Damn... (3.0d exhaust manifold crack) - Fixed (with pictures!)

[nice1guv]

Tis the season! I have just replaced, or should I say failed to replace, and someone else replaced mine!
Mine had been leaking for some time, no real performance issues, but the smoke/smell on startup from under the front was not good.
Mine had split on the number 1 cylinder pretty much all the way around, and at the other end and a couple of cracks in the middle area. A right mess!

Same as you, I researched to the max and thought I could do it over a few days myself. Alas, I couldn't.
Pulled the air stuff etc, same as the first pic above, but just couldn't get in there enough to get the old manifold off.
Decided I wasn't up to pulling the injectors in order to remove the valve cover, so put it all back together and took it to the local BMW specialist.
They pulled the turbo and went in from the bottom on a hoist (obviously).
Charged me 5 hours labour to get it done (I believe this is the book time to get the job done).
I hate not being able to do a job myself and getting others to work on my car, but in this case, I think I made the right decision.

Good luck to you!

[wpoll]

Thanks nice1guv, I'll try to not be too discouraged by your story!

And I'll post pictures of the process... assuming it goes well...

(But it has to - it just has to).

[wpoll]

Well, the manifold is here...



Looks pretty good. Studs and turbo bolts are slightly different from as advertised but nothing major.

The copper nuts are odd - they have been slightly "squashed" in one direction, making the thread hole slightly off-round, presumably to make them tight on the studs (kinda self-locking). It also makes them an tight fit in a 6pt 12mm socket. But at least they will stay put in the socket while I assemble the manifold.

Got some 3/8" drive deep sockets on order (12mm 6pt and 12mm 12pt) and I'm still waiting on the turbo ducting gaskets.

[deepblonde]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Well, the manifold is here...



Looks pretty good. Studs and turbo bolts are slightly different from as advertised but nothing major.

The copper nuts are odd - they have been slightly "squashed" in one direction, making the thread hole slightly off-round, presumably to make them tight on the studs (kinda self-locking). It also makes them an tight fit in a 6pt 12mm socket. But at least they will stay put in the socket while I assemble the manifold.

Got some 3/8" drive deep sockets on order (12mm 6pt and 12mm 12pt) and I'm still waiting on the turbo ducting gaskets.

The socket cap hex bolts that they included are better - they’re stronger and there is a risk when using other types of bolts that the flange would get caught on the lip near the cylinder head- you’ll know what I mean when you get everything pulled apart...
And the nuts would be 11mm if I remember

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by deepblonde

The socket cap hex bolts that they included are better - they’re stronger and there is a risk when using other types of bolts that the flange would get caught on the lip near the cylinder head- you’ll know what I mean when you get everything pulled apart...
And the nuts would be 11mm if I remember

Thanks for info, deepblonde. I wondered about the bolts...

I checked the nuts - these ones use a 12mm socket. Good tight fit.

[deepblonde]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Thanks for info, deepblonde. I wondered about the bolts...

I checked the nuts - these ones use a 12mm socket. Good tight fit.

I used a spline socket to remove the original turbo bolts , I think was e12 , 10mm, and the socket pressed down on the lip making it hard to remove the bolt nearest the cylinder head until I realised what was happening.
I don’t see how you are going to do it without removing turbo though....

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Thanks for info, deepblonde. I wondered about the bolts...

I checked the nuts - these ones use a 12mm socket. Good tight fit.

Sounds good. Very interesting on the squashed nut - makes sense.

I've got the similar-but-different 3.0i, and have the manifolds off right now. On that engine, they are 11mm hex nuts on M7-1.0 threads, copper plated steel (I assume - they look copper, but are magnetic).

When I pulled them, of the 16 studs (different layout from the 3.0d), I think 11 studs came out of the head rather than the nut coming off the stud. And I think I did this all from above.

Regarding getting the 12mm deep sockets, I swear I used about half a dozen different options getting my nuts/studs out, and I needed all of them. Ratcheting 11mm wrench, 7/16" wrench, solid closed end angled 11mm wrench (that was thinner that the other options), short sockets, long sockets. I wish I had a swivel socket in an 11mm (I do in 10 and 12), but that is such a rare size.

Since it is such a tight fit on my engine, I sometimes had problems fitting 3/8" drive sockets, where a 1/4" drive might fit. And every one of those 16 nuts was a different adventure. Some took less than a minute, some took 30 minutes. Wow.

