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  #11  
Old 09-18-2018, 05:18 PM
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Radio reception could be an issue with the antenna amplifier. From memory it is powered by Fuse 86 in the rear right hand cubby.
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  #12  
Old 09-18-2018, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yes_its_neil View Post
Radio reception could be an issue with the antenna amplifier. From memory it is powered by Fuse 86 in the rear right hand cubby.
Thanks! I'll check it when I get home later.

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  #13  
Old 09-18-2018, 06:37 PM
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If driveshaft has a center bushing that could be the source of the clunking or the differential bushings. If subframe bushings you should be able to get the clunk in circumstances such as going over a speed bump.
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  #14  
Old 09-18-2018, 08:54 PM
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Huh, it doesnt clunk over bumps, just when I take off, or shift poorly lol. It is a rather difficult car to get used to driving. A bad gumbo would make sense. I forgot I had that problem with my old E30 too.

And fuse 86 and all these are good, but is there supposed to be a fuse in the large socket farthest back? The one behind the other two large, pale green ones...

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Last edited by BrwnNbrusd46; 09-18-2018 at 09:00 PM.
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  #15  
Old 09-19-2018, 11:43 AM
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There are 3 slots for relays behind the 3 pale green relays. There are blue. The first is to lock the lower tailgate. The second is a rear backrest relay. The one closest to the rear is for air suspension and upper tailgate lock.
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  #16  
Old 09-20-2018, 11:23 AM
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Trust me at your mileage the rear subframe bushings are shot - the clunkiness when shifting is a definite sign I had - mine were clunking well before 80k miles - The manual trans models seem to be harsher on them than the V8's because of the lack of torque converter -
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Old 09-20-2018, 01:24 PM
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I think the clunk that you are talking about is in the Dual Mass Flywheel.

Can you feel a clunk almost as if there's slack in the drivetrain? Even under the smallest of throttle movements? I think I know exactly what kind of clunk you're talking about. I didn't catch the mileage on yours. Mines been bad from the day I picked it up at 158K miles

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  #18  
Old 09-20-2018, 01:54 PM
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@bcredliner cool I suppose that back spot should be empty since it doesnt have air suspension.

@Ricky Bobby I'm sure they're worn as well. Guy I bought it from said he'd fix the clunk so I'm not terribly worried about it. He's also replacing a bad O2 sensor so it'll pass emissions.

The front suspension all appears newer than the rest of the underside and it drives like it. I've got brakes, an alternator, and auxiliary water pump on order, replaced the tailgate handle which was broken, and the driver's door seal. Oh and I restored the headlights and the clearcoat is being fixed on the roof. This X5 will live to be a road warrior again!

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  #19  
Old 09-20-2018, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeletor View Post
I think the clunk that you are talking about is in the Dual Mass Flywheel.

Can you feel a clunk almost as if there's slack in the drivetrain? Even under the smallest of throttle movements? I think I know exactly what kind of clunk you're talking about. I didn't catch the mileage on yours. Mines been bad from the day I picked it up at 158K miles

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=647338
I'm fairly certain it's not the flywheel, though I'm sure it will need to be replaced at some point. I don't have the lack of throttle response, weird engagement, or vibration really. It just seems like the symptoms I've experienced in my old e30 with unknown mileage. It would clunk over speed bumps and jerk/clunk without correct clutch engagement. Once I fixed its guibo and rear subframe bushes, it was fine. I've also gotten more used to the X5 now and the clunk seems to be a more rare occurrence. It's mostly due to me not driving a manual for 4 years lol.

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  #20  
Old 09-20-2018, 02:25 PM
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Did you ask him if he deleted the CDV (clutch delay valve) - it will cause odd clutch operation, different from most standard cars, if its still in there -


The flywheel and clutch is probably not the issue - I've rarely seen them go unless the owner doesn't know how to drive. At a certain point, yes if you replaced with new parts, sure it would drive better, but I don't know at what point we can consider "complete failure"


After you do the brakes if you still have the shuddering, I would look into replacing the thrust arms, because if the brakes are fine and you're still getting shaking while braking from high speed, those are the culprit.


My guibos at 15 yrs/106k miles still look new, the driveshaft has no play. The only other thing could be from the transfer case, sometimes the chain gets slack over the years and needs to be replaced.
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