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  #11  
Old 02-10-2018, 01:28 AM
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I swapped the sides the sensor was on, the mounting hole was not as tight as the pass side. I put some tape around the points and it tightened up the fit. No more code.
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2018, 01:38 AM
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Noice. A little deja v for me. No guarantee it will work forever but it's logical


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  #13  
Old 08-22-2018, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Has the CV axle ever been changed? If it had, OE or some cheap crappy eBay or Amazon parts? If you didn't get an OE axle there's your problem.
Please do tell more...How can they affect?
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2018, 04:44 PM
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The only thing I could see is if slop in the joint would allow a resonance to set up and let a wheel turn at an inconstant speed. The bearing is where the sensor ring is and I would not expect a crappy CV joint to affect the speed sensor because even a completely worn out CV joint (where you could feel the slop at idle shaking the car) never caused a sensor error. The speed will be averaged out by the fact the wheel is moving along the ground at the average speed of the entire car.
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  #15  
Old 08-22-2018, 04:46 PM
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I had errors as mentioned when sensor was fairly snug but eliminated with Teflon tape. I never had to drill out the broken screw. It's been press fit for about 20,000 miles


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  #16  
Old 08-23-2018, 08:33 AM
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[QUOTE=brucemillar;1127536]Did you have to drill out the old sensor? I had a similar issue (trifeca and air gap) on my older 5 Series. It turned out that in drilling out the old sensor I had scratched the surface of the wheel bearing/reluctor ring. A tiny almost unnoticeable scratch, but that was the cause. The cure was a new wheel bearing. I have also read, of others "adjusting the air gap" by inserting thin washers to raise the sensor. That may be worth a try before opening your wallet to more abuse.

Did you ever do a live data test to find out if the ABS sensor was sending speed (or any speed) information back to the computer? I have the air-gap code, after having changed the CV axle (and banging hard). The ABS sensors are clocking all 4 wheels at the exact same speed. So if it was a reluctor ring issue, wouldn't I get either different or no speed? I also get no DSC signal at transfer case.
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  #17  
Old 08-23-2018, 05:54 PM
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Okay. I gave up and took the car to a highly recommended BMW INDEPENDENT.

They let me watch as they hooked it up to their computer:

Three faults. Only two showing in the computer.

1) front N/S ride height implausible value. Fitted new sensor. This immediately threw up the next error:

2) rear N/S ride height implausible value. Fitted new rear sensor. Car the self levelled itself. Bingo sorted? No.

3) spraying the air bags with washing up liquid revealed a tiny leak in the front N/S bag. New bag fitted.

The car has now been error free for three weeks and the suspension is working as designed.

This was a very expensive lesson. Had I known at the start (hindsight is great) I would have fitted Bilstein Coilovers and been done with it.

My icarsoft is hopeless as it cannot detect the twin axle suspension despite claiming it can. Icarsoft refuse to help out (they Dialer into it and say its not a clone)

Thank you all for your help.


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  #18  
Old 08-23-2018, 10:12 PM
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And this was creating a Trifecta that affected your ABS module? Weird.
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  #19  
Old 10-31-2019, 02:39 PM
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Hi everyone, hopefully people check here and have some insight as to what straw to draw next? I got the trifector lights on and a wheel speed sensor error code when using a Creator C310. It is the front left. The old sensor showed 0's when driving. I replaced it with a Febi Bilstein 36809 aka 34526771704 to BMW. The tri lights now stay off till I start driving when according to my scanner the numbers fluctuate on the front left. I tried the teflon tape, cleaning around the area to get it to work with no prevail. Any helpful ideas would be greatly appreciated with this gremlin. (solved see post #26)

Last edited by friedman; 11-01-2019 at 11:59 PM.
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  #20  
Old 10-31-2019, 06:22 PM
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So the typical reason for intermittent wheel sensor is rust on the sensor ring.

Unfortunately it's quite difficult to deep clean (usually involves removing the CV axle) but I would try this:

Lift both front wheels so you can turn the wheel: remove the sensor and use long cotton swabs with cleaning agent while turning the wheel (it will be hard to turn the rotor solo but you can clamp a breaker bar into two lug bolts to create a crank: put a deep well socket on the breaker bar for a handle)

If you get a fair amount of rust out of the sensor ring it's a good chance that was the problem.

If you don't, sadly the next most likely problem is the abs module itself: the welded wires inside tend to break. When they do they usually still touch some of the time giving intermittent readings. There are services for $150-250 to fix this problem.
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