Battery at 50% Charge but with 12.24 Volts, replace?

[mr_robot]

I decided to go to Autozone and get my battery testest, so did the first cold start, drove 2 miles and had them test the battery with the car shut off.

Their tester shows "good battery" but with only 50% Charge at 12.24V. This was done directly on the battery posts.

I'm not experiencing any common issues with a bad battery but chasing others and just trying everything I can.

Should I replace it with an AGM? Battery is only little over a year old, Exide Extreme L5/49.

[jsoto]

Has the car been driven some distance prior - aka, battering being given a good charge and or has it been on charger prior to the ~test~. Was that charge at 12.2 before they did the load test ?


I would dump it on a trickle ,see what V looks like after resting. Sorta see the baseline is

[mr_robot]

Originally Posted by jsoto

Has the car been driven some distance prior - aka, battering being given a good charge and or has it been on charger prior to the ~test~. Was that charge at 12.2 before they did the load test ?


I would dump it on a trickle ,see what V looks like after resting. Sorta see the baseline is

No, just started it up this morning to go to autozone to dump some old oil which is like a miles away now that I look it up and decided to check it then. So the car ran for only like 5 min after starting.

Just don't think dropping to 50% is normal after one start.

[jsoto]

Re : distance, meaning has the car been driven for semi extended periods of time prior or has it just been habitually a short tripper ?

What was the V@home before the drive.
I would charge it, let it rest. See how V looks like after resting. Set the baseline and then monitor the battery SOH

[mr_robot]

Originally Posted by jsoto

Re : distance, meaning has the car been driven for semi extended periods of time prior or has it just been habitually a short tripper ?

What was the V@home before the drive.
I would charge it, let it rest. See how V looks like after resting. Set the baseline and then monitor the battery SOH

I didn't measure it unfortunately.

It's normally a short tripper, 3 miles to work and 3 miles back during the weekdays.

Weekends are when I do longer trips to go to shops and run errands.

I should start plugging in my solar tender in the rear cig. outlet.

But with my OCD, I wanna know if I should replace my battery or not or if 50% is considered "Okay"

[jsoto]

I'm thinking the SOC is just due to the short trips..
Not a fan of Exide batteries, but that's a different debate

[mr_robot]

Just measured it now, it was reading 12.08V with the multimeter directly on the battery posts.

[omodos]

Originally Posted by mr_robot

Just measured it now, it was reading 12.08V with the multimeter directly on the battery posts.

Hello ...ok wether link right at bottom applies to the e53 I am not sure but what caught my eye was this:


Battery changing

Any conventional lead calcium battery can always be replaced by an AGM battery.
Using an AGM battery does not require any alterations to be made to the vehicle electrical system.
Note: The AGM battery is recommended for "problem customers".
"Problem customers" encounter a high energy throughput through their batteries. This high energy throughput
is caused by stationary loads/consumers (TV, independent heating, etc.) and a bad use profile for the battery
("chauffeur operation", short-distance driving, "stop-and-go"). The use of an AGM battery is recommended for
these problem customers.

https://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/x_s...ery/page_2324/


I had some issues too, battery wasn't dropping to your Voltage mind you, had a dc socket in rear that was a bit parasitic, pulled fuse on this and amp draw whilst X5 was asleep was just on the good side of acceptable 0.5ma or 0.05ma if someone can chime in? To this day wondering if the battery for the tracker that was installed by previous owner was pulling power from this...anyway


As previous poster said go for basics first....

[jsoto]

Eliminate the variable . Charge it , hold it at float , let it rest and then have them load test it again. The minute they hook up the clamps , it should tell them V anyhow

[andrewwynn]

I had a battery that tested fine, held voltage fine, wouldn't start car after 30 minutes of running an iPhone or 8 minutes of hazard blinking. Must have been some internal fault.

If you didn't top off with charger or an extended drive than that needs to be done before you can do a proper load test.

The % charge from voltage is more of an art than a science, it's not an exact ratio and changes over time.