After many BMWs, finally snagged my first X

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by BigBody

Why not just use some led bulbs?

The whole point of changing the tails lights to LED is to ditch the unreliable bulb sockets and holders on the OEM fittings. Just changing to LED bulbs gives you all the grief of LED without eliminating the crappy sockets.

I've "fixed" the OEM sockets and fittings, which is one way to eliminate the near-constant tail/brake bulb warnings. Others have fitted aftermarket LED tail light assemblies to the facelift cars; depending on the exact LED chosen, the wiring and programming changes are not too bad. But it's not plug-and-play.

[itsbrokeagain]

Originally Posted by wpoll

The whole point of changing the tails lights to LED is to ditch the unreliable bulb sockets and holders on the OEM fittings. Just changing to LED bulbs gives you all the grief of LED without eliminating the crappy sockets.

I've "fixed" the OEM sockets and fittings, which is one way to eliminate the near-constant tail/brake bulb warnings. Others have fitted aftermarket LED tail light assemblies to the facelift cars; depending on the exact LED chosen, the wiring and programming changes are not too bad. But it's not plug-and-play.

I took mine out, used some scotchbrite to clean up the corroded areas on the taillight and bought some new bulb holders. Everything works as new now.

Why not go that route? The ebay LED lights look like garbage on them.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by itsbrokeagain

I took mine out, used some scotchbrite to clean up the corroded areas on the taillight and bought some new bulb holders. Everything works as new now.

Why not go that route? The ebay LED lights look like garbage on them.

Your "fix" won't last. You need to add a dab of solder under where the tabs for the bulb holders rest. I think the tabs on the bulb holder get soft from heat and then the contact becomes loose. When the contact gets loose it starts to arc. When it arcs it gradually burns away the tab on the bulb holder. The dab of solder keeps the tabs solidly in contact with the metal of the tail light. Well known defect and well known fix.

[lezmtaylor]

I always fit bulbs with a smear of ''Vaseline'' around the metal pieces and contact areas, will stop any corrosion.
Always works for me.

Lez

[BigBody]

Originally Posted by wpoll

The whole point of changing the tails lights to LED is to ditch the unreliable bulb sockets and holders on the OEM fittings. Just changing to LED bulbs gives you all the grief of LED without eliminating the crappy sockets.

I've "fixed" the OEM sockets and fittings, which is one way to eliminate the near-constant tail/brake bulb warnings. Others have fitted aftermarket LED tail light assemblies to the facelift cars; depending on the exact LED chosen, the wiring and programming changes are not too bad. But it's not plug-and-play.

I see. I prefer the oem lights imo. I thought the issue with the sockets was heat from the conventional bulbs, which I would assume wouldn't be a problem with leds. I like the pop the leds give when they go on and off. Im not necessarily after the cluster array look, so its something ive always considered doing. No issues atm, but if I upgrade, ill likely go that route.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by BigBody

I see. I prefer the oem lights imo. I thought the issue with the sockets was heat from the conventional bulbs, which I would assume wouldn't be a problem with leds. I like the pop the leds give when they go on and off. Im not necessarily after the cluster array look, so its something ive always considered doing. No issues atm, but if I upgrade, ill likely go that route.

Not heat from the conventional bulbs. Crappy contacts causing shorting which causes erosion of the pins.