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  #21  
Old 12-19-2020, 09:23 PM
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No. That would be an open. Would make not work wouldn't blow fuse
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  #22  
Old 12-19-2020, 09:26 PM
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Yes, forget about the multimeter for now and get yourself a test light.
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  #23  
Old 12-19-2020, 09:47 PM
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Test light will not help testing fort short of hot to ground. The fuse is blown so there will be no power for test light
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  #24  
Old 12-20-2020, 12:48 PM
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You replace the old fuel pump with a new fuel pump and now it is blowing fuse 47? Did the old fuel pump blow fuse 47 or don't you know? Could be a BNFP (Bad New Fuel Pump). Did you bench test the old fuel pump to see if it worked? Put an amp clamp on the battery but don't start the engine and turn it to the run position and see how much amps the fuel pump is drawing or the short is drawing. The short will draw more amps than the fuse in order to blow it.
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  #25  
Old 05-21-2021, 09:57 PM
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Old fuel pump was dead.


However, still blowing fuse 47. Does anyone know where ground X492 is--it is the ground for the fuel pump, among other things.
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  #26  
Old 05-22-2021, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lo_jack View Post
Old fuel pump was dead.


However, still blowing fuse 47. Does anyone know where ground X492 is--it is the ground for the fuel pump, among other things.


A poor ground won't casue a fuse to blow, however. The wiring on the positive side is of more interest. Might need to trace that out, looking for chaffing or shorts to ground. The fuel pump wiring from the relay in the eBox runs from under the bonnet (hood) all the way to the fuel pump under the back seat, so lots of locations that could be an issue...
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  #27  
Old 05-22-2021, 01:51 AM
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Put a test light or buzzer across the fuse terminals and watch/listen as you follow and wiggle the suspect wiring.
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  #28  
Old 05-22-2021, 03:22 PM
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Ok, just for funzies, I replaced the fuel filter, which has been in there for potentially tens of thousands of miles and an even longer time, fermenting old gasoline into muck.

The gas is a mix of pretty old with stabilizer and fresh premium.
I put a new fuse in 47, put the connector back on the pump and put the key to start.


Miracle of miracles, the new fuel pump starts humming.

I did this a few times to see if it would pop the 47 fuse again. Nope. Always primes the pump.

So I pressed my luck and turned it over--and it worked. Thanks for the ideas, everyone.
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  #29  
Old 05-22-2021, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lo_jack View Post
Ok, just for funzies, I replaced the fuel filter, which has been in there for potentially tens of thousands of miles and an even longer time, fermenting old gasoline into muck.

The gas is a mix of pretty old with stabilizer and fresh premium.
I put a new fuse in 47, put the connector back on the pump and put the key to start.


Miracle of miracles, the new fuel pump starts humming.

I did this a few times to see if it would pop the 47 fuse again. Nope. Always primes the pump.

So I pressed my luck and turned it over--and it worked. Thanks for the ideas, everyone.
The old fuel pump was dead and because it wasn't spinning, it just drew a greater load on the circuit until it blew the fuse. Had that happen to me on an Audi Quattro 4000 CS, except it wasn't a fuel pump, it was the radiator fan motor, and being the stupid Germans engineering that everyone talks about, they didn't put the radiator fan motor on a fused circuit, but wired it directly to battery B+. The wire harness was the fuse for that circuit and it melted the wires in that harness.
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2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD

Last edited by upallnight; 05-23-2021 at 09:53 AM.
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  #30  
Old 05-22-2021, 09:45 PM
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X5 at least has 50A fuse in the aux fan ckt.
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