New X5 guy

[FastEddie313]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Rear control arms will cause vibrations at speed. Did you say your cel was MAF related?


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It's more of a slight steering wheel vibration that shows itself mostly around 62-68 MPH and also makes it a little skiddish at speeds over 75 or so, touchy steering, but gets smoother the faster you go, 80-90 mph..
It's not terrible by any means but I need this thing to be a highway monster, luxury GT cruiser, that will fly effortlesly down the road at 80 MPH all day long, so it needs tweaked somewhere..
Steering wheel is to the right slightly at speed and a very slight bias to drift to the right if you let go of the wheel..
I just need to get confident my remaining unreplaced suspension components are good and have it aligned..



Yeah I think this is a MAF code of some sort.. I haven't learned this error code language yet..


Error Sek. air mass meter <<<<!!! Error accurances: 1 Logistic counter : 40
Error accure 1st time at:
TCO_ST 28.95 Grad C TIA_ST 28.95 Grad C N_32 1024.00 rpm MAF 245.12 mg/stk aufgetreten vor (rel. BZ) 0.70 h
--- --- --- Error Sek. air mass meter Error to relevant Error debounce Error currently available stat. Error Error code: 5E 78 01 28 67 67 20 2D 45 A2


What does that mean exactly?
When I clear that code the CEL goes away and doesn't come back for 3 days or so, throws that code again when the CEL comes back on..

It must be something very slight/minor IMO for it to take so long to throw the code again.. IDK

[andrewwynn]

If the shaky comes n goes and do this maneuver: slow shift from left to right to left in your lane: if you feel "indiffeence" wobble right as the wheels go past dead center almost positive ID on the lower rear front control arms.

Another near positive ID is a moderate braking at about 40-50 mph. If you feel a shudder in the wheel.

Both of those symptoms were very obvious pre replacement of wife's lower rear control arms (front).

She STILL needs the thrust bushings replaced but the geometry seems to be self centering and doesn't seem to affect alignment based on zero tire wear after 9 months of driving with worn thrust bushings.

(I screwed some large lag bolts at an angle through the rubber and it "worked too well" (that I didn't bother replacing the bushings for most of a year). I've heard that a good urethane adhesive will also do the trick..


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[e39_touring]

Originally Posted by FastEddie313

Yeah I think this is a MAF code of some sort.. I haven't learned this error code language yet..


Error Sek. air mass meter <<<<!!! Error accurances: 1 Logistic counter : 40
Error accure 1st time at:
TCO_ST 28.95 Grad C TIA_ST 28.95 Grad C N_32 1024.00 rpm MAF 245.12 mg/stk aufgetreten vor (rel. BZ) 0.70 h
--- --- --- Error Sek. air mass meter Error to relevant Error debounce Error currently available stat. Error Error code: 5E 78 01 28 67 67 20 2D 45 A2


What does that mean exactly?
When I clear that code the CEL goes away and doesn't come back for 3 days or so, throws that code again when the CEL comes back on..

It must be something very slight/minor IMO for it to take so long to throw the code again.. IDK

Welcome to the forum! Your sek air mass meter code is the little maf for the air injection (emissions) system.

See part #9
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

It measures that the electric air pump is able to overcome the spring in valve (part 14 in the diagram).

This system only comes into play during a cold start, and the car will run just fine with it not working. Since it's emissions-related, it sets the CEL. Been there, done that!

[FastEddie313]

Originally Posted by e39_touring

Welcome to the forum! Your sek air mass meter code is the little maf for the air injection (emissions) system.

See part #9
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

It measures that the electric air pump is able to overcome the spring in valve (part 14 in the diagram).

This system only comes into play during a cold start, and the car will run just fine with it not working. Since it's emissions-related, it sets the CEL. Been there, done that!

Awesome man thanks a lot!!

Now I'll have to figure out what to do about it..
See if I can test the sensor, pump, filter, valve etc. and find out what part isn't working..

[FastEddie313]

This looks about right..
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ts_Testing.htm

[andrewwynn]

The SAP can be refurbished depending on the problem. It will power on for about 90 seconds every cold start.

My wife's has I'm suspecting a worn bushing so the blades are slightly touching the housing it makes quite a racket but I clearly know when it's working


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[e39_touring]

Originally Posted by FastEddie313

Awesome man thanks a lot!!

Now I'll have to figure out what to do about it..
See if I can test the sensor, pump, filter, valve etc. and find out what part isn't working..

