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  #21  
Old 01-24-2018, 03:10 PM
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Cool Oh Yea!

Yup, it is that easy. It took a couple of blanks before I could make a key that would work in both the door and the ignition, so buy some blanks without the electronics, they are cheaper to ruin. The programming tool consists of two parts, the box you see in the picture plugs into your computer and programs the key remote itself. You just lay the key in the hole in the box and follow the software. The tool also includes a cable and connectors to program the chip in the security module. In a separate operation you have to remove the security module, open it up and place a special clamp type connector around the memory chip. Doing it this way gives you the ability to remove the 10 key limit that BMW says applies. Since you are actually flashing the security PROM directly you can reprogram key positions already used in memory instead of just adding new keys. Pretty Cool Huh?

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  #22  
Old 01-24-2018, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AceEngineer View Post
... In a separate operation you have to remove the security module, open it up and place a special clamp type connector around the memory chip...
Great find, overall. But that last step you mention probably kills it for most people. I'll do almost anything to my cars, but considering the risk in that step (I'd not want to brick my car), and the effort vs. the cost of just buying from BMW (the cheap way, as I detailed earlier), I'd take that route. But great that you are able to do it yourself.
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  #23  
Old 01-24-2018, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
Great find, overall. But that last step you mention probably kills it for most people. I'll do almost anything to my cars, but considering the risk in that step (I'd not want to brick my car), and the effort vs. the cost of just buying from BMW (the cheap way, as I detailed earlier), I'd take that route. But great that you are able to do it yourself.
Plus you need to remove the coating on that chip so the tool makes proper contact with the pins. Then you need to reapply the coating or hope for the best. It is located in a dry environment under the dash but BMW coated it for a reason and I won't argue their reasoning. 2:30 through 4:00 on the video below.

https://youtu.be/AJ6enooPkYs
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  #24  
Old 01-24-2018, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
Plus you need to remove the coating on that chip so the tool makes proper contact with the pins. Then you need to reapply the coating or hope for the best. It is located in a dry environment under the dash but BMW coated it for a reason and I won't argue their reasoning. 2:30 through 4:00 on the video below.

https://youtu.be/AJ6enooPkYs
Yeah, nah!

That's no way to handle the module board or clean off a coating! A screwdriver!!?? ! Holy cow... I wonder how many cars he's bricked...?
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  #25  
Old 01-24-2018, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
Plus you need to remove the coating on that chip so the tool makes proper contact with the pins. Then you need to reapply the coating or hope for the best. It is located in a dry environment under the dash but BMW coated it for a reason and I won't argue their reasoning. 2:30 through 4:00 on the video below.

https://youtu.be/AJ6enooPkYs
This is why i never ordered the key programmer. Too much work for the job. Some of them apparently can make a copy of the chip and reprogram another key with the same information but that just seems too good to be true, and ive yet to seen it done.

Alternatively, i have an original key, and a chinese diamond as my spare on one key ring at home, and my main keys consist of the plastic key, with a chinese diamond which i cut the blade off of. The chinese diamonds can be programmed to open and close the car, while the plastic key lets me start the car. Same idea with the spare at home, the original key lets me start the car and the chinese copy allows me to open/close doors. Since the battery issue is strictly a lock/unlock issue, my workaround does the job fine, especially @ $5 per diamond on ebay...
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  #26  
Old 02-25-2019, 03:26 AM
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Question for the key guru...

- 2004 X3 2.5i with 85K miles with one main key fob and one plastic key.

- Question re plastic key: what if I make another key for let's say $10-$20 or so (metal key cut by local locksmith WITHOUT chip) and carry the "dummy" metal key ALWAYS in the same key chain as the plastic key. Can I start the engine with the METAL key while the plastic key is dangling in the key chain? In other words, how close does the RFID chip have to be near the antenna ring?
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  #27  
Old 02-25-2019, 07:29 AM
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This is not OEM and all you need is to get it programmed.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F303071179084
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  #28  
Old 02-25-2019, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mr_robot View Post
This is not OEM and all you need is to get it programmed.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F303071179084
Just an FYI...know your market and what frequency your key needs to transmit for FZV & DWA operations.

Even if you purchased the AK90 and retrieved the ISN (individual serial number) that is already written to your DME & EWS control module...the key you linked to still has a problem. It is on the 433 MHz frequency which means that it is only designed to lock/unlock & arm/disarm (FZV/DWA) cars for the European and Asian markets. Trying to program the linked remote key to perform FZV & DWA operations on a BMW designed for the North American market is going to be a big fail.

