New here, Picked up a 4.6is project. Chasing water leak..

311evo · #1 10-09-2017, 10:59 PM

Hello! I just picked up my first BMW in the form of a 4.6is. It needs some work all around, I enjoy it and saw it as a good opportunity to learn about the world of BMW's along with getting a sweet ride for a good price.

Besides this I own a Jeep as a DD, along with a 2003 Evo with 600awhp. I reside in Minnesota (Anyone local here??)

It's a 2003, black, motor runs/sounds good. Transmission shifts good although the fluid smells like a campfire. (previous owner had timing guide/all motor seals replaced sometime in the last couple years).

Previous owner also had the front end suspension components rebuilt 3 years ago.

Cons: Needs new pads/rotors (purchased) along with rear end suspension rebuilt (also purchased, needs this badly, excited to install and get it aligned). Hood latch cable, etc etc..

Only the driver window worked, and the door would not lock, security would not arm. I cleaned the harness going to the body and wha-la! Everything now works.

Replaced passenger side handle mechanism. Oil Change.

Replacing DSP amp with my own, along with a Kenwood double din. (1/2 done)

Planning on replacing transmission filter/fluid/Solenoid(? Researching this still.. but transmission shifts well)

One issue I'm still chasing down is the leak that took out the DSP amp.

I tested all of the drains for the sunroof and all of them seemed to flow quite well. I did not take the headliner down yet because of this.

Theres very little/no water that gets into the main battery area, it's very specific to the amp location.

Tailgate doesn't seem to take on water.. Thinking about taking the light out of the gate to check the seal. The outer light seal visually looked fine and I added a bit of sealant around the openings to ensure that wasn't the culprit... Being so close to the effected areas.

Rained for a few days, rear left carpet (above the passive vent in the boot) became soaked again..

That being said, I'm excited to restore this car to it's original glory over the next couple weeks.

andrewwynn · #2 10-10-2017, 12:44 AM

Welcome to the club. This is the best place on earth to get info on how to diy an x5.

Do you have a roof rack? If the rack was deleted and the mount point wasn't sealed properly I think water could get there. Pics would go a long way to help track it down.

Both my wife and my x5 (both 01) need the rear subframe bushings. Look at your thrust bushings in front they are an easy thing to miss and should be already replaced or need it.

Careful with the hood latch it's not designed well and puts way more stress on itself than it should. Mine came off in my hand and since the design sucks I didn't care to replace with the same suck design my copy of the X has a little rope inside the grill for the secondary latch. It pulls in a much better spot and takes 1/5 the force to operate.

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andrewwynn · #3 10-10-2017, 12:46 AM

The leak seems like possibly either around the main lift gate seal or possibly the left rear window. When it's hot and dry outside and the car is bone dry a few minutes with some tissue paper and a hose you should be able to track down the leak

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311evo · #4 10-10-2017, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The leak seems like possibly either around the main lift gate seal or possibly the left rear window. When it's hot and dry outside and the car is bone dry a few minutes with some tissue paper and a hose you should be able to track down the leak

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That's on my list for tomorrow! I'm going to finish the double din/factory amp elimination along with testing for leaks.

Today I replaced the front pads and rotors, they were ROOOUGH. Pad material completely gone...The metal backing plates had rusted to nothing but dust. It was crazy.

Now my Yellow exclamation light is on.. I'm not too worried. This happened when I did the door harness and then went away. Once I do the rears I'll reset the brake light and see what happens. The fronts do seem to be working well!

jcp240z · #5 10-17-2017, 01:43 AM

When you say the DSP amp are you referring to the space on side in the rear driver side? That is where the DSP amp is located. Check the seal on the DR taillight.
If you are seeing water in the center well, that is the radio module.

311evo · #6 10-17-2017, 03:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcp240z

When you say the DSP amp are you referring to the space on side in the rear driver side? That is where the DSP amp is located. Check the seal on the DR taillight.
If you are seeing water in the center well, that is the radio module.

That is correct, the space on the drivers side. I checked/sealed the outer light but have not done the one in the tailgate. Is that the one you're referring to?

jcp240z · #7 10-17-2017, 09:54 AM

I didn’t see that you had checked the taillight. Some people mistake the radio module in the battery well for an amp. When you talked about the tailgate and water in your amp I wasnt sure where you were referring to. All clear now.

311evo · #8 10-18-2017, 05:38 PM

Some positive updates...

I was able to completely/immediately eliminate all abs/brake lights by cleaning the ABS sensor connector on the front left wheel. I noticed the light came on after doing that side, decided to try while I wait for my Diagnostic tool in the mail...

I'm chasing down an occasional hard-start issue. At times it fires right up, others it takes a long crank and stumbles to life. I'm thinking about hooking up a Fuel pressure gauge to see what's happening, also might run a bottle or two of fuel system cleaner to try and free up injector(s) that may be sticking..

scourtaud23 · #9 10-18-2017, 05:51 PM

I just replaced the fuel filter/pressure regulator on my 4.6 and I now get much better fuel economy and it does seem to start slightly better but it wasn't really an issue before.

When testing the fuel pressure with the old one, with the ignition on but engine off, it would go up to around 50psi but would a few seconds later drift back down to 35-40. Its a simple test and simple but annoying thing to change.

311evo · #10 10-18-2017, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scourtaud23

I just replaced the fuel filter/pressure regulator on my 4.6 and I now get much better fuel economy and it does seem to start slightly better but it wasn't really an issue before.

When testing the fuel pressure with the old one, with the ignition on but engine off, it would go up to around 50psi but would a few seconds later drift back down to 35-40. Its a simple test and simple but annoying thing to change.

I almost ordered a fuel filter/fpr last night but haven't yet. It should be replaced either way I suppose, I'm not sure when (if ever) it's been changed in the last 196k miles.

I also want to do this test to see if the check valve is holding after I turn the motor off. I'm tempted to just replace the filter and pump...