X5 4.8 integral link stripped thread

[svvg]

Just been replacing very worn rear bushes and control arms and also the rear swing arm bushes. When I removed the bolt which holds the integral link into the wheel carrier a load of swarf came out with the bolt... needless to say the new bolt (I'm replacing all bolts bushes and arms) started to go tight when I went to reinstall everything, and then went loose... and out came the stripped threads from the rear wheel carrier...

Bit worried I may need to replace the rear wheel carrier unless I can remove it and maybe helicoil it??? The bolt which attaches the integral link to the wheel carrier is supposed to be done up to 100 or 105nm...

Grateful for some advice - mate of mine was skeptical that a helicoil would take that torque and has just suggested an insert instead (am waiting to hear back on what an insert is!).

Grateful for any helpful advice!

[andrewwynn]

Id have to see the exact hole. Work involved because I don't think you can do in place but this is the exact problem alumaloy is designed to fix. Fill the hole, drill and tap. Otherwise can you drill straight through and add a nut on the back side with a longer bolt?


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[wpoll]

[QUOTE=svvg;1119440]Grateful for some advice - mate of mine was skeptical that a helicoil would take that torque and has just suggested an insert instead (am waiting to hear back on what an insert is!). [QUOTE]

Insert is probably a Timesert....



++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs,

[svvg]

Thanks both for the above.

The receiving hole on the wheel carrier has a lot of material around it (so can be drilled slightly wider without any worries) - but is probably only an inch (or less) thick - and the bolt comes through the back of it slightly - but not enough, and with no room for a captive nut.

I'll have a look at alumaloy - but the threads need to take 100nm of torque - so not sure if strong enough?

And yep - the insert was a timesert - my friend used it for a stripped spark plug on a 1964 pagoda sl - said it was very nerve wracking, but had no problems - but again quite low torque on spark plugs.

Assume if I remove the carrier I don't need a new wheel bearing at the same time (drive shaft just presses out and slides back in) so just a new hub nut? Was a mission undoing all the old rusted parts and replacing all bushes and the balljoint - so at least dissasembly shlukd be easy - but I was so close to finishing the job!

Thanks again for responses.

[andrewwynn]

Depending on the size of the bolt you can use a much thinner nut as you can use grade 8 steel vs aluminum!

Alumaloy is designed to be strong enough to be on-par with original die cast aluminum drill, tap etc. Some examples they show are replacing heavy duty ear on a large generator.

I'm imagining a bolt going up into the carrier and above there may be only 12mm before the trunk.

Trunk is thin steel so unless something is in the way directly above, body work method (hammer anvil) can make a little room for a thin nut.

With steel, 3 threads hold 80% of the strength of a bolt, no question you can achieve more strength with thin steel nut vs thicker aluminum tap.

Rear wheel bearing held by 4 E torx bolts. The CV axle held in with 12 side 36mm nut. (staked on if still factory).

I think I totally misunderstood what part you were taking about and I now I have a much better idea.

You are taking about the bearing carrier, correct?

I paid under $50 for a replacement bearing with carrier for my wife's x5. If I had one blown out corner on a perfectly functional rear bearing I would use my angle grinder to carefully make a flat shelf big enough for a replacement Etorx bolt slightly longer. The threaded insert would be good for this, install from the outside and don't drill the hole clear through and it will be stronger.

I think that part is steel so pretty amazing the hole blew out I have a feeling it was over torqued in a previous life.

A tip for easy install: (if replacing the bearing so hub is out of the way); cut a slot at the tip of the bolts and you can use an impact screw gun to install from the outside, only the final torque from under the car (two wobble extensions you can remove/install with axle in place). (loosened to make a bit of room for the socket).

To do either the insert or the nut option you will have to remove the hub/bearing since the hub is in the way. (Unless you replace the bearing)

Loosen the axle nut, use a couple wobble extensions to remove the E torx to remove the hub/bearing and you should be able to fix the bearing carrier.

[svvg]

Thanks for this detailed response. It's definitely a hub off job - have asked around and it seems like mTechs and indys helicoil this exact bolt hole - a replacment used hub carrier seems to be around £40 but no idea on integrity of threads on an old unit - And I've just pressed in a newnball joint - so would hope to retain my original part.

[oldskewel]

Just an idea to expand your thinking on this ...

You've got an advantage vs. typical insert applications, in that you have full access and even a little room on the back side.

So if a low profile steel nut won't do it for you (yes, that would be my first hope), and even counter-boring the back side of the hole a little deeper to get a thicker nut does not do it, then ...

Consider drilling out the hole, and putting a bigger bolt (think, for example something like the fill bolt on your transmission) with a thin head in from the back side (tapping the proper threads in the enlarged hole, of course). And you can over-size that bolt as much as you feel like, not limited by the thickness of an insert. Then you can drill and tap that bolt as needed to fit your existing (new) bolt that goes through the integral link.

This adapter bolt will look similar to threaded plumbing fittings adapters when you're done. I don't know what they have over in the UK, but this might be an off-the shelf part, where you just need to drill and tap the outer hole.

It should be the strongest part of your suspension when you're done.

[sandbagger]

put a helicoil in set it with red locktite and call it a day.

you will never worry about that again. Nice thing is the insert is SS so its steel on steel when tightening it, vs steel bolt into Al threads

[svvg]

Managed to get the bastrd apart. Seriously - this is the worst car I've ever worked on. Every bolt is rusted to bggery and I reckon I may need a new subframe in a few years time. I think I'll go with an insert and it should be fine, so thanks for thoughts. I did the passenger side today - and again some of the threads for the integral link into the hub had started to separate when the old bolt came out - scary having steel bolts into alloy - but the new bolt went nice and tight and then torqued up to 105nm.

Managed to use a three legged puller to push the axle out of the hub, and eventually got the handbrake cable out.... will eventually get all my jobs done on this car!

[andrewwynn]

Where is your car located? I have very little rust on either mine or wife's 01. The only real rust is on the edge of the serpintine belt pulleys.

I discovered last time I put axle through hub it was 5 or 10 times more difficult if the hub was locked in place first. For the rear means loose bolts on the bearing carrier for the front it means loose bolts on the shock mount. Being able to remove the fight of the rubber boot of the CV. I couldn't get the axle through far enough to start the axle nut. I disconnected the strut and the axle popped the through all by itself!


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