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#21
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I think you might be on to something here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Black on cream 04 4.8iS Black on black 330i ZHP auto Imola on black 01 M3 |
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#22
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Door handle carrier. - HELP!!!
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That is the exact way they almost always break and it's easy and basically free to fix. I wrote an exact how to with video and photos you can try to find its difficult to find with the app Here is some helpful preventative measures when using a new carrier: www.xoutpost.com/1123434-post260
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#23
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I didn't get that, were they different lengths? If the cable is shorter and you (by some miracle) do get the screw lined up and the cable hooked then the door handle will never go into a "resting" position. It will be strained and stick out a lot from its resting position.
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BMW X5 E53, 4.8iS - 2005 Professional Stereo/Nav with DSP (modified BM54 module) - Converted to Eonon GA5166X with Reverse cam 4-Corner Air Suspension - Converted to BC Coilovers |
#24
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That was a typo. I DID notice they were different lengths. I did some swapping around, but I dont recall which is in there now. I would have to look what's on the broken carrier. It is sticking out, but it was doing that before I hooked the cable. So it seems something else is amiss. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Black on cream 04 4.8iS Black on black 330i ZHP auto Imola on black 01 M3 |
#25
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I realize that this thread is 2 years old and snik has undoubtedly figured something out by now. But just in case someone comes across this posting when they have a problem getting the door handle carrier fitted properly, I wanted to add my recent experience working on my son's e53 rear door handle carrier.
Same as snik and some other postings I found, we had trouble aligning the hex bolt. Tightening the front philips screw caused the rear part of the door handle to become misaligned. Eventually we figured out it was because the bowden cable was pressing against the door lock/latch actuator. If we removed the bowden cable the door handle carrier fit perfectly and all the screw holes aligned nicely. Put the bowden cable back into the door handle carrier and things were shifted a few millimeters out of alignment. The solution was to remove the 3 torx-30 bolts that hold the door lock actuator in place. With the door lock actuator out of the way, the door handle carrier with bowden cable was easy to position. Then the door lock actuator was replaced, and the 3 T-30 bolts tightened up. Just looking at a number of postings, this (door lock actuator hampering the proper seating of the door handle carrier) seems to be a bigger problem with the rear door. Certainly, I have done a front door handle carrier without having to do anything with the door lock actuator. Others have also stated that for the rear the door lock rod will hamper removing the door handle carrier - it has been recommended to pop the door lock rod out of the actuator to allow the door handle carrier to be removed/installed. So when doing the rear door handle carrier, my strong advice is to start by unbolting the door lock/latch actuator and letting it drop down inside the door frame a few inches. This will allow you to much more easily remove the door handle carrier (gets the door lock rod out of the way), and prevents any problem getting the door handle carrier fitted properly where all the bolts line up. Hope that helps someone in the future.
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Stephen 2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2 2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1 2021 G05 45e PHEV - now driven by me 2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife |
#26
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Always remove the actuator. You can change it without but it's 5x as difficult front and 10x more difficult rear!
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#27
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Morning all and sorry to hijack post, ok had my driver side door handle carrier replaced 2 weeks ago usual bit broke, all ok, but on close inspection i have the issue posted here at the the part of the trim that covers the key hole, it doesn't sit flush against the seal.....is there any easy way to pop this part of the trim off ? and tightening that bolt shown in pic will pull the part closer and flush to the panel? If not and i have to rip open the whole door then gonna use a touch of silicon sealant in areas as we are looking at 1-2mm gap....
cheers
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
#28
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Or can i just remove the black plug on the innerside of the door to get to the allen key bolt and adjust that?....got a 1-2 mm gap on the part of the trim that fits over the door lock after having the door carrier replaced...
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
#29
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
#30
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Here is the message that has just been posted: *************** There is a bit of a trick to fitting the lock cover assembly - it needs to be seated tightly prior to tightening up the allen key. If the cover is loose when the allen is tightened, it will stay loose. At this point, simply tightening the allen key (bolt) won't pull the lock cover in tighter. ***************
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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