HELP: door lock cylinder broken and key fob batter dead

[John Galt]

A few years ago, the battery in my key died and I never fixed it (I've seen the posts on how to replace the battery, I just haven't done it yet).

Today, I go to unlock my car, and the lock cylinder in the door turns freely, so I can't get in my car.

QUESTION: Can the dealer make a new key and program it to the car without being able to get into the car?

If so, then I could just go buy a new key, have them program it and then use the remote to open the doors.

[upallnight]

To program the door to open and unlock with a key, the dealer need to be able to get into the car. To program the chip to start the engine the dealer don't need to get into the car. The chip is program not at the dealer, but at another BMW facilities that has the car EWS info.

If you decide to break a glass to gain entry into the car, I have a Passenger side door glass that I can sell to you.

[andrewwynn]

I don't think the key can be programmed as a remote from outside the car.

Best bet for entry: locksmith trick of bend the door to Jimmy the door with a stiff wire. It will take two wires/rods since when double locked you have to hold down the central lock button for the door handle to unlock the door.

When I get into a locked car this way, the rubber handle off a needle nose pliers usually works great to bend the door without making a mark then use some construction shims to hold the door.

On some cars it's way easier to go *through* the door seal (if it's the big tube style) just a drop of silicone glue to fix the foam after. I can't remember if the x5 door seal is this type.

I just repaired my lock cylinder, you can buy the kit on Amazon for under $10 once you get in the car.

You can also "jump start" your key fob but I don't know if the programming will have stayed. You can poke needles through the fob in exactly the right place to get a battery voltage reading but you could apply voltage to get power to the fob if the battery is dead.

The problem is it's far more likely a solder joint is broken then dead battery but it's worth a shot.

[andrewwynn]

My Frankenkey!

Those exact placement of pins will get you to vBat. Pos left neg right.

I'm glad this q came up! My key fob hasn't been working and when I just measured mine it was zero volts and wouldn't take a charge!

Took apart to discover the battery terminal pulled off the battery!

Fixed that issue and vBat read 2.55v. Low but not dead.






Pumping 25mA into the battery to charge it up a bit so hopefully I can reprogram the sucker to operate my locks again. It's been getting very old using only the key to get in and out of my car.


Inside the key


These are the exact positions of the probes. Red & Black for positive and negative.

If the key reads over about 2.7v and doesn't operate there are solder joint issues. If it reads below 2v it's irreparably damaged but you could feed 3v through some pins like I'm doing right now to charge the key. If the bat is shot you will need to hold the "jumper cables" while operating the key. If the programming is good still it should open the car.

Side note: when I first got my car, jump starting the key with 3v would let it operate but it wouldn't work even an hour later. I literally applied 3.2v for a s second then could walk out to my car and it worked. A few times then stopped.

It was bad solder joints. I reflowed the joints and both my keys worked until I lost my primary key and this one stopped working half a year ago I just didn't use it (spare key) so never looked into why it didn't work until now.

If it works right off the bat I owe somebody a beer just for getting me to open up my key and find the battery terminal (weld) broken off.

[upallnight]

It's ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!

[andrewwynn]

Update: I had to reprogram the key but holy crap my fob works again! After half hour charging at 20-30mA the battery read 3.2 right after removing from the charger. I'll measure after a long drive and overnight to see how it holds. (so you can have a reference voltage).

What music to my ears to hear the door locks clunk after not working for four months! I didn't want to risk damaging my only key and planned to open this one up only after I buy my replacement.

Since my fob works again I can now verify the procedure to open double locked doors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sHCqodyipI

Funny I forgot I would set off the alarm when I opened the door. Captured real time on the video.

You may set off the alarm mid way through lock smith entry but I think the motion sensors are thermal so hopeful the small rods used to push the central lock button and pull the door handle won't register and you won't set off the alarm until you open the door.

Ok: it just got much easier!

With the central lock pressed it activated the trunk release. As odd as it seems it should be easier to press the two buttons and jump in the trunk than pull the door handle although you could have an "L" shape rod to twist to push the door handle. I think you only need to do it once to unlock then pull from outside to open.

[John Galt]

Update: the locksmith opened the car by wedging the door open and using a rod to hit the rear hatch release.

Now I have to figure out if I want to fix this car or part it out.

[upallnight]

10 bucks and you can get the lock cylinder repair kit. Why part it out if it still drive?

[John Galt]

Originally Posted by upallnight

10 bucks and you can get the lock cylinder repair kit. Why part it out if it still drive?

Where can I get the cylinder repair kit?

There are more than 10 other things wrong with the car (broken window regulator, broken motor mount, radio non-functional, etc.), so I'm more inclined to move on to another car.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by John Galt

Where can I get the cylinder repair kit?

There are more than 10 other things wrong with the car (broken window regulator, broken motor mount, radio non-functional, etc.), so I'm more inclined to move on to another car.

https://www.amazon.com/Bross-BDP21FB...+repair+kit+x5