X5 to the arctic circle

[andrewwynn]

I'm curious: is the lock bar even needed? If the door is double locked even the inside door handle does nothing. If the same defeat is used on the outside handle then you can remove that stupid lock bar and the handle will simply "dry fire" as it should.

When my carrier was broken I accidentally locked my key in the car. Driver door was unlocked but that didn't help much.

I happened to have the replacement carrier so I inspected it and determined where I could use a screw driver to push on the cable inside to open the door.


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[scourtaud23]

Nice tip, Thanks for the advice and the pictures. I'll get the wire and do that soon so I never have this issue that seems quite common.

[scourtaud23]

I don't quite get why the red arrow piece is the cause of the grief (but I've never seen one live).

I'm not quite sure about your question. Sorry

[andrewwynn]

The piece marked by the red arrow is the item that is the cause of the part failing.

It moves into a position to block the handle from lifting when the door is locked.

The lubricant gets gummy when cold and the lever stays in the locked position when the door is unlocked.

The door is unlocked but the door HANDLE is locked. The user tugs on the handle and with the leverage in the handle carrier they will snap the weak link in the hinge.

I have some stainless steel "cable ties" that would probably work perfectly for reenforcing the part before it breaks.

(Because they are very thin and will fit through the gap). I'll try to test the theory out on the new one I'm planning to install. It will be a moot point if we can simply remove the part causing the problem

If I get a chance I will test my theory of removing the blocking mechanism and making it behave how it should have in the first place (dry fire disconnect).

That would be the greatest discovery for e53 door handles ever.

[scourtaud23]

This would be very interesting if it could be disabled but I'm wondering if the locking block is the only thing preventing the handle from dry firing or if the locking block is simply there so you don't pull on the link with the latch

Again I'm just thinking, I haven't looked into the system. I will look into what I can find as cable ties to replace the 16ga wire

[Awntchi]

Shovel
Tow rope
Battery starter
LOTS of washer fluid.

The roads are salted in Skandinavia and that creates a nasty, sticky gunk on the windshield that needs constant washing. I have finished a washer tank in 1 hours driving (cars constantly in front on me).

Other than that, just make sure your tires are good and all fluids are able to handle freezing conditions. I wouldn't worry too much about webasto heating, oil pan heat etc...unless you're leaving the cars parked for more than 48 hours. My 4.8is handled -30 for 4 days (parked outdoor) without issues.

The people up north are very helpful also should you need assistance.

Good luck and enjoy your trip!

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[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by scourtaud23;

This would be very interesting if it could be disabled but I'm wondering if the locking block is the only thing preventing the handle from dry firing or if the locking block is simply there so you don't pull on the link with the latch

Again I'm just thinking, I haven't looked into the system. I will look into what I can find as cable ties to replace the 16ga wire

I should know the answer within a couple days. I'm betting that the internals disconnect just like the inside door handle and the outer handle lock was just meant to be a "reminder" that the door is locked.

It will be a grand slam fix if I'm correct.

SODIAL(R) 10 pcs 0.39" x 15.75" Stainless Steel Metal Cable Zip Tie Wrap Exhaust Straps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZHD5CQ..._gAalAb53X2Z4N

Example of the stainless zip tie. The advantage is it will fit through without any modifications to the carrier. I may have had to make a small groove with a file or drill bit for the 16ga wire. The disadvantage of the zip tie is I'm not sure you can get two wraps through so the full force isn't on the retaining clip. If I can locate my stainless straps I can maybe also test this as I will be removing a broken carrier to experiment on.

It's interesting that the spring looks like coincidentally 16ga wire. My repair looks just like the spring.

Oh: the wire I used was from one of those tiny little marking flags like would be used to show where gas or electric comes to a house underground.

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by Awntchi

Shovel
Tow rope
Battery starter
LOTS of washer fluid.

The roads are salted in Skandinavia and that creates a nasty, sticky gunk on the windshield that needs constant washing. I have finished a washer tank in 1 hours driving (cars constantly in front on me).

Other than that, just make sure your tires are good and all fluids are able to handle freezing conditions. I wouldn't worry too much about webasto heating, oil pan heat etc...unless you're leaving the cars parked for more than 48 hours. My 4.8is handled -30 for 4 days (parked outdoor) without issues.

The people up north are very helpful also should you need assistance.

Good luck and enjoy your trip!

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BMW does cold weather testing so there is at least some consideration in the design. I would want my battery to be fairly new and at least have the ratings of the BMW specs. I would make sure the CCV system is in good working order. I would have a great set of jumper cables. I would carry two tow straps. I would have warning lights to put out to move over traffic if there is a problem on the road. I would be sure ABS and traction control is working. My primary focus would on proper tires and options to further improve traction, especially with the 4.6, you have that covered.

[scourtaud23]

Thanks to all for this amazing information, I feel much more relaxed about the car part of the trip.

As for the door carrier, looking at the way the wire seats, I'm thinking the stainless straps might not be seated flat and might not be as effective. I'm going to play chicken since I've got time and wait for you to have finished your testing so I can only take them out once and do all that is needed. Thanks for your efforts trying to understand and solve issues with these car.

As for my 4.6is, its already running snow tires on 18s (the original 20s (or 21, I'm not even sure) were not with the car and don't fit my needs (comfort and ability to go off road). I will change the tires at some point before leaving, probably for nokians, I've ran them on every car from a smart ForTow to a Range Rover and they've always been great.

As for equipment, I'll be adding spotlights to the front and back of the X5, I'm looking into how to mount them without making definitive holes in the bumper. This will be my spring project with my welder to build the mounts.

Standard equipment for the cars as of today :
- Washer fluid
- Jericans of fuel
- Tow rope (elastic)
- Extra lights front and/or Back
- Safety/survival kit
- Extra batteries
- Snow chains
- shovel
- Hand warmers
- Radiator tarp
- Ice scrapers (x2 (shit happens))

Shared equipment :
- battery booster
- battery cables
- land anchor (you never know)
- Non Elastic strap

The list is not final but as worried midland europeans, we're going to go as prepared as possible even though some locals might be happy with a miata all year.

I was wondering, what oil would be recommended in the engine (currently running 5W40)?
I'm guessing gearbox and diff won't allow for lighter oil.

[RFaber]

there is no substitute for good planning, if you are driving in the north (on any continent!) make sure you have supplies to either walk comfortably for a few hours (warm boots /socks / jackets etc) or enough supplies to camp out in your truck for a couple days. food/water etc. Have twice the supplies you think you might need.!! a small lithium battery booster pack is very useful to have as well. as for oil, 5W040 is sufficient, if you really are concerned about viscosity, you can go to 0W-40 but its not that critical, your engine warms up fairly quickly. when you get underway first thing in the morning, start off slowly, the tires may be frozen square! and the rest of the bushings and suspension will be cold and hard. if you have the air levelling suspension, be cautious in using it, as the rubber in the bags is prone to blow out in the cold! use your parking brake cautiously too, as it is prone to freezing up and staying locked on! (don't ask how I know!) If its at all possible, park in an underground parking lot or covered stall!
make certain that the CCV system is in good repair (as stated earlier) it tends to fail catastrophically in winter!! (the mayo freezes solid) other than that take time to enjoy the northern lights they can be spectacular !!!
best of luck with your trek!