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  #1  
Old 08-14-2020, 09:19 PM
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Getting ready to Timeser M54 for head bolts

The current configuration has 13.xx mm holes “countersunk” 6mm deep before the headbolt threads start. How does one keep the 6mm deep location when tapping for Timesert? The reamer OD seems a bit large to drill. Do I drill a 6mm deep hole a couple frog hairs larger than the top OD of the Timesert?
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Old 08-14-2020, 10:01 PM
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I am not sure which time-