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  #1  
Old 04-12-2020, 08:21 PM
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Door Carrier broken and flat battery

Hi Brains Trust,

As the title says, the drivers door carrier is broken, and now I have a flat battery.

So I can't get into the car to open the bonnet to charge the battery.

Any suggestions?

JG
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Old 04-12-2020, 08:46 PM
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If you have a trailer hitch you can backfeed power to the battery from the trailer connector. There is a way to hook the cable on the door handle carrier with a bent piece of wire or push it with a screwdriver I think I might have a video showing how to do that.
I want accidentally locked my key in the car when my drivers door handle carrier was broken and before somebody in Chicago figured out that I gifted them my car I figured out how to break in using a screwdriver by pushing on the cable of the doorhandle carrier. It helped greatly that I have the replacement doorhandle carrier to practice on.


I made a little hook out of some stiff brass wire that I could use to hook on the cable and pool rather than push with a screwdriver as well.

The concept is pushing sideways on the exposed inner part of the cable at the top where it meets the geared lever.

A long thin flat blade screwdriver maybe 3/16 inch wide goes through the hole that the handle comes through and you just need to find that piece of cable and push on it pretty firmly. You may have better luck fashioning a little hook on the end of a piece of stiff wire then wire maybe 1/16 to 3/32 diameter. Hook that wire on the cable and pole instead of push.
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Old 04-12-2020, 09:11 PM
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I believe that ^^^ method relies on you being able to manually unlock the door by turning the key 90* CCW. Hopefully your lock cylinder mechanism is intact.

A couple of other ideas you might consider, depending on which may be easiest for you. It seems that getting locked out is not so uncommon on these cars when that second failure hits before you get the first one fixed. Many different combinations and many different solutions:

(I have not done either of these two, nor have I done Andrew's)

- some people have been able to access one of the live 12V connections in the engine bay, from below. One is on the alternator, one is on the starter. Probably well hidden by the stiffening plate, but that can be removed. Connect 12V to that point, and your car will be powered again.

- standard break-in procedure of bending open the upper right (rear) corner of the driver's door. That may allow you to reach in with a hooked rod so you can pull the hood release. From there, you can apply 12V to the B+ jump port in the engine bay.

Having been in a similar spot, sometimes it helps to have options that require a little less magic skill although needing more simple steps.

Good luck.
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Old 04-12-2020, 10:40 PM
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Clever thought to pull hood release. You can do that though the grill as well you prob have to drill a small hole though the plastic shroud around the radiator but less likely to break something vs bending the door though I've done that more than a few times.

FYI home improvement stores now sell an air powered wedge meant for use in construction which is basically identical to the locksmith version for bending the car door.




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Old 04-12-2020, 10:47 PM
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On the m54, the starter is on top of the engine it will be easier to steal somebody else's X5 than get power there and the stiffening plate will be in the way of accessing the alternator.

I'm wondering however if one of the main power feeds is accessible under the car, I seem to recall bumping into a large red cable under my client's 328xi.

Unless you can turn the key 90° to unset the double lock you will not be able to open the door directly.
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Old 04-12-2020, 11:01 PM
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Sloved!!

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

andrewwynn's method worked.

Luckily we have an Anderson plug at the back (put on by a previous owner).

Connected that to jumper leads from our other car and Bingo - remote worked!

Battery is still dead. I have a replacement on the way. Will need to use this method again when that arrives, but now I know what to do.

Thanks again.
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Old 04-13-2020, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jughead028 View Post
Thanks for the quick replies guys.

andrewwynn's method worked.

Luckily we have an Anderson plug at the back (put on by a previous owner).

Connected that to jumper leads from our other car and Bingo - remote worked!

Battery is still dead. I have a replacement on the way. Will need to use this method again when that arrives, but now I know what to do.

Thanks again.
Just charge the battery via the Anderson connector while you wait for the replacement....
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Old 04-14-2020, 10:43 AM
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No point to recharge the battery that won't hold a charge when replacement is on the way.

Fix your DHC. Most often a steel cable tie is all you need to repair it.
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Old 04-14-2020, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
No point to recharge the battery that won't hold a charge when replacement is on the way.

Fix your DHC. Most often a steel cable tie is all you need to repair it.
I read that as a replacement DHC being on the way but yeah, a battery would be good too... assuming the cause of the drain is known (if other than an end-of-life battery).
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