3.0 Oil Pan Removal

[Vanguard]

It seems like I've taken half the damn car apart to get to the oil pan. I've pulled all the bolts - including the two under the passenger side axle box. All the ones around the back where the oil pan meets the transmission and I've pulled the power steering pump.


I've been gently prying at the back and front where the pan seems to have supports and using a plastic hammer to try to get this thing loose. It just doesn't want to seem to come off.


I'd appreciate any suggestions on getting this !#$#@#!$!@##@! thing off.

[andrewwynn]

TIS calls for raising engine and dropping subframe to push the pan backwards.

You also need to remove the did and PS pump I think.

I saved the steps but I can’t upload where I am I’ll upload when I get home.

–awr–

[Factory6speed]

It can stick a bit but a few good whacks with the plastic hammer should have broken the bond where you can start to wiggle it. Unless of course you're missing a bolt hiding on you somewhere. I did it on the m52 timing cover, I pryed on that sucker for a good while, nearly broke it, and there was a hidden bolt right in front of me, like right in the middle

I remember 28 bolts, 19 of the short ones, the 3 etorx on the transmission, the two long ones in the half shaft you mentioned, the two medium ones in the rear cover, and then the two longer ones in the rear cover. Do you have good lighting under there? These headlamps are the best,
https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-.../dp/B0B3RJHR1Y

I used the torque wrench of course, but after first test drive there were three of the bolts leaking. They needed another quarter turn. I did use a chaser tap to try to get resistance out of the holes for a better torque reading. Maybe I needed to do that better. I was fortunate in that all the bolts were somewhat accessible with the subframe in. I'm not sure about running it to get it up to temp with out having the subframe and the mounts. Silicone thread sealer on the bolt threads as well. Good luck, it is a massive job but it's very rewarding.

Also if you got the bolt kit from FCP Euro it is wrong on these cars and you won't have enough of those long bolts. I told them about that and told them to fix it but I doubt they have. That delayed me another couple days.

[Vanguard]

subframe is out. ps pump is out as well. I've checked the bolts umpteen times. I'll give it another go in the morning.

[Effduration]

Just did this...there is a ledge on the outside of the rear of the pan, that you can gently pry against without damaging the mating surface.

If you have all the bolts out ( I initially missed one of the horizontal e-torx ), it should come out...

And yes you do have about 1/2 of the car apart....

[Fifty150hs]

I did this job a few years ago. It's a PITA and does require half the car to come apart. IIRC I had the same problem and it took me going over the pan several times and reviewing the Bentleys a couple of times before I found the bolt I missed. It was at the rear by the bell housing. I think there's one back there that is kind of concealed unless you look at it the right way. You'll find it. The job sucks but its very satisfying once its done and there's no more leaks. While you have things apart replace the seals at the front diff and axle carrier.

[Fifty150hs]

Did you pull the dipstick and tube?

[Vanguard]

I did pull the dipstick and tube. The culprit was a bolt at the back hidden up behind the transmission bellhousing.


Reinstalling today. Just trying to find the correct torque for the oil pan bolts

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Vanguard

I did pull the dipstick and tube. The culprit was a bolt at the back hidden up behind the transmission bellhousing.


Reinstalling today. Just trying to find the correct torque for the oil pan bolts

I think that's the one that was hiding from me too.

[andrewwynn]

For me it was 8 N·m plus 90° and 8 N·m plus 180° for the long bolts.

I'll look up for you.




–awr–

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