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  #1  
Old 02-16-2019, 07:58 PM
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Here is the best method of removing the 3.0 engine mounts.

Link to video: https://youtu.be/t4XysqHoH08

Here it is, how to remove the engine mounts on a 2002 3.0. not enough information about this online and I refused to go down defeated today. My engine runs so much smoother in the car. I hope this helps anyone who is researching about this or needing to tackle this job. Your best bet is to remove each side engine bracket after you have unbolted the mounts and supported the engine with it raised. the biggest challenge is the driver side because of the lack of space you have due to the throttle body and other accessories getting to that point. It is completely doable without removing the throttle body as I did not as you can see in the video.

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Last edited by trentcdrums; 02-17-2019 at 08:40 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2019, 07:59 PM
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I took a video for better explanations. I will upload that shortly


https://youtu.be/t4XysqHoH08

Last edited by trentcdrums; 02-17-2019 at 08:39 PM. Reason: Here's the video link.
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2019, 10:32 PM
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I posted the engine bracket trick in bimmerfest E39 5-series forum.
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  #4  
Old 02-17-2019, 11:26 AM
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looking forward to the video!
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2005 X5 3.0i - 71k mi (9.2018) -> 81k (9.19) -> 100k 9.21
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SOLD : ( 2003 X5 3.0 - 177k mi (9.2018) -> 186k (9.19) -> 205k (9.21)
SOLD : ( 1997 328is Coupe - Hellrot Red
SOLD : ( 1988 528e w/ Bullseye s256 / MS2 Extra / GC Coilovers / Yukon Coils ~ 300+ HP
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  #5  
Old 02-17-2019, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russianblue View Post
looking forward to the video!
Added

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  #6  
Old 02-17-2019, 09:35 PM
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What about leaving the right side loosely connected when you raise the engine causing the engine to rotate giving the left side the room needed? It helped a bunch on my E46 doing it that way.
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
What about leaving the right side loosely connected when you raise the engine causing the engine to rotate giving the left side the room needed? It helped a bunch on my E46 doing it that way.
I am both of the passenger side completely and it still wouldn't even budge

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  #8  
Old 02-17-2019, 11:57 PM
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were your mounts bad? what is the typical service life of the mounts? noticeable stiffness or other gain with fresh mounts? seems like it’d be a worthy replacement similar to tension strut bushings bc the rubber ultimately weakens over time and creates slack in the drivetrain. but admittedly I am not sure, hence the question. comparing my 75k mi X w my 180k X the general ‘stiffness’ and the “lurch factor” off the line is MUCH greater in the newer car , which just feels livelier all around. I am thinking that engine mounts, tranny mounts, guibo and diff mounts all contribute to that.
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2005 X5 3.0i - 71k mi (9.2018) -> 81k (9.19) -> 100k 9.21
---------------------------------------------------------------------
SOLD : ( 2003 X5 3.0 - 177k mi (9.2018) -> 186k (9.19) -> 205k (9.21)
SOLD : ( 1997 328is Coupe - Hellrot Red
SOLD : ( 1988 528e w/ Bullseye s256 / MS2 Extra / GC Coilovers / Yukon Coils ~ 300+ HP
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Old 02-18-2019, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trentcdrums View Post
I am both of the passenger side completely and it still wouldn't even budge

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I think auto correct on your phone may be in play here but I really don't understand what you just wrote?
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  #10  
Old 02-18-2019, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
I think auto correct on your phone may be in play here but I really don't understand what you just wrote?
Yes talk to text fail. I meant to say that I had went on the passenger side and it would not budge but I figured it out here already as you can tell.

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