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  #21  
Old 07-05-2018, 10:27 PM
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Great feedback because as one would expect it "has to work" one diode to protect us from ourselves and no go.
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Old 07-06-2018, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
Just to make sure I'm clear here - that's what I did when my electrical opening failed. To answer + clarify, related to my experience (and it's still in this state, so I can go and test anything anyone wants)
Thanks for the additional info...it does paint a clearer picture.


It also makes me go back to what andrewwyn mentioned earlier about the BST (battery safety terminal). The engine bay components (starter/alternator/B+ terminal/etc) are connected to the rest of the vehicles electrical system through a postive B+ cable that runs back to the BST at the battery and the high amp fuses/rear fuses/glovebox fuses.



If the BST has failed or somehow become disconnected...trying to power from the engine bay won't work because none of the fuse boxes will receive power. If the BST is intact, even when the positive battery cable is removed from the car's battery...power is still being supplied to the high amp fuses, rear fuses, and glovebox fuses.





{diagram of the BST}



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  #23  
Old 07-06-2018, 10:20 AM
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Good follow-up on the BST. It's still very curious the B+ jumper wouldn't run the tailgate, it would seem a fuse would have to be blown for that to be the case.
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