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  #1  
Old 08-31-2019, 11:25 PM
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central locking problem

the rhd which is the drivers door in oz wont lock with the central locking i changed the mechanism still dosn't work so checked fuse nothing obvious any suggestions
thanks
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  #2  
Old 09-01-2019, 03:08 AM
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Check the internals of the drivers door master switch - look for water damage. These units control a number of fuctions and are prone to water damage (when the window is down).
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Old 09-01-2019, 04:01 AM
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Do you mean the actuator it self ? Don get what you mean by master Switch ?
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Old 09-01-2019, 04:06 AM
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This module...



It contains a bunch of circuitry that controls most of the functions on all doors, including windows and locks. Water damage can cause a few different faults.
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Old 09-01-2019, 05:32 AM
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bugger so if this component is playing up it can effect the drivers door central lock because it seemed fine before except the light didnt turn on in it and now now it only opens the drivers window can i fix it or dos it have to be replaced ?
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Old 09-01-2019, 05:34 AM
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Depends what's wrong with it - or even if that's the fault. It has data communication chips etc. Inside, along with some small relays etc. - can be repaired by technicians etc.
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Old 09-01-2019, 05:43 AM
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i can get another one for a hundred bucks but im sick of throwing money and still the same problem also the ones on ebay have an extra button to fold in the mirror
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Old 02-16-2020, 12:14 AM
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Reviving this thread ... Sounds like I have the same problem, and will try to fix it vs. replacing the module.

Trying to fix some problems with central locking on my US 2001 3.0i.

These problems mostly started, I think, when I dropped the driver's door window switch cluster onto the ground, while removing the door inner panel. If only I had 3 hands at the time ...

So jumping to the conclusion here, I'm thinking something is wrong in there and am soliciting ideas on what to look for as I take it apart.

Symptoms:
windows all work perfectly
key remotes do not work at all, even after recharging batteries and multiple attempts at reprogramming (which I have done successfully a few times before this failure)
key in door works perfectly to lock/unlock and open/close windows and sunroof
central locking button works to unlock all doors
central locking button FAILS to lock any doors. Never ever locks anything that way.
Alarm appears to set as it should. Flashing clown nose, etc.
Every single time setting out on a drive, after a few seconds of driving, I get a bogus "DOOR OPEN" warning message on the instrument panel, a gong sound, and then the warning goes away. (and of course, there is no door open). This occurs even with the switch assembly removed.

Debugging so far:
Nothing interesting with Foxwell NT520Pro
PA Soft gave 3 errors in ZKE Central Body Electric, including
Central locking mechanism short-circuited, driver’s door

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I can clear the faults and they come right back.

If I physically remove the part, the codes remain gone. And when locking/unlocking the driver's door, I need to use the key turning 90 degrees, vs. 45 when the power locks work.

If I swap in a different door lock actuator (different part), there is no change. So hopefully that rules out an issue with the DLA.

After a quick opening of the window switch control panel (or whatever the real name for it is), it looks to be really clean and nice in there. Nothing like the photos of corrosion elsewhere on this site.

Any ideas on what to look at / for?
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Last edited by oldskewel; 02-18-2020 at 11:32 PM.
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  #9  
Old 03-03-2020, 04:16 PM
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Answering my own question immediately above ...

Opening the window switch cluster showed it mostly looking great. Only a single solder joint in the very corner (I'll guess the lowest corner, where any condensation would collect) of one of the boards looked discolored. So I re-did that one, with no change.

Then I bought a replacement switch cluster on eBay. BTW, when doing that, there are (I think) two different types that use the same part number - one has a little button next to the mirror left-right selector, which I believe is for parking the mirrors. So I made sure to get one without that button, matching mine. Came out of a 2001 X5 too, just like mine.

The eBay replacement performed even worse. LOL. With that one in, it had all the problems from before, PLUS the key in the driver's door lock would no longer electrically actuate anything - door / doors / windows / and sunroof, as my original switch cluster still allowed to work. So I swapped my window switch cluster back in.

So then I went to town with INPA and Foxwell. The Foxwell turned out to be really effin good in this area. Active tests on lock / double lock / unlock failing on the rear doors, being flaky on front doors, for example. Live data clearly telling me that it thought the driver's door was always open was the strongest clue that if nothing else there was a fault in the driver's door DLA.

The plastic bracket on my original DLA that holds the end of the cable housing from the inner door latch handle had cracked many months ago. Epoxy failed to repair that, but a year or so earlier, another member here had kindly mailed me his old DLA after he saw my thread on the surgical motor repair on my DLA, hoping I could use his old one some day. So I had swapped in his, and now I know that even though it appeared to work fine at that time, it has some internal electrical problem that causes all of the problems I reported.

Still of course having my original DLA on the shelf in the retired parts museum, I took the time to do a more careful mechanical repair of that bracket, using steel and epoxy. Now that is back in, and EVERYTHING works again - central locking, remotes, etc.

And weirdly, everything now works perfectly with either my original window switch assembly, or the eBay one, that had been previously thought to have a problem.

Amazing (and sad) how a single failure in that one DLA could cause so many problems throughout the car. For example, watching the weakness of the other DLAs during the active testing had almost convinced me that they would need replacment soon, but with the original driver's DLA back in place, they work flawlessly.

Good thing BMW did not design the internet.
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