The test on yours is pretty simple. Keep in mind that you have the later system without the vacuum solenoid that a lot of other articles show.

Basically, remove the valve and blow through it. If you can, it's OK. Next start the engine from cold with the hose still disconnected from the valve. The pump should come on and make a smooth whirring sound while a rush of air comes out of the hose going to the valve. If yes, that probably means your pump is OK. The last piece is that small MAF sensor & its filter. With INPA or the like, you can activate the pump and view the airflow values from that sensor. If it's burned out or the filter is 100% blocked (unlikely), you'll get no registered airflow from the MAF. On mine, the MAF itself was the culprit.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by FastEddie313

It's more of a slight steering wheel vibration that shows itself mostly around 62-68 MPH and also makes it a little skiddish at speeds over 75 or so, touchy steering, but gets smoother the faster you go, 80-90 mph..
It's not terrible by any means but I need this thing to be a highway monster, luxury GT cruiser, that will fly effortlesly down the road at 80 MPH all day long, so it needs tweaked somewhere..
Steering wheel is to the right slightly at speed and a very slight bias to drift to the right if you let go of the wheel..
I just need to get confident my remaining unreplaced suspension components are good and have it aligned..



Yeah I think this is a MAF code of some sort.. I haven't learned this error code language yet..


Error Sek. air mass meter <<<<!!! Error accurances: 1 Logistic counter : 40
Error accure 1st time at:
TCO_ST 28.95 Grad C TIA_ST 28.95 Grad C N_32 1024.00 rpm MAF 245.12 mg/stk aufgetreten vor (rel. BZ) 0.70 h
--- --- --- Error Sek. air mass meter Error to relevant Error debounce Error currently available stat. Error Error code: 5E 78 01 28 67 67 20 2D 45 A2


What does that mean exactly?
When I clear that code the CEL goes away and doesn't come back for 3 days or so, throws that code again when the CEL comes back on..

It must be something very slight/minor IMO for it to take so long to throw the code again.. IDK

It would help if you inform everyone what type of scanner you used to get the code. Since you didn't list a P code we can assume that is is not a generic OBD II scanner.

If you wanted a winter car that can survive short trips and sub-zero temp than an E53 with the 3.0 engine is not the car. Just do a search for frozen CCV and hydro-locked engine. A new member just bought an X5 for 10 grand and hydro-locked the engine. It will cost him $5 grand to have a used engine installed. He was asking if the car is worth $15 grands.

[FastEddie313]

Originally Posted by upallnight

It would help if you inform everyone what type of scanner you used to get the code. Since you didn't list a P code we can assume that is is not a generic OBD II scanner.

Right.. It was INPA..

Originally Posted by upallnight

If you wanted a winter car that can survive short trips and sub-zero temp than an E53 with the 3.0 engine is not the car. Just do a search for frozen CCV and hydro-locked engine. A new member just bought an X5 for 10 grand and hydro-locked the engine. It will cost him $5 grand to have a used engine installed. He was asking if the car is worth $15 grands.

Heh, that's pretty much exactly what I bought the X5 for.. Winter, and a lot of short trips to town and back..
Sub 0 F temps check.. All of the above..
UGH.

I'm seeing a lot of youtube videos about deleting the ccv valve.. ??
Good plan?

Delete the airpump stuff too? I have no emissions laws here..

What to do?

[FastEddie313]

So pretty much take this CCV thing..

Replace it with one of these things.. (have one)


And plug off the "vacuum hose vacuum suction" line in the pic?

would I still need a check valve to the dipstick drain port and/or a PCV valve between the head and the AOS?


I bought this thing knowing it was going to need a lot of my attention at first so yeah..

Good news is I found my 6 disk changer to work perfectly well today..

Any other reasons this X5 isn't going to make for a good tundra transport?
Coming to you from the snowbelt of the northeastern part of Michigans lower penninsula, currently 21 degrees F with a low of 7 tonight, which isn't really all that cold
Frozen wasteland..

X5 gets a dead cold start atleast once a day.. It has been doing excellent thus far..





https://youtu.be/Biyu9iUXrn4

5/8 intake - pvcvalve side
3/4 valve cover
3/8 vac cap

3/4 valve cover - AOS - PCV napa CRB 29358 / PCV1175DL / Fram FV345- 5/8 intake -- 3/8 vac cap dipstick