WDS application

[sneary]

Hey everyone can someone give some insight on the settings needed to run the wds program on here. I get it to load up on the left side and chose what I want to see but the diagram fails to load on right side suggestions pleeeeeeease

[sneary]

answered my own question. Thanks for everyones help! LOL

[sneary]

on a side note. i have a 03 4.6. no start no crank no communication. new starter new battery and new ignition switch. six weeks ago dealer replaced fuse f105 and everything was up and running. now this fuse has blown again and when i turn key to accessory everything powers up normally but once i try to start the f105 fuse blows. any suggestions?????

[wpoll]

Not sure on your F105 problem but the new newtis.info is easier to access and use than WDS - but I actually prefer WDS.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e53-x5-4.6is-sav/

Looking at F105 now.. :-)

[sneary]

ok sweet thanks. also i should add the current key i use is about 4 months old

[wpoll]

Looks like F105 is one of the main feeds into the IVM, where power is distributed to many other circuits. It may take a bit of sleuthing to track down what is blowing the fuse.

[sneary]

yeah i saw that as well but what makes it even more confusing is when i look up part (IVM) it shows its not in the 03 4.6 lol so idk

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by sneary

yeah i saw that as well but what makes it even more confusing is when i look up part (IVM) it shows its not in the 03 4.6 lol so idk

Have you checked all the down-stream fuses too? Most items that are powered via F105 then have their own sub-fuse, so if a module is faulty, like an injector etc. then it would normally blow it's own (lower rated) fuse and not F105.

For 105 to blow there is either a large fault current to a path not protected by a sub-fuse (and there's very few of those), an aggregate current generated by multiple modules (like multiple failing modules!) or a chaffed wire with a short to ground.

I would have gone straight to my standby answer for a fault like this and said ignition switch but that's a new part. Maybe check around the wiring loom near the switch for a chaffed wire?

[sneary]

that was my first suspicion on ignition switch so replaced even though tests came out good but original part and i have 291000 on dash now lol i checked all fuses in glove box as well as ones behind fuse panel. all were good minus a heated steering wheel which i dont have that option so no power going to that and the fuse for abs dcs showed no power going to but believe that turns on once vehicle is running. visually that fuse look good. checked fuses in back by right tail light...all were good. still gotta check fuses under hood. what would you think about the 200 amp fuse in back by air suspension. i think if that fuse was blown i dont think id have power at all correct?

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by sneary

... what would you think about the 200 amp fuse in back by air suspension. i think if that fuse was blown i dont think id have power at all correct?

F200, in the main fuse bank above the battery? Yeah, if that was popped, you'd have zero power to a lot of the car.

It's upstream of F105, feeding F105, so your fault current is running through F105 but (good news), your fault current is less than 200 amps (but more than 60 amps).

Actually, most fuses have a fuse rating of something like 2x the stated current, i.e. it takes 120 amps to blow a 60 amp fuse. A 60A fuse can safely carry 60A continuously but it take quite a bit more to blow it.

So you have a BIG current sink somewhere. And I'm guessing that 60A fuses are too expensive to just keep disconnecting stuff until it stops blowing.. so we'll need to get a bit smarter on fault finding here... Putting my thinking cap on...