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  #11  
Old 02-28-2018, 02:04 PM
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Voltage regulator can maintain 13.6 at any rpm any load. If it's not then it's defective but the vBat can waiver if the ground is weak.

Sounds like voltage regulator or brushes to me


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  #12  
Old 02-28-2018, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Voltage regulator can maintain 13.6 at any rpm any load. If it's not then it's defective but the vBat can waiver if the ground is weak.

Sounds like voltage regulator or brushes to me


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I will do another load test with all of the electrical components on and do a drop voltage test on the ground. If it confirmed good then I will proceed and install the new alternator.

Just curious how long it took you to installed the water cool alternator on the m62
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  #13  
Old 02-28-2018, 06:07 PM
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I "cheated" as the car was mostly disassembled for replacing the chain guides and vanos rebuild.

That said, once you have the fan and shroud off you should be able to swap the Alternator in less than an hour.

Release the serpentine belt tension, remove about 345 10mm head 6mm bolts that hold it in and swap it.

(The reality is about 9-10 bolts: keep track of where there are several lengths)

The way the water cooled models work by the edge being held about every 2" around the perimeter into the wet opening where the coolant flows.

I can't remember if the hoses are rubber or aluminum, if rubber they could be pinched off rather than draining the entire coolant system.


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  #14  
Old 02-28-2018, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugbyte View Post
I will do another load test with all of the electrical components on and do a drop voltage test on the ground. If it confirmed good then I will proceed and install the new alternator.

Just curious how long it took you to installed the water cool alternator on the m62
I just did a all electronic load test by.
0. Measure the battery voltage is at 12.5
1. Start the car and let it warm up so it idle in the 600 RMP.
2. Turn on headlight, seat warmers (all 4), fog lights, rear defroster, hazard light, radio, and wiper on max.
3. The voltage a this point is fluctuate between 11.8 to 12.3
4. Rev the engine at 1500 RPM, the voltage fluctuating between 13.4 - 13.7.
5. Voltage drop at the block to the negative post is 70 milivolt.

At this point I am concluding that my alternator is not produce enough power when needed.
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  #15  
Old 02-28-2018, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I "cheated" as the car was mostly disassembled for replacing the chain guides and vanos rebuild.

That said, once you have the fan and shroud off you should be able to swap the Alternator in less than an hour.

Release the serpentine belt tension, remove about 345 10mm head 6mm bolts that hold it in and swap it.

(The reality is about 9-10 bolts: keep track of where there are several lengths)

The way the water cooled models work by the edge being held about every 2" around the perimeter into the wet opening where the coolant flows.

I can't remember if the hoses are rubber or aluminum, if rubber they could be pinched off rather than draining the entire coolant system.


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The hoses are rubber. I will take up your suggestion on the bolts.

Thanks for the helpful info to further troubleshooting.
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2018, 11:40 PM
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I would look into replacing the brushes and slip rings


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  #17  
Old 03-01-2018, 12:03 AM
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I just did a load test on my 2010 4.8i

1. Base battery read 12.3 at the post
2. When idle with out load it is at 14.8 and 14.9
3. With load it is at 14 ish
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  #18  
Old 03-01-2018, 09:58 AM
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For consistency I would use either OBD or the hidden menu 7. The drop in voltage in your last test is probably just the voltage drop on the wires.


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  #19  
Old 03-01-2018, 04:26 PM
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I can't follow all of this. Without regard to anything else, engine on should give you 14.4v at all times. 13.6 is too low.
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  #20  
Old 03-01-2018, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
I can't follow all of this. Without regard to anything else, engine on should give you 14.4v at all times. 13.6 is too low.
Agreed. These trucks (at least the V8's), with a good alternator, will stay over 14v at all times.
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