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#21
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The coolant lines I removed first, by reaching in at arms length blindly - one from front, lying on ground, and other from other side of wheel well, lying under the vehicle. Was then able to pull them up and out of the way a bit. I did not remove the small inner liner that is behind the front strut. It was much more difficult to get the back bolt back on, as there's also a metal spacer in there between the compressor and where the bolt screws into the engine. A lot of scraping up the arms.. and patience.
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2006 E53 4.4 - bought July 2018 2005 E53 3.0 - drowned in Cyclone Mechunu May 2018 2006 E53 3.0 - sold South Africa June 2017 |
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#22
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Thanks for that info, I would love to know how you accessed the bolt, especially with a normal spanner, it literally seems impossible on the E53.
I just can’t get in properly, from the front the engine mount is in the way, from the side the frame is in the way, from above the block is in the way, and from below various lines and metal piping is in the way. I’ve disassembled absolutely everything that can be removed from the side of the engine, washer bottle, dipstick out, transmission cooler and all wheel plastics, fan etc and I still can’t access it. Did you have a special long shifter or angled or anything special to undo it? I certainly won’t be replacing that bolt, the two front are sufficient and I don’t want to ever go through this again ! |
#23
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Have you tried accessing that bolt with an s-spanner? I had such seemingly impossible access issues with a couple of bolts while doing the alternator bracket seal. An s-spanner came to the rescue of which I myself was surprised after almost giving up. There was only one correct angle that just accessed the culprit bolts and with sufficient space (just a few mm) for the spanner to undo them. The s-spanner may need a little modification such as bending one end. Give it a shot.
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'05 E53 X5 4.4i, '97 E39 528, '07 E92 335i, '16 F86 X6M. Last edited by X5only; 03-10-2019 at 08:56 PM. |
#24
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Quote:
I looked at the geometry and I have some bad news for you, the two front bolts will act as a fulcrum and torque the back of the compressor away from the block. If you choose to leave out the bolt I would work out a suitable replacement like cut the head off the bolt, use as a pin to lock the position, then install something to push the back of the compressor against the block. You mentioned one direction the engine mount is in the way. I changed five recently on a Volvo. By now I'd have removed that engine mount to get at the bolt. I have a set of stubby wrenches that come in quite handy in these tight space situations. Get the sucker on there then use a big socket extension and a hammer to get it moving.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#25
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update: read this page
It says you have to 'remove steering gear cover top right'. I'm not 100% sure if this is talking bout a right-hand-drive car, not sure what steering gear would be in the way on the right side of the car on a LHD car. That is from workshop manual for an X70, but i've read other posts of somebody mentioning having to move steering gear to get to the back bolt on that sucker.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#26
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Good update, well sort of anyway!
I’ve managed to crack the rear bolt, I’m going to picture how I did it and the tools and area used to access it. As I’m in Australia it’s a RHD vehicle so the steering shaft etc is all in the way on the A/C side too. I’m headed out now to see if I can find some tool but feeling like there is at least a glimmer of hope now. Will keep you updated Last edited by X5F; 03-11-2019 at 06:57 AM. |
#27
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Quote:
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#28
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I have attached some pics of the tool I used to get to the bolt, I have not managed to undo it as yet, just crack it, I need a ratcheting deep socket if such a thing exists, or a deep ratcheting spanner. Flexible ones are useless for this job.
The only usable access point is also shown, as is the location of the bolt from underneath the car. The underneath of the compressor is also the best way to get tools to the rear bolt, but it is very limited with the engine mount centimetres from the compressor. Day 7 and the bolt is still not out |
#29
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Quote:
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'05 E53 X5 4.4i, '97 E39 528, '07 E92 335i, '16 F86 X6M. |
#30
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04 4.4 A/C Compressor Removal
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA1.../dp/B00C0VSNKQ
https://www.amazon.com/Ginode-Extens.../dp/B07BDLJWRS https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6D.../dp/B00BRKN63U Those are some of my must have goto tools for car work. The last one I call my "Dr Seuss" ratchet because it's just so weird looking. I've often found myself having to turn the opposite way of normal (righty loosey) because I've done a u-turn and I'm reaching around a part and back towards myself. Here's an exact example: putting in the E14 bolts that hold the rear axle bearing in. Apparently nobody makes or sells that tool anymore; crying shame it's one of the best tools ever made for working on an engine! The key ingredient is that the head pivots from the CENTER of the head! Not being offset means it fits almost anywhere, you don't need room for the offset before the flex of a normal flex socket! It is like 15" long. It has a "T handle" as well because often it ends up being mostly straight and you need to "twist" the handle to turn the head.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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