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  #11  
Old 05-19-2020, 08:39 PM
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If I had to guess I would suggest you look at the CKP sensor. If you have a scope you can check the waveform voltage. peak to peak should be around 2 volts.
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:38 PM
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I was thinking about the ckp and considering the last sensor I replaced on this engine was the exhaust cam position sensor it is probably due and I think I'll order one along with a new pressure regulator.

Just did some testing and here's what happened.

First key on the pressure only came up to maybe 44. Second time 46 etc.

I turned the key off and on a few more times until I got to 50.

Car still took 2-3x the normal crank to start but did start.

Once started it ran ok. I didn't drive anywhere but I gunned the throttle even no load and the pressure dropped each stab of the throttle. Also As soon as pump not running the pressure immediately drops 3-4#.

Testing on my car I maybe saw 1-2# drop key off and I did see a little dip in psi on WOT, but not nearly as much.

The weird part was the hard start even after charging up to 50 psi but I couldn't see the gauge very well when I cranked. I'm leaving the gauge hooked up so I can see how it behaves after a day sitting and I'll video the start up to see what happens and can compare to mine but I'm confident the FPR has seen it's last days.

Thanks for the suggestion above CKP I've been considering that as a possible culprit from when I had long crank no ignition early on in this recent hiccup. It's due I'm going to order one.

I also think for $40 I'll get the filter as well but I'll cut the old one in half to see how it looks inside and based on that I'll get just FPR for my car.

Both mine and wife's are about 183000 avg miles and both are running lean so maybe a little bit of restriction in the filter is making that difference. Any luck I can punt on the MAF a bit.
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
If I had to guess I would suggest you look at the CKP sensor. If you have a scope you can check the waveform voltage. peak to peak should be around 2 volts.

I can read pTp with a multimeter also duty cycle and Hz. I think I'll compare wife's and mine if I can figure out where to stick a back test lead presumably in the eBox at the DME.

I had a fluke scope meter but it had a bad day in the rain and my plug in one is too much work.

I do want an iPhone connected oscope but I can't find one for line voltage for working on houses and most can't even handle 20v to work on cars.

Oscope fantastic way to test the likes of blower motor. Bad commutator bar shows up great years before you know it's bad.
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RocketyMan View Post
Interesting...they changed fuel filter designs between 2001 and 2003.

I just did the KL167 on my X the other day. GOTTA make sure to keep the lines in the right position.

ALSO!!!!...it's super easy to release the quick-connect clips. No special tool needed or anything.
The original version from the start of the production had normal hose clamps. They transferred to quick connection tubing and accordingly to different type of fuel filter in 4/2002. Usually these kind of things are simply done because the newer version is faster to install on the factory assembly line.
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:48 PM
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Unreliable cold starts; very long crank

https://youtu.be/IyRaz1q9HEM

Video including slow motion of a handful of WOT. Pressure dips about 4# each jab of the throttle.

Apologies for the blinking the overhead light is LED
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Old 05-19-2020, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
@80s: I don't think what you said is accurate with the relief valve for the siphon jet. I've watched the pump while running and fuel only flows from the siphon jet outlets normally. My understanding is that the pump provides perhaps 60psi, the pressure regulator moderates that to 50 and relieves the extra pressure and volume back to the siphon jets at approximately 15-20 psi .

I do not know if the check valve is at the pump or the pressure regulator.

The FPR shows as compatible with my model when attempting to buy either Amazon or fcp euro as well as a recent thread on xoutpost showed somebody changing the FPR piqued my curiosity.
Yes, there will be fuel at the syphon jets as long as the pump can overcome the fuel pressure (40 or whatever PSI)regulator, at that point the rail pressure will increase with increased flow to the point the syphon jet relief valve opens. Normally the exhaust side of the pressure regulator would go back freely to the tank and not be used for the syphon jets which is why this can be confusing. This is also why the pressure drops from the 50 to 40 as soon
as you turn the engine off.

Both the pump check valve and the fuel pressure regulator need to hold in order to maintain pressure when the engine is shut down.
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