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  #11  
Old 05-13-2018, 10:08 PM
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To add to what the others have said, you have to get the retaining bolt partially installed, so the end of the thread is sitting flush with the outer side of the new carrier (flush with the end of the plastic retainer sleeve). Then press the lock carrier into place and hold it hard against the door seal while turning the retaining screw.

What some folk don't realise is that the carrier hole is threaded too and so you need to "set" the distance between the two parts before winding in the retaining screw; once they are both engaged in the threads no amount of tightening will alter the distance between them. That's why the lock carrier ends up not sitting flush.
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  #12  
Old 05-13-2018, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
To add to what the others have said, you have to get the retaining bolt partially installed, so the end of the thread is sitting flush with the outer side of the new carrier (flush with the end of the plastic retainer sleeve). Then press the lock carrier into place and hold it hard against the door seal while turning the retaining screw.

What some folk don't realise is that the carrier hole is threaded too and so you need to "set" the distance between the two parts before winding in the retaining screw; once they are both engaged in the threads no amount of tightening will alter the distance between them. That's why the lock carrier ends up not sitting flush.


I realized that early on. That's not the issue I'm having. I literally could not get the bolt to line up with the lock part of the handle at all. Somehow I got it in, now the grab handle itself won't go down all the way flush.


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  #13  
Old 05-13-2018, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
The problem I had and is probably the same you are experiencing when my right rear handle carrier had the same issue (not lining up and handle not sitting flush to the door) was that when I installed the new carrier, I did not get the carrier UNDER the lip inside on the door skin at the top of the carrier. Make sure to lean it in so the top of the carrier goes under that metal lip in the door itself. If you look inside real close, you can see it. I struggled with this for an hour before I figured out my blunder.


Hmmm. I will have to look into this. Everything seemed to point to something not being right on the inside, but I couldn't see anything.

Was this on your rear doors? How did you see it?


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  #14  
Old 05-13-2018, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by snik View Post
Hmmm. I will have to look into this. Everything seemed to point to something not being right on the inside, but I couldn't see anything.

Was this on your rear doors? How did you see it?


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Right rear just like yours. I actually had to lay down on the floor and look up the void on the inner side of the door with a flashlight. Then I reached my hand up there and felt it and mumbled under my breath "frickin amateur"...
Tilted the top of the carrier under the lip and it went right in.
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:49 AM
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I believe the seal was binding on the top. lower the handle slowly and watch for binding. I think the handle is moving upward and inward when it hits the seal.

On at least two but not every occasion the seal want smooth or flat enough after 17 years and I used a utility razor blade out of the knife to shave a few thousands of an inch (hundreds of mm) off where it was binding and it went flat in a minute or two. Also some spray lubricant helped
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:57 AM
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My hinge broke on my back left door carrier a couple weeks ago. I've been able to still open the door with a strong/quick tug but that won't last forever. I'll be repairing soon most likely just repair the existing one with wire wrap or alumaweld. I will post pictures.

I don't like replacing with the same exact design flaws as the broken one so I reengineer much stronger so it won't re-break.


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Old 05-14-2018, 03:05 AM
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Check if the cable on the Non oem carrier is the same length as the OEM carrier. I had the same issue as you and realised (after many attempts and swear words) that the cable was shorter then oem. I switched them over and it worked straight away.

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  #18  
Old 05-14-2018, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
My hinge broke on my back left door carrier a couple weeks ago. I've been able to still open the door with a strong/quick tug but that won't last forever. I'll be repairing soon most likely just repair the existing one with wire wrap or alumaweld. I will post pictures.

I don't like replacing with the same exact design flaws as the broken one so I reengineer much stronger so it won't re-break.
Thank you, your pictures will be appreciated.
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  #19  
Old 05-14-2018, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Awntchi View Post
Check if the cable on the Non oem carrier is the same length as the OEM carrier. I had the same issue as you and realised (after many attempts and swear words) that the cable was shorter then oem. I switched them over and it worked straight away.

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I didn't notice they were different lengths. I can't recall which was longer now. I had swapped to the original cable. But later swapped back to the one the new carrier came with.


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Old 05-14-2018, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
My hinge broke on my back left door carrier a couple weeks ago. I've been able to still open the door with a strong/quick tug but that won't last forever. I'll be repairing soon most likely just repair the existing one with wire wrap or alumaweld. I will post pictures.

I don't like replacing with the same exact design flaws as the broken one so I reengineer much stronger so it won't re-break.


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Mine is cracked at the hinge around the axle. Not sure how I could even fix it.


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