As mentioned many times before...the remote key does three things:
  1. EWS (immobilizing system)
  2. FZV (central locking)
  3. DWA (anti-theft alarm siren system)
The FZV & DWA feature of the remote key transmits a radio frequency to the aerial embedded in the rear window (or rear left window on the Tourings and SAVs) and uses either a 315 MHz or 433 Mhz radio frequency:
  • 315 MHz = North America, Australia
  • 433 MHz = Europe, Asia
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  #29  
Old 02-25-2019, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Question for the key guru...

- Question re plastic key: what if I make another key for let's say $10-$20 or so (metal key cut by local locksmith WITHOUT chip) and carry the "dummy" metal key ALWAYS in the same key chain as the plastic key. Can I start the engine with the METAL key while the plastic key is dangling in the key chain? In other words, how close does the RFID chip have to be near the antenna ring?
I'm not claiming to be the key guru (by any measure) ....but yes, many BMW oweners have done something similar by programming a used remote fob purchased on eBay (or the likes)...then programming that remote to their car for lock/unlock purposes...then keeping an official BMW key that has the correct ews transponder w/correct ISN on the same key chain. The correct ews transponder allows starting of the car, and the used remote fob allows keyless entry (lock/unlock & arm/disarm) of the car.

BTW CN90, which type of key blade do you have (assuming this is for your X5)? Is it the type that has the cut inset into the blade (like the key on the LEFT in pic below )?

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Last edited by Qsilver7; 02-25-2019 at 08:37 PM.
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  #30  
Old 02-26-2019, 09:50 AM
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I'll add my two cents since (lol) i've been around the horn with the key situation recently.

I was reticent to scrape the contacts on the EWS at first too until I got it out and started trying to remove the coating. First off, the legs where that chip is soldered to the board are REMARKABLY robust both mechanically and chemically. you HAVE to use something mechanical to get that coating off and you can't be shy about it. Acetone did nothing. Mineral spirits did nothing. The metal legs are actually so thick, that a screwdriver is barely enough and it hardly made a 'dent'. you DO need to be careful around the PCB but I didn't find that to be super tedious. it was about like the guy in the video. The coating can always be reapplied (clear nail polish or something), but frankly, i've seen many electrical parts of lesser ilk in much harsher locations on a BMW.

Once the EWS is out, programming it is pretty easy. The AK90 unit works fine and was easy to install on my Win 7 BMW laptop. In my case, keeping that plug in good contact with the freshly scraped board took some effort and getting the plug oriented correctly was a little confusing even with the 'dot' which is supposedly marked on the plug. and the software is not the greatest. you just have to follow one of the online videos precisely. overall difficulty was no more than a 4 on scale to 10 though. Getting the EWS out of the car is probably more of a PITA than all the rest of it. any time you are messing with BMW interior bits, there's the chance of breakage, misalignment, rattles etc upon reinstall.

I also ordered the same key cutter as AceEngineer but unfortunately, I was never successful with it. Actually, I can cut a key consistently which will open the door, but will not turn the ignition. and I have no idea why. There's a skill factor involved and I probably need to just order a few more blanks. i've also heard that it helps to upgrade to titanium or tungsten carbide bits and that certain key blanks are a lot higher quality than others.

I finally had my newly programmed key professionally cut and the ones I cut look exactly the same and measured identically with my micrometer. I honestly believe that my particular key has a couple of VERY subtle curves in the laser channel which I have to improve. I am comparing it to the keys for my kid's car, which I haven't tried to copy.

So if you have need of more than one key, I'd suggest looking into this route if you enjoy this type of thing. In my case, I needed 4 keys....two for neighbors on the left and right of us, one for me and one for my kid.

I found a guy in town who will laser cut keys (on a machine almost identical to mine) for $30 though so now, learning to cut my own is just lagniappe. He's the one who said just get the upgraded bits. I ordered them and will tackle this again when the weather improves.

My favorite part though was getting the new FLIP key programmed. I love that thing. I can't get it to work with the windows and sunroof but damn if I don't love fiddling with it popping it open and closed, lol! Also interesting is that it is a few milliseconds slower to issue its commands than the stock key. There is a tiny delay from when you press the button to when the door unlocks. Seriously just a split second. But it's worked great for months now and the housing is crazy durable. Battery is replaceable as well.



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