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  #1  
Old 09-25-2019, 02:07 PM
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Battery died dead. After recharge key won't start it

This is the SECOND time this has happened! First time it happened, I had an old batter that was on it's last legs. After it wouldn't take jumps anymore I got it fully charged at Autozone. When I popped it back into the truck, the key that had previously been starting it would no longer. Grabbed my spare key and it cranked it right up. Eventually the battery died. Replaced it with a new one just recently. During the 7 day heat wave this previous summer, the truck sat in my driveway unstarted so I guess this zapped the juice from the NEW battery. Took this one out and again had Autozone charge it. After popping it back into the car, THE SPARE KEY NOW WON'T START IT!

I find it outrageous that you have to trek to a dealer and pay a ridiculous amount to have a key reprogrammed to start your car after the battery has been taken out. Does ANYBODY have a reprogramming, do it yourself method??
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Old 09-25-2019, 03:19 PM
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Just for clarification...are you saying that the "same" old battery has become deeply discharged and your removed it to recharge the battery? Then once the old battery was reinstalled, it still didn't start with the key your were using, then you went and got your spare key, then the vehicle started?

Did you ever attempt to start the vehicle using the other key that you assumed didn't work anymore?

If the current battery installed in the vehicle has twice become so deeply discharged that it wouldn't start...determine how old that battery is and perhaps consider that it is D O N E...and it's time for a new battery.

When the vehicle doesn't start...have you unlocked the cluster to do TEST 9 to see what the vehicle battery's voltage is? If it is below 11.89 volts...and the battery is old (like 4-6 years old)...this could be the reason for the no start...and not the remote key.

EWS is the immobilizing system that inhibits starting of the vehicle...and it operates on a totally different frequency and uses different control module vs the central locking and arming of the alarm system (FZV & DWA). Can you still perform FZV & DWA using the remote key (doors lock/unlock and the alarm siren system is activated/deactivated)? When DWA is activated, the litter red clown nose (DWA status LED) illuminates.
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Old 09-25-2019, 03:37 PM
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To clarify:

The first time this happened I had a very old battery in there. I would charge and recharge this battery before it finally died. The last time I charged it, I took it OUT of the truck and had it charged at Autozone. When I popped it back IN to the truck, no crank but everything else came on. Switched to my spare key and it cranked right up. As the battery was on it's last legs it finally died a few weeks later. Purchased a NEW battery. Took out the old and put in the new. Still using the spare key, I was able to fire it up with no problem. a few months later, during that week long heatwave, I was away so the truck sat in that searing heat all week. When I got back and tried to fire it up, click, click, click. Jumped it and still got click, click, click. Pulled it out, took it to AZ and let them charge it up. Put it back into the truck, went to start it with the spare key and was met with silence...AGAIN. Tried the original key, same silence.

As for the cluster test for voltage, can you walk me through that?
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Old 09-25-2019, 03:38 PM
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Oh, and to add...called the BMW dealership and was told to bring key in AND purchase a BMW battery so that they can program the key to the battery. That doesn't sound right AT ALL.
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Old 09-25-2019, 03:40 PM
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And to further answer your questions, the key works with locking/unlocking/alarm set/alarm-disarm
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagarundi View Post
Oh, and to add...called the BMW dealership and was told to bring key in AND purchase a BMW battery so that they can program the key to the battery. That doesn't sound right AT ALL.
You're correct, it doesn't sound right. There is no BMW key that is programmed to "the battery". There ARE 3 systems that the e53 remote key operates (EWS/FAV/DWA) and they are 3 distinct and separate systems that work in tandem or conjunction with each other...but NONE of them are programmed to the car's battery.

EWS (the immobilizing system) shuts down the starter & ignition and communicates over a 125 KHz AM radio signal between the DME/EWS control module, and the Ring antenna (located around the ignition cylinder). The EWS transponder chip inside the remote key needs to have the same ISN (individual serial number) as all of the other EWS components to start the car. (BTW, I don't think this is your issue...to me, it sounds like you have a battery drain issue, thus a low battery will NOT start the car, but will illuminate the interior lights, horn, play the radio etc.)

FZV (central locking) & DWA (anti-theft alarm siren system) transmits a 315 Mhz RF signal to an aerial in the rear left cargo window, then onto an amp/receiver then finally up to the GM where it sends commands to lock/unlock and arm/disarm the alarm siren, hood sensor, interior motion sensor, and tilt sensor. The key is programmed to the GM to operate these two features.




I need to know what your instrument cluster set-up is to be able to give you instruction on how to unlock it. You don't have a sig that identifies what e53 you have. Do you have the high cluster or the low cluster? The instructions are different for each because the LOW cluster only has one button (for the trip odometer) on the left side...where as the HIGH cluster has TWO buttons (the same trip odometer button on the left side & the Check Control button on the right side).


There are LOTS of videos on Youtube that show how to unlock a BMW's instrument cluster. Just type "unlock BMW instrument cluster" into a search box...and look for any e38/e39/e46/e53 and the procedure will be the same. But do take note of the slight difference depending on which cluster you have (low or high). Once unlocked...do TEST 9 to see what your X5's battery voltage is.


Again, if your X5's battery voltage is low (like 10.8v or lower) it doesn't have enough power to start the vehicle but can illuminate the interior lights which don't require a lot of power.


If you have jumper cables and someone with another vehicle with a 12 volt system...raise your hood, hook up the jumper cables to the actual jump start locations in the engine bay (make sure you use the negative hex bolt on the fender instead of guessing that something is truly grounded)...let your X's battery system stay hooked up for a good 5 minutes, then attempt to start it. If it starts, then the problem is your battery and not your key. Again, you have something that is draining the battery if it dies in just a couple of weeks.


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Last edited by Qsilver7; 09-25-2019 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 09-25-2019, 06:21 PM
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I have the 'high' cluster as there are buttons on either side of the steering column
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Old 09-25-2019, 06:54 PM
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just went out and jumped it for about 7 minutes. Still crank. I'd sure like those cluster instructions so that I can see what the batteries deal is
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Old 09-25-2019, 07:18 PM
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Your problem may not be the battery. It could be the ignition switch. I suggest having the battery load tested to verify it is good. A good battery sitting in the heat for a week should still have a full charge and start the engine normally. If heat was a problem with batteries the Texas roads would be empty in the summer. If the battery tests good and discharges in a week of not starting the engine you likely have something draining the battery. Autozone will load test the battery free of charge.
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Old 09-25-2019, 07:24 PM
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Okay, just came back from checking the battery from the high cluster. The voltage fluctuated between 11.6 and 11.7. This is way below the 12.3 and up that would turn the starter. I just put a battery charger on it and I'm going to walk the dog. I'll check on the battery in an hour or so and report back. As to the drain, it may very well be that the trunk wasn't fully closed and that light could've been on straight for several days and drained the battery.
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