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Old 07-07-2019, 08:00 PM
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3.0 M54 Hard Start or Long Crank when Warm

I didn't see much about this problem here on Xoutpost, so I thought I'd share my findings to help others who encounter this problem.

The issue is that the engine starts fine when cold. It will also start fine if driven for a while, shut off, then restarted relatively soon (say, less than 30 minutes). If you drive the vehicle, shut it off, then try to start it after a while (say, 2 hours), it cranks and cranks before starting. It helps a little to push the pedal to the floor. It can also run rough for a few seconds once it starts.

If you're having these symptoms frequently, the issue might be a leaking injector. What happens is that as the vehicle sits for a while, the pressure inside the fuel rail causes the faulty injector to drip fuel into the intake port. When you go to start the vehicle after sitting for a while, there is too much fuel resulting in a flooded condition.

When the vehicle is cold, the excess fuel has had time to evaporate. When the vehicle has only been off for a few minutes, it hasn't had time to leak enough fuel into the intake port. The problem only arises when it sits long enought to leak but not long enough to evaporate off.

One way to diagnose which injector is leaking is to pull the fuel rail with the injectors still attached, pressurize the rail by turning the key to position 2, then watch the injectors to see which one(s) drips. It may help to put a paper towel under each injector to help give visual clues.

There was a running change in the injector part number about November, 2004 (so part way into 2005 model production). The older injectors (like mine) had a known problem where they would leak externally in bitter cold conditions. Apparently, Siemens Deka re-designed the injector to solve that problem, so later 2005's and all 2006 X5's with 3.0 engines have the new injectors. I don't know if the internal leak is associated with the external leak problem, but I'm guessing the problems are related. Regardless,
I decided I wanted the newer style injectors.

Rather than pay about $80 each for six new injectors, I watched Ebay for a used rail/injectors combo that came out of a 2006. I got one for $80 and there's a date code on the rail if you look carefully to confirm you have the newer rail (and presumably the newer injectors). There is also a year code on the side of the injectors. My new/used injectors had 05T vs. the 04T on my original injectors.

You'll want to get new orings for the injectors. I cleaned the used injectors externally, installed new orings, and now my X5 starts every time like it should.

Interestingly, the previous owner must have had a problem with the number 6 injector (rearmost), as it was a newer injector with the new part number and a 10T date code vs. the 04T date code on all the others. I'll keep it for a spare. If you buy a new replacement injector, it will be silver/unpainted rather than black. Even the 2006 injectors I received were painted black and were indistinquishable from the older injectors other than the 05T vs. 04T code molded into the blue plastic.

Anyway, hopefully this post will be of help to anyone suffering with a long crank when warm problem.

AM.
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E53 2004 3.0 M54 AT Toledo Blue with Gray Leather
E83 2008 3.0 N52 AT Silver Gray Metallic with Black Vinyl
E46 1999 2.8 M52TU 5MT Black with Tan Leather 250K+ miles (Sold, but not forgotten)
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Old 07-08-2019, 01:38 AM
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That's a fantastic share!


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