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P0430 Catalytic Converter
Check Engine Light is ON with the dreaded P0430 Code Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2). Here are my Questions. 1. Can the rear exhaust manifold be removed without removing the front exhaust manifold first? The plan is to remove all nuts from top, then twist/turn the manifold down to clear. Can it be done? 2. Is Bosal replacement catalytic converter any good? Thanks for any suggestions you can offer. |
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2001. 3.0i??? Ohhh....nooooo! Sell it imediatelly and get 3.0d or at least 4.4i! 3.0i takes almost the same fuel like big engines and drives like a pregnant cow from 0-100! Even diesel goes better than 3.0i! Get fl diesel from 2004.chip it up and u will get about 250hp! Throw away catalysator! Cut off rear mufflers or just make mufflers empty and sound will be like 4.8is! For diesel it goes like a rocket from 0!
Here u can hear sound inside my office for short moment: https://youtu.be/PH_XXzIGJE4 At first u will need to take off the front any way (not sure) u have to take off 'metal plate' at front! |
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2002 BMW X5 4.6is |
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Greatest country in the world
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All possible in Texas. But that is not the point.
The real problem is that an OEM-style replacement manifold/cat combo costs ~$300 for one because of the ridiculous high mounted integrated cat to make ULEV certification. This is likely at least 1/10th or more of the value of most 3.0s still in operation. And it only returns you to stock, which as our Latvian friend points out, isn't ideal. I have been trying to figure out how to do headers and bullet cats for both sides (if one cat goes out, the other cannot be far behind), but everything I can come up with is custom and requires welding. But it comes in under $300. Did you make sure your oxygen sensors are outputting normally by checking the PIDs? Does it smell terrible and have a hard time making RPMS over about 2500? If the 02 sensors are good and your cat really is dead, then changing just the one may be the cheapest but possibly not the easiest option. Sorry I can't answer the important questions about getting the rear manifold off without taking off the front. I'm going to do both.
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2001 E53 3.0 5pd |
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Sidebar - ground level smog via half-burned hydrocarbons, N0x and S0x is all bad and carcinogenic. Catalytic converters are good and the right one doesn't hinder performance. Manifold design can, but to be honest the 3.0 doesn't make any more useful power below 5k no matter what manifolds you have on it, particularly if you are pushing a 4500lb truck with it.
Do the world a favor and use working cats. No one's kids need cancer.
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2001 E53 3.0 5pd |
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Already have changed all four(4) oxygen sensors and codes keep coming up. I checked fuel trims STFTs and LTFTs they all looked good. The only thing I notice is that the B2O2S2 fluctuates which is a sign of failing catalytic converter. I have not tried Cataclean yet but I’m a little skeptical of its effectiveness and definitely will not be using lacquer thinner. Exhaust does not smell terrible at all and car runs beautifully. It is just this code keeps coming up after driving about 150 miles after I reset with PA Soft. I am very handy with tools and have a few tools at my disposal. I am leaning towards getting a universal catalytic converter and welding it myself (I have a MIG) but the price of the direct-fit Bosal (< $300 / piece) is not to far off from a universal one. I will have to remove rear exhaust header and see for my self if it is possible. Thx |
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I already removed that metal plate you are referring to when I change the front differential oil. I can't recall getting more room in getting to the exhaust manifold nuts from the bottom with that plate removed. I think it is a lot easier to remove these nuts from above by removing the huge windshield washer fluid tank out of the way then use a socket with short extension. I will have to make sure to hit the nuts with huge amounts of penetrating oil (few days prior). |
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If you have a MIG....
M50/M52 manifolds bolt to an M54 head, provided you use manifolds with a single flange, and they do not drop straight down from the head off cylinder 1 and collide with the A/C compressor. People have put earlier engine headers on E53, but the problem is clearance, as you already know, not really the flange. The thing about the flange is there are not studs/bolts in every hole on the E53 M54 head, so to get enough clamping, it is said, you have to use a single flange design and use all the fasters available.
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2001 E53 3.0 5pd |
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