Also, I don't have any E12 around there, but it sounds like you do. In case there is a place where you can't fit a regular E12 socket, I recently figured out that a Craftsman 3/8" Universal ratcheting wrench is a PERFECT fit on the pretty-common E12 head. This is a wrench designed for a 3/8" hex head, but they make it "universal" by making it with 12 bumps, allowing it to fit hex, square, torx, etc. You'd generally want just the regular E12 socket, but when that does not fit ...

Here it is: https://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-...p-00920601000P



Of course much cheaper when buying a set. The 10mm version works pretty well too, but is slightly looser than the 3/8".

Those gaskets look interesting. What are those extra holes on the side for? Alignment of some sort?

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by deepblonde

I used a spline socket to remove the original turbo bolts , I think was e12 , 10mm, and the socket pressed down on the lip making it hard to remove the bolt nearest the cylinder head until I realised what was happening.
I don’t see how you are going to do it without removing turbo though....

I don't think the turbo bolts are an e-anything - they look to be a "double-hex" or a basic 12 point head. Check out the first picture I posted in this thread - it is of my actual manifold (taken with a USB snake-cam). I have a thin-walled 3/8 drive 12 point socket on the way to deal to these bolts.

And as for not removing the turbo - this approach requires two special tools - dexterity and patience!

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by oldskewel

Sounds good. Very interesting on the squashed nut - makes sense.

I've got the similar-but-different 3.0i, and have the manifolds off right now. On that engine, they are 11mm hex nuts on M7-1.0 threads, copper plated steel (I assume - they look copper, but are magnetic).

When I pulled them, of the 16 studs (different layout from the 3.0d), I think 11 studs came out of the head rather than the nut coming off the stud. And I think I did this all from above.

Regarding getting the 12mm deep sockets, I swear I used about half a dozen different options getting my nuts/studs out, and I needed all of them. Ratcheting 11mm wrench, 7/16" wrench, solid closed end angled 11mm wrench (that was thinner that the other options), short sockets, long sockets. I wish I had a swivel socket in an 11mm (I do in 10 and 12), but that is such a rare size.

Since it is such a tight fit on my engine, I sometimes had problems fitting 3/8" drive sockets, where a 1/4" drive might fit. And every one of those 16 nuts was a different adventure. Some took less than a minute, some took 30 minutes. Wow.

Also, I don't have any E12 around there, but it sounds like you do. In case there is a place where you can't fit a regular E12 socket, I recently figured out that a Craftsman 3/8" Universal ratcheting wrench is a PERFECT fit on the pretty-common E12 head. This is a wrench designed for a 3/8" hex head, but they make it "universal" by making it with 12 bumps, allowing it to fit hex, square, torx, etc. You'd generally want just the regular E12 socket, but when that does not fit ...

Here it is: https://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-...p-00920601000P

Attachment 74068

Of course much cheaper when buying a set. The 10mm version works pretty well too, but is slightly looser than the 3/8".

Those gaskets look interesting. What are those extra holes on the side for? Alignment of some sort?

Thanks oldskewel - I've been following your thread - sounds likes you are doing well.

The one-piece manifold on the M57 engines makes it all a LOT easier, but I expect to be using a range of tools as you did, especially when it comes to dealing with the studs. Still debating what do do about the studs - final decision will depend on how many studs come out with the nuts.

As I just mentioned to deepblonde, I don't think the turbo/manifold bolts are an e-bolt - they are just a "double-hex" head and any good 12 point socket will work. I have a good set of e-sockets on hand though.

BTW, Sears URL links no longer work outside of the USA - just redirects to an "international shoppers" page.

And the gasket - yes, interesting design. I don't see any purpose for all the extra tabs and holes - used during robotic assembly in the factory maybe? They are a multi-layer composite gasket so maybe the punched holes help bind the layers somehow?

[deepblonde]

Originally Posted by wpoll

I don't think the turbo bolts are an e-anything - they look to be a "double-hex" or a basic 12 point head. Check out the first picture I posted in this thread - it is of my actual manifold (taken with a USB snake-cam). I have a thin-walled 3/8 drive 12 point socket on the way to deal to these bolts.

And as for not removing the turbo - this approach requires two special tools - dexterity and patience!

Yes, I think you’re right.
I wasn’t able to get a good fit on the bolt near the cylinder head, so I kept thinking I had the wrong socket size. Eventually I got it off with the spline socket.
But if you aren’t going to remove the turbo, how are you going to clean the side of the cylinder head ready for your new gaskets? Just do it blindly?