WDS application

[sneary]

Thanks for all your input I really appreciate it. Electrical is not my forte. Whats your thoughts on the main dme relay being bad? Ill have to wait to tomorrow during daylight to diagnose. I wish it was as easy as it just being the ivm being bad.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by sneary

Whats your thoughts on the main dme relay being bad? Ill have to wait to tomorrow during daylight to diagnose. I wish it was as easy as it just being the ivm being bad.

I can't see this being the DME relay (K6300) - although I suppose a catastrophic internal fault might cause problems. It's pretty unlikely though, as the most likely fault (an internal short) would likely be present at all times, not just when you try to start the car. The fact that the fuse blows when the relay activates indicates that the relay is in fact most likely working correctly.

The DME relay is however possibly connecting the faulty module to F105 when the relay activates, causing F105 to blow. Because of this, removing the DME relay from it's socket may well remove the overload problem but not because the DME is fault (although that is possible) but because removing the DME isolates the fault from F105.

Think of it like water - there is a big leak. Removing the DME connection (a tap in this analogy) stops the leak but only because it stops water flowing down some paths TO the leak.

[sneary]

All fuses under the hood came out good. What would you think of a bad ground off the starter? Would that cause that fuse to blow?

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by sneary

All fuses under the hood came out good. What would you think of a bad ground off the starter? Would that cause that fuse to blow?

Not likely - the current for the starter isn't via F105 (or any fuse) so there's no path...

So KOEO (key on, engine off - aka KL-30) doesn't blow F105 but attempting to start it (KL-50) does? Sounds like maybe the starter solenoid is bad. Let me trace that circuit out...

P.S. This is from QSilver7...

"KL" in bimmerspeak refers to the ignition "terminal" positions. For many, the terms "run" & "accessory" still raises questions...because it doesn't plainly explain which ignition positions they are for those that don't refer to their owners manual for better clarification.

Below is some simple explanation:

• KL 0 = OFF (ignition off position)
• KL R = ignition position 1 ("run" - some electonics & modules are powered up)
• KL 15 = ignition position 2 ("accessory" - all electronics & modules re powered)
• KL 30 = ignition position 3 (where the ignition defauts after starting the engine)
• KL 50 = ignition start position

[sneary]

Correct KL 50 is when the fuse blows.

[wpoll]

OK, you may be onto something here - needs more checking but there is a circuit to the starter solenoid via F105.

Have a look at this..

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...iliser/kP851Nc

F105 is at the top right and there's a path via the immobiliser (A146) and the start relay (K6324) to the starter assembly (M6510).

I would imagine a faulty starter solenoid would cause your fault.

AND you can easily test this by pulling the start relay (K6324) which will then isolate the starter solenoid and should not affect anything else. Car won't turn over but fuse should not blow either. If it DOES blow, then the fault has to be somewhere else - possibly in the immobiliser (A146)?

The start relay (K6324) is here...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...is-sav/UyBTGcO

[sneary]

Update. Finally was able to tinker more on this mess. So when you pull the starter relay out the fuse no longer blows. So gotta be a starter issue. Possibly a frayed wire going to the starter?

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by sneary

Update. Finally was able to tinker more on this mess. So when you pull the starter relay out the fuse no longer blows. So gotta be a starter issue. Possibly a frayed wire going to the starter?

Phew - at least you have isolated the area where the fault exists.

Yeah, you'll have to check the wiring from the start relay all the way down to the starter motor assembly. I call it an assembly as it's both a starter motor and the contactor (solenoid). One quick test would be to unplug the start relay and the start relay connection to the starter motor assembly at X6510 (on the back of the starter motor assembly) and then do a continuity check to ground on that wire, using a multi-meter. If you measure a short to ground on the wire, then the fault is in the wiring. If not, the fault has to be in the starter motor assembly.

HTH...

[wpoll]

Actually, looking at the images on this page...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...unting/AXDznpv

These images shows that "X6510" isn't actually a plug, it's a bolt-on connection.



Not hard to undo though.

I wonder if something has fallen down into the area and gotten wedged against one of the connections...!?

[sneary]

Made a appointment with the place that did my starter six weeks ago. Since its concerning that id prefer for them to cover their mistake or warranty the bad starter if thats the case. Would have changed it myself but once winter hits I no longer enjoy laying outside wrenching on cars. If i had a garage it would be a different story lol. Cross my fingers they do the right thing. I will jack it up before hand amd look for a loose connection or something wedged in there like you said before it is towed there. Should be interesting on them towing cause its in a parking garage and the height is only 7 10 so they might have to drag to top floor on dollys and then put on flat bed idk lol