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Old 10-31-2018, 08:19 PM
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Key problem

FIXED - See last post!!!


I have had an intermittent problem with the key for some time. It started with the vehicle not cranking when I turned the key sometimes. I ended up replacing the starter motor which had the brushes worn down to next to nothing. This seemed to fix for a little while and then the problem reoccurred.


I removed the ignition switch and dismantled it and saw that one of the terminals was badly worn due to arcing. I cleaned up all the contacts and put the ignition switch back in. This seemed to make the cranking problem less frequent but it still happened periodically. If I turned the key off and on several times it would eventually crank. I then replaced the ignition switch with a new one and the problem went away for a few months.


Now it has started again. Any ideas?? I doubt it has anything to do with the neutral switch as when I turn key off and on repeatedly it will crank after several tries without jiggling the transmission lever.


Also my remote open/close has been playing up recently off and on also. The weird thing is sometimes I can be right next to the car and remote doesn't work, however recently we were away camping and I got up in the morning to discover all the windows down and the sunroof open which means the key battery had enough juice to stay on and lower/open windows etc from a distance overnight.


Any other common denominator I have overlooked??
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Last edited by Tomdownunder; 12-12-2018 at 07:07 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-31-2018, 08:44 PM
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Do you have a second key? The "no crank" sounds like an issue with the EWS, which could be a key fob fault, a fault with the EWS antenna ring on the ignition switch or even the EWS module itself (unlikely).

The remote operation is completely separate circuits and has it's own battery (which the EWS doesn't use) but is obviously on the same circuit board in the key fob, so a key fob that is dropped often etc. and has developed circuit board cracks or component damage can exhibit faults with BOTH systems..
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Old 11-01-2018, 05:21 AM
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I have 2 other keys which are aftermarket and have flat batteries so the remote doesn't work. I will try using one of these for a while and see if problem continues.
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Old 11-09-2018, 12:15 AM
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I have tried one of the other keys and the problem is still there. Turn the key, all the ignition lights come on but it won't crank. Turn key off and on several times and away it goes.


Any ideas?
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Old 11-09-2018, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomdownunder View Post
I have tried one of the other keys and the problem is still there. Turn the key, all the ignition lights come on but it won't crank. Turn key off and on several times and away it goes.


Any ideas?
Sounds like the EWS antenna may be on the fritz. You could check the connections for the ring antenna, after removing the shroud around the steering column...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...filter/BuaqUch

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...filter/2o1pDFK

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...filter/C1XcBMF

Here's the functional description...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...aerial/XCBgHbF
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:22 AM
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Thanks for the reply.
Is the ring antenna just a coil or does it contain circuitry? Can it be tested with a multimeter?
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:36 AM
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I was having the same problem recently. For me it turned out to be the battery in the key fob.
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomdownunder View Post
Thanks for the reply.
Is the ring antenna just a coil or does it contain circuitry? Can it be tested with a multimeter?
I imagine it's just a coil but it may have some ancillary components included in the part....



https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...0d-sav/UuEdcID

This diagram indicates it's a simple coil...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...er/key/ofNdxgo

This video seems to confirm this supposition... (2.8ohms....)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9V7o_BuPSc

(Ignore the bit that states the key contains two batteries - there is only one...)

HTH... :-)
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jac View Post
I was having the same problem recently. For me it turned out to be the battery in the key fob.
Can't have been the same problem - the battery in the key fob plays no roll in the operation of the EWS. The "security chip" in the key fob is powered by the RF field produced by the ring antenna around the ignition key. The car should still start fine with a totally dead key fob battery.

The remote locking would be dead though (if the key fob battery is dead).
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Old 12-12-2018, 07:05 PM
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FIXED IT !!!
Problem turned out to be a battery connection in the rear. I did a scan and discovered that the positive terminal on the battery has 2 connections. I had wired a secondary battery controller to the smaller of the 2 connections (for my camper trailer) and must have not tightened the nut enough. It has been a little loose and caused arcing and the solder to melt in the terminal going to my controller. I ended up shearing off the bolt as it had welded itself on. I replaced the bolt, tightened securely with new terminal to my aux battery controller and problem gone.
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