Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn
I had many of the same symptoms including the transmission failsafe. I got many of the symptoms before realizing my alternator brushes and slip rings were shot, and the trans. failsafe actually happened AFTER replacing the refurbished ALT, I apparently only hand-tightened the nut that holds the alternator power cord and when it fell off (the nut) of course I got terrible voltage/current delivery and led to the trans-failsafe.
I replaced the 8mm nut (eventually months later i found the original on top of the underbelly plate) and after a start or three any dash lights reset themselves.
As mentioned above 'very sensitive to voltage fluctuations'. If you ever had the abs/brake trifecta come on as you came to a stop light, almost a guarantee it's the alternator.
A rebuild kit with slip rings and brushes is about $20, takes an hour or so. The voltage regulator is between $40 and $90 depending which model of alternator you have.
Use the hidden menu to monitor voltage (or I use an app on my phone; dash command); if the voltage ever dips below 13v, and especially as you drop RPM such as coming to a stop, also if the abs trifecta came on with no obvious cause and maybe reset itself once in a while but stays on almost always, again, all points to voltage fluctuations.
These can be caused by the ignition switch apparently, but if you are working on an original alternator, odds-on favorite culprit having just refurbished mine after getting very similar symptoms that were cured by only repairing the alternator nothing else.
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Even though i constantly measure a Charging Voltage of 14.1v at Battery terminals at idle revs.
I'd still consider the Alt could be the issue...
Yes, it is an Original Alt.
Sadly, we don't have a Second Key to try you other suggestion
But it is one thing i'd like to do.
10-09-2017, 03:49 AM
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