excessive drain and not much driving to recharge the battery.

I did several repairs including the known capacitor repair to the GM3 to make sure it functions properly and not keep other modules awake. The car still randomly stays awake / sleeps although the drain does not seem to be as bad. Another interesting thing is, the car goes to sleep every time when I attach the multimeter to see the current drain. The final current after sleep is .04 amps which is normal. If I do not attach the multimeter and look at the shifter light and the small fan inside the IHKA as a sign of sleep, they dont turn off after 16 mins, which means its not sleeping.

I will take a look at the TCU and FSU once again. There are no signs of a broken FSU but the fact that things start happening when cold makes me think there may be something still wrong with it.

Thanks for all the help once again,

Ozzie
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  #72  
Old 02-01-2018, 11:11 PM
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Is your hood open when you are measuring the current?where do you break the circuit to insert ammeter?


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  #73  
Old 02-02-2018, 11:13 AM
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The battery is at the back under the spare tyre as you know. I break the circuit there. I attach two jump start cables (frequently used), extend the connection to driver's area and attach the multimeter there. The measurement is .94 amp for a min, then .48 amp for 15 more mins and .04 amp at the end, which I think is normal. That is when the multimeter is attached. When not, the car does not go to sleep. So bizarre..

I am replacing the FSU today to eliminate another doubt. It does not show signs of fault but you never know..

Thanks,

Ozzie
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  #74  
Old 10-30-2019, 12:45 PM
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Hello, I wake up this post because I have a problem with the loss of electricity after the night, at first I thought that starting the car after the night is difficult because of the fuel system or something else, but when it started to get colder the car started to fire slowly and finally I could not start it. With the help of another car and firing the cables is ok but until the next morning. Measurement after sleeping mode shows .05 and sometimes it reaches .07 the battery is new and it is strange that it dies so quickly
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  #75  
Old 10-30-2019, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makus View Post
Hello, I wake up this post because I have a problem with the loss of electricity after the night, at first I thought that starting the car after the night is difficult because of the fuel system or something else, but when it started to get colder the car started to fire slowly and finally I could not start it. With the help of another car and firing the cables is ok but until the next morning. Measurement after sleeping mode shows .05 and sometimes it reaches .07 the battery is new and it is strange that it dies so quickly
Do you have Nav?

Do you have blue tooth?

Does your fan in the car run even after the car has "gone to sleep?"
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  #76  
Old 10-30-2019, 02:15 PM
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Yes i have nav, no bluetooth and when car run in the sleep mode then fan stop

I also thinking about ground cable ��
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  #77  
Old 10-30-2019, 02:43 PM
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Parasitic Battery Drain e53

How old is the battery? My battery at end of life would start the car fine even when 0F but If I left the hazard on for 8 minutes I needed a jump start.

If you try that test: run your hazards for maybe ten minutes after driving long enough to have a good charge; if the car won't start it's probably the battery.

The day before I replaced my battery it tested fine with 550 CCA. Held over 12.4v overnight so all normal tests it passed.

First time I needed a jump was from running an ac inverter, second time was from charging an iPhone less than 30 minutes, third time was 8 minutes of hazards.

With new battery I've run hazards for more than an hour (should be able to run for 10-12 hours).
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  #78  
Old 10-30-2019, 02:58 PM
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I changed the battery for a new 3 months ago, after the whole night of charging the car started without a problem, but after a few hours the energy drop was that the car had no power to start
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  #79  
Old 10-30-2019, 03:07 PM
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If the current draw drops to 40ma after it goes to sleep you don't have a parasitic draw.

Check the vBat at the battery when you attempt to start. If vBat stays high the problem is likely either the B+ terminal loose or a ground or a connection like the starter.

You can measure vBat at the cig lighter as that is always live and takes a different path to the front of the car than the start/alternator cable.

The other thing you should check is the current draw of the starter which should be about 200-250A. If you have a peak reading multimeter you can measure the voltage drop from the B+ under the hood to the pos of the sig lighter. IIRC you multiply the voltage drop by 300 to get amps to the starter eg. 0.75v= 225A.

When a starter begins to fail it will take more and more current up to double. When that happens you lose double the voltage on the wiring and you get slow turning starter it will "feel like" the battery is low. I've seen a dozen cases of somebody replace both battery and alternator when the starter was the actual problem.

A loose ground strap will have the same problem. If it's loose it can have a 4v drop across the connection and suddenly 12v is 8 and a car won't start
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Old 10-30-2019, 03:10 PM
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The weather is getting cold once again in Chicago and I am expecting battery issues but what I found last year which seemed to help was disconnecting the Climate Control module. I used to pull all 3 plugs off and that seemed to stop the battery drain. I already had checked to see the little fan inside turning off and it was so I am not sure what was the issue. I am guessing the module itself is broken and keeping something running in the engine which I could not spot either..


Thanks,


Ozzie
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