Calling all e70 4.8l x5er's I can't figure this trouble code

[andrewwynn]

I have had similar issues caused from the cam shaft sensor but the main difference was I didn't need to clear codes to get out of limp home mode. Limp home kicked on with codes that match a bad coil but the codes you show didn't match. Do you have to clear codes to get the engine to run nice or will a restart get the engine to run nicely? One of your codes came up as bad speed reading. I think that there is a similar sensor to the cam shaft sensor on the transmission output. That could have failed and cause your grief. (I'm recalling from memory when I researched my cam shaft sensor failures)


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[upallnight]

Originally Posted by e70jane

Ok, so all e70 x5's have nox sensors in them because they are all direct injection, no? Thanks for the advice on having the stealer check out the problem for me, as I'm sure it's worth the $80, but sometimes you hear about them horror stories on changing parts after parts and still the unsolved mystery.

If the car is a low mileage car, some time a dealer will split some of the cost of the repair as part of the Goodwill service of BMW. With 49k I would ask the dealer about the Goodwill Service, like any dealer service he will just bill BMW USA for the service.

[e70jane]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I have had similar issues caused from the cam shaft sensor but the main difference was I didn't need to clear codes to get out of limp home mode. Limp home kicked on with codes that match a bad coil but the codes you show didn't match. Do you have to clear codes to get the engine to run nice or will a restart get the engine to run nicely? One of your codes came up as bad speed reading. I think that there is a similar sensor to the cam shaft sensor on the transmission output. That could have failed and cause your grief. (I'm recalling from memory when I researched my cam shaft sensor failures)


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Andrew, when I clear the codes, it runs fine.

And I'm so sorry for all the questions but I wanted to ask your opinion on one more thing, please. When I took apart the engine covers I remember the part on driver side, circled in purple, had no hose attached to the nipple. What exactly is this part? And if I recall even further, the passenger side of the v8 is the same without a hose attached to the nipple. I wonder could this be the culprit?

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by e70jane

Andrew, when I clear the codes, it runs fine.

And I'm so sorry for all the questions but I wanted to ask your opinion on one more thing, please. When I took apart the engine covers I remember the part on driver side, circled in purple, had no hose attached to the nipple. What exactly is this part? And if I recall even further, the passenger side of the v8 is the same without a hose attached to the nipple. I wonder could this be the culprit?

Those are part of the CCV system for your car. The rubber membrane underneath the cap will sometime tear and allow a vacuum leak.

Here's a video on replacing it. It's a fairly easy reapir by a DIYer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTptfhPJBOs

[andrewwynn]

Just watched that diy repair. I have the i6 M54 nothing remotely similar. That part will cause rough running for sure if defective and easy DIY. I'm not sure if disassembly is destructive or you can take apart to examine.

The video shows some models don't have a tube attached but they share a common part so some engines have an orphan tube connection.


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[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by e70jane;

Andrew, when I clear the codes, it runs fine.
?

How long will it last? It sounded like only a couple miles but later it sounded like only when high ambient temperature

[e70jane]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

How long will it last? It sounded like only a couple miles but later it sounded like only when high ambient temperature

My experience is maybe within 15 miles of driving after clearing the code, but it seems to happen quicker each time the temperature becomes warm. The x5 is the family ride so it's mostly operated during the weekends only. I think I will try to locate the canister purge valve and see if there's a problem there.

[andrewwynn]

I'm unaware of any such valve. There is a roll over valve to seal the gas vent in case of tipping over I suppose you could have a problem If the valve stuck and as you drive you draw a vaccum on the fuel tank. You can test that theory: drive 10 minutes and go open the gas cap. Big vaccum break? Drive without cap tight. The emissions may MIL (SES/ check engine) but it won't limp mode for that. Search any code that pops up.

Verify you have proper fuel delivery. Easiest way is to drive down to empty. If fuel delivery is weak you will not get down to single digits to empty. If it's working properly you can get to 10-15 miles past zero DTE


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[upallnight]

Originally Posted by e70jane

Andrew, when I clear the codes, it runs fine.

And I'm so sorry for all the questions but I wanted to ask your opinion on one more thing, please. When I took apart the engine covers I remember the part on driver side, circled in purple, had no hose attached to the nipple. What exactly is this part? And if I recall even further, the passenger side of the v8 is the same without a hose attached to the nipple. I wonder could this be the culprit?

Sounds like the computer is shutting down an injector(s) when the code is set and clearing the code just tells the computer that there are no trouble code(s), so the computer continue to send signals to the injector(s) to fire. The computer might detect a misfire in the cylinders that it why it is not sending a signal to the injector. With no signal to the injector, no gas is being injected into the cylinder and with no gas to burn, the cylinder is basically dead.

If you can view real data, I would look at the long and short term fuel trim as well as the maf air flow.

[e70jane]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Sounds like the computer is shutting down an injector(s) when the code is set and clearing the code just tells the computer that there are no trouble code(s), so the computer continue to send signals to the injector(s) to fire. The computer might detect a misfire in the cylinders that it why it is not sending a signal to the injector. With no signal to the injector, no gas is being injected into the cylinder and with no gas to burn, the cylinder is basically dead.

If you can view real data, I would look at the long and short term fuel trim as well as the maf air flow.

These are all great info and suggestions and thank you all again for the continual support. In response to Andrew, isn't there a canister purge valve attached to the charcoal canister?

And response to upallnight, I researched that the maf could also be the culprit, and they say that it could be a bad sensor but yet you could still drive it for a long while. I may just switch that out and see what happens. I'll check the charcoal canister next to see if there are visible cracks or fuel leaks.

Forgot to mention, as I thought about this last night, but I'm waiting for bmw to call me once the airbags and fuel module arrives for a recall fix. I was thinking whether or not the problem may have something to do with this fuel pump module soon to be replaced?