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  #11  
Old 12-01-2018, 10:46 PM
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If you have the early, motor-less transfer case (NV125? I forget off the top of my head), if any CV half shaft isn't pushed ALL the way into its differential, you get no motion, forward or backward even if the trans is in gear.


Make sure all the CVs are engaged. It doesn't have to make a terrible noise if it is popped out, the only way to really tell is how close the dust shield on over the splined part of the half shaft is from the differential. It needs to be really close. If you can see more than an inch between the dust shield on the half shaft and the differential, it's likely not in all the way. The c-clip on the end of the half shaft has to be in all the way and it cannot pop free.


Because of the early transfer case design and the open differentials, this is what happens if one half shaft is not engaged.
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2018, 10:54 PM
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To push it all the way back in I imagine I would need to remove the wheels, caliper, rotor, then sway-links, ball-joints, CV axle boots, then see if its in tightly and if I suspect one has popped out what then? Pull it free from the Diff. and ensure the c-clip is properly seated? It only takes one to come out for both sides to malfunction?


I forgot to mention the previous owner, who I've been communicating throughout this entire ordeal, told me, prior to buying the vehicle, that the ball joints, CV axles and suspension were all repaired and replaced by himself recently. I confirmed this with the shop it was inspected at so maybe he cheaped out on the parts or didn't put something back in just right?



I'm thinking this isn't a terribly big job at a shop, I might just foot the bill assuming this is the issue and not the bearings in the Diff. I just hope the diff wasn't damaged in the process as even a used one isn't cheap for this uni. student.


Thanks for the input!
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2018, 10:58 PM
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CV axle is not that terrible of a job. You can extract without removing any of the joints you loosen the fitting to the shock mount and you can move the wheel hub carrier out of the way. The most difficult part is pulling the CV out of the differential.
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  #14  
Old 12-02-2018, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
... The most difficult part is pulling the CV out of the differential.
Sounds like THAT has already happened....
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2018, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JasBib View Post
Just rotated both front wheels and they turn freely without much resistance asside from a bit of pad/rotor friction, the drive shaft doesnt tun in either case. I do hear some muffled clicking though while turning both wheels.

While running the X5 in gear, should the rear drive shaft be rotating as well as its an AWD?...
Not exactly clear to me what tests you're doing here, and I always favor careful testing before tearing things apart and replacing things.

"rotated both front wheels" - does this mean all 4 wheels were off the ground, AT in neutral, parking brake off? Does it mean AT in park, one wheel off the ground at a time? Something else?

I don't think it's clear from this description, and the answer will impact the correct diagnosis. Maybe the other advice you're getting here is from people guessing correctly about what you mean, but maybe not.

Basically, all the gears / splines / CV joints from the AT to the Transfer Case to the front/rear differentials to the inner CV joints to the outer CV joints, are supposed to be connected at all times. From your symptoms, it seems everyone agrees that there is an intermittent break in this mechanical chain somewhere. You need to find that break, and I think you should be able to do it without disassembling anything or starting the engine.

I think jacking one wheel off the ground at a time should do this. E.g., jack the right front wheel (only that one) off the ground, support with a jack stand. Try to rotate that wheel. It should not turn other than a few degrees of angular slop. If you can spin it, you know the problem is somewhere between that wheel and your AT. So then have someone spin that wheel while you get under the car and see what is moving and what is not. The place where the movement stops indicates the problem spot.

No problem there? Move to the next wheel. One slightly complicating factor is that since the problem is intermittent, you could find that the process of asymmetrically jacking the car like this will cause splines to engage or joints to pop into contact, making the experiments tougher to do.
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  #16  
Old 12-02-2018, 03:38 PM
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When I was verifying last time I had both front wheels off the ground, rotated one at a time and verified that the front drive shaft was not rotating, while the vehicle was in park. I can also have the two front wheels in the air and the vehicle in Drive or Reverse and the front drive shaft will turn yet neither of the front wheels are moving nor are the rear wheels or the rear drive shaft.


I'm pretty sure "the movement stops" between the front differential and the wheel itself.


I'll try one wheel at a time like you said, might help me find the courage to DIY if it happens to be only one side.



I'll find out in a few days after uni exams and I have time to work out in the snow/rain or push it to a mechanic. Will be sure to keep the forum updated.
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  #17  
Old 12-02-2018, 09:18 PM
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From what I remember you had done the test of both wheels off the ground and turning either you didn't see motion in the front drive shaft. Usually you'll have one wheel turn backwards if drive shaft can't turn (transmission in park).
If a CV axle is out that side won't turn but you might get a tiny bit of motion in the drive shaft when you turn the wheel that is connected. If you get no resistance on either wheel it means more likely an internal fault in the diff but that won't explain how you were able to drive off after turning the wheels. With a helper I would try to push the CV into the dif while turning the wheel hub (wheel off the car). One side at a time. If it won't go in I suspect the c clip is damaged and you want to remove CV and replace c clip before re install
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  #18  
Old 12-02-2018, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Sounds like THAT has already happened....

Yes it does. (CV came out) I mentioned to say don't try to force it in too hard in fact if replaced already there is a good chance a malformed c clip prevented the CV from being installed all the way but splines gripped until it fell out.

When I replaced wife's CV I could not get the right side to seat and after 90 minutes of trying I pulled it out and took off the c clip and it shot right in. I've transferred the c clip from the old CV and one or two hits with the 3# motivator it went right in.

that's my bet.
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  #19  
Old 12-02-2018, 10:37 PM
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If you just need the car to move, you can snug it up to the diff with a crowbar...gently.
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  #20  
Old 12-06-2018, 08:15 PM
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I brought it to the shop and the mechanic spent all of five minutes on it, the passenger side cv axle was out about half an inch, the last guy didn't properly seat it. He pushed it back in snug and filled about 1.5 litres of differential fluid. End of story.


Thanks for all the comments, I went in there having a good idea of the issue and watched the mechanic resolve what I could have easily done myself.
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