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  #1  
Old 03-13-2019, 12:59 PM
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what maintenance items while core support/radiator are out?

Picked up a 05 X5 3.0 with 120k miles. I do all my own repairs but am coming from the VW/Audi world. This is my first BMW. I acquired it with some front end damage so I've already pulled the bumper and core support off. Going to replace the a/c condenser and probably the radiator.


What type of things should I do while I've got easy access to the front of the engine?



The obvious are the accessory belt, tensioner, etc.. Figured I'd do the water pump. I'm highly tempted to do the a/c compressor because the condenser got a hole in the accident so I don't know if the compressor works. I've got a guy who does compressor rebuilds for good prices and I'd hate to put everything back together and later find out it doesn't work. The plastic engine fan took some damage so I'll be doing the fan and I figure I should replace the fan clutch too.



The power steering reservoir is covered in crud, I've heard this is common? Should I just replace the reservoir and clamps?


Headlights- they appear to be self leveling, does that mean Xenon?


Do you guys have anything like the VCDS/Vagcom software we have for VWs?


I will be buying a Bentley manual.
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  #2  
Old 03-13-2019, 01:06 PM
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If it doesnít look newish the thermostat. Many people will replace all the coolant hoses when doing a coolant system refresh.

INPA is the bmw software you are looking for. I hate windows i hate old shitty dos software so I bought a Foxwell NT510 which has done everything Iíve needed that INPA is used for but canít code convenience functions.

Unless the AC was running at the time of the accident I doubt the compressor was damaged however if the system was open read up on what needs to be done with the dryer and expansion valve especially if itís a variable one.


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  #3  
Old 03-13-2019, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
If it doesnít look newish the thermostat. Many people will replace all the coolant hoses when doing a coolant system refresh.

INPA is the bmw software you are looking for. I hate windows i hate old shitty dos software so I bought a Foxwell NT510 which has done everything Iíve needed that INPA is used for but canít code convenience functions.

Unless the AC was running at the time of the accident I doubt the compressor was damaged however if the system was open read up on what needs to be done with the dryer and expansion valve especially if itís a variable one.


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+1 and your hoses.
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Old 03-13-2019, 01:27 PM
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I wouldn't replace the wp and thermostat strictly due to having the radiator off. Access to both is very good with the radiator in place (simply unscrew/remove the fan). The fact that the coolant is already drained would be a stronger argument for me, but I would only replace them if I was confident they were original or they were replaced with cheap aftermarket parts.

ISTA-D is a newer version of INPA that functions well on modern Windows operating systems. I use mine on a Win10 Pro laptop. I find it much more intuitive than INPA. There's a whole forum on bimmerfest dedicated to software/coding.

I have come to the conclusion that BMW hoses are of very high quality, so I no longer replace them preemptively. In fact, you can buy o-ring kits from a guy on ebay and simply replace the sealing o-rings to prevent leaks. My '99 e46 still has mostly original hoses in place and they feel/look fine.

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  #5  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attacking Mid View Post
I wouldn't replace the wp and thermostat strictly due to having the radiator off. Access to both is very good with the radiator in place (simply unscrew/remove the fan). The fact that the coolant is already drained would be a stronger argument for me, but I would only replace them if I was confident they were original or they were replaced with cheap aftermarket parts...
I agree with this. Some things that appear to be buried deep are actually only hidden by 10 plastic pieces that can be removed in about 5 minutes total.

And the fan may appear to be a big blockage / difficulty. And it kind of was for me the first time I took mine off. Bought a special tool, etc. on eBay. But now that I've figured it out, I use only my 1-1/4" open end wrench and rubber mallet to remove it. I use antiseize on the threads and reinstall using only the wrench (nothing but the belt to resist, limiting torque); that way it comes off easily the next time. The only tough part is re-starting the threads for reinstallation, but even that is a skill that can be learned and improved.

So in general, I would evaluate replacement using careful consideration of how difficult it is to get to things. And some are easier to get to than you might first think. Even coolant drain and refill is pretty easy, using the radiator drain plug and after removing the temp sender in the lower radiator hose.

I replaced my original radiator at about 186k miles, and it was still working fine. My upper radiator hose blew (a hole wore through in the upper plastic fitting) around that time. BTW, one big issue I had was that I had many service records, but some repairs were not actually done (poor PO was ripped off time and time again by dealer and indy alike), and sometimes things were replaced and others not replaced, making no sense - i.e., no honest logical person would choose to replace part A and not part B, yet they would do that. The PO had the dealer replace the whole CCV system, lower radiator hose, reservoir, etc. as part of a huge service, not long before I bought the car, yet they left the original upper radiator hose in there.
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Old 03-13-2019, 04:31 PM
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I liked the idea of doing the thermostat housing since on the VWs that's an item that always cracks and breaks. That being said the one on this on looks to be in really good shape.

Here's how the power steering reservoir looks.
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  #7  
Old 03-14-2019, 04:24 AM
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Since you're back in the land of the big PX get oil eater as it's nontoxic and biodegradable and will remove all oil/grease without scrubbing. Just keep it off glass, hot aluminum and asphalt unless you want bare rocks. A clean bay is the best way to start and keep an eye on things.

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Old 03-14-2019, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petebert View Post
Here's how the power steering reservoir looks.
A lot of people replace them - they're not expensive. I replaced one once, but it still weeped. Yours looks like th accumulation of many years of having no one ever wash it or wipe it down. Most any time I'm under the hood, I'll wipe off the little bit of weepage, so it never gets anything like yours.

If that was mine, I'd hit it with the power washer at the car wash, then wipe it off with a rag and see how it does going forward. You may want to do a few drain/fills to (mostly) change out the PS fluid anyway.

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  #9  
Old 03-14-2019, 08:46 AM
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On the Power Steering
Replace both hoses (they provided their full life by now). Replace the reservoir with a ZF branded one. You will need three new clamps as well (two at the reservoir and one down by the pump) Flush out all the old fluid and add in new. Fluid color tells you what you need. Green or red stuff! Red= ATF+4 for example. I personally use Valvoline Syn ATF+4 from Auto Zone. When your new reservoir gets a few years on it, you can just replace the seal on the lid.

Like what has been posted before, this reservoir has a "weep hole" in the spin on lid and vents the mist on the side. A quick wipe every time your under the hood solves the issue. Your vehicle looks like it operated under a closed hood policy, "What happen there is not important". Kinda like a coffin...once in closed forever. Typical lack of maintenance and interest by a previous owner. Normal.

On the cooling system

I would disagree with others if you plan on long term ownership. Do it all now once and you will have peace of mind that all is well. Rad, upper and lower hoses, water pump, Thermostat, expansion tank, check the other heater hoses while you are in there too. Belts, w/p pulley (cracks) idler, and tensioners. All go bye bye.

Tip: Check the block under the pump/thermostat for pitting BEFORE reinstalling the pump. clean all areas with sand paper. Flush block when open. Lots of examples on this pitting issue posted. All from poor maintenance and improper coolants being used. Use BMW anti freeze only is recommended.
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Last edited by StephenVA; 03-14-2019 at 08:56 AM.
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  #10  
Old 03-14-2019, 12:00 PM
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One disagreement with above; use green scotch brite "scrubbie" pad vs sandpaper to clean all sealing surfaces, it has a finer abrasive so will make for a smoother surface.

As others have noted, it's not difficult to pull the fan and shroud to get in to replace the thermostat or water pump, if you have an alternative car to drive when those parts fail, I would personally wait to replace them. If they appear to be original, I would maybe buy the thermostat to have on hand, I'd even keep it in the trunk next to the spare tire and bring a 1-1/4" wrench with me on long trips (to remove the fan): only "snug" the fan nut and you can remove with 1-1/4" wrench and a hammer.
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