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#11
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Mind you, my exhausts don't go through the rear bumper - they turn down before the bumper and the bumper holes have covers. I bet this make things a LOT easier!
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
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#12
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The "moron" reference was saying that if the bracket is bolted but people cut it vs unbolt they are morons.
I think it would be possible to bend the stainless hook to release if you did the drop exhaust method. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#13
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So my new CV Drive axle came in today. The clicking had gotten really frequent lately so I was refraining from driving it as my daily driver. Then I worked on it this weekend, putting a new old level indicator in, and I drove it around over the weekend. Still had some clicking but not as bad as it had gotten. Drove it to work today and after work, I ran some errands and it's dead silent, no clicking. It was clicking when I drove it home last night.
Does this give anyone reason to pause it putting the new CV Axle in? Or does it confirm that it's probably the CV joint. I haven't been around a lot of CV joints but if I remember correctly, CV joints would certainly give the clicking noise and I also thought that it was hit or miss early in the failure cycle, so you might hear it one day and not the next until the level of failure was pushed beyond a point then it would make noise all the time. Am I remembering my symptoms wrong? Hold off on installing it or definitely need to install it? Any thoughts? |
#14
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It's pretty rare for a rear CV to fail - they don't have the dynamic load from turning that the front CVs carry. Possible though.
To change the rear, you'll likely need to drop the rear bumper so you can lower the exhaust off all the rear hangers. This will give you sufficient access to drop the drive shaft (CV axle) out. This is what I did when changing a rear wheel bearing (although as mentioned earlier, I don't have to remove the bumper to lower the exhaust on my 3.0d). It won't cost you anything to wait a few more days and see if the clicking returns...
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
#15
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However, I don't know what else it could be at this point. I've had the brakes off a couple times now and I don't see anything that's rubbing or hitting. Yesterday when I was under it, I noticed the aluminum heat shield around the exhaust was ripped and mangled in one place back by the rear differential. I thought for sure I had found the issue, the heat shield rubbing on the drive shaft. It wasn't rubbing but I did bend it all around trying to get some more room. When I drove it, it still clicked so that wiped out that theory. For me, it's the axle, the wheel bearing, or the brakes. Not much else it could be, right? |
#16
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A crumb of rust between the rock shield and the rotor can make a periodic sound (click/squeak/tap) that could come and go. Mine would "chirp" occasionally until I figured it out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#17
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Did you fix it? was finally the CV or something else?
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E70 - 3.0si & F10 - 535ix Previous Cars: E34 - 525i, E39 - 530i, E60 - 530i |
#18
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To test bearing put a spare tire on, it loads the opposite race and with either eliminate three noise or make it horribly worse.
I got rust between my dirt shield and rotor but that should clear when you remove the rotor. I'm thinking that more likely the parking brake shoe is catching on the groove worn in the inside of the rotor. You'd have to remove the rotor and trim off the edge of the shoe to fix the issue (or turn the inside of rotor). Swap left and right rear rotor may confirm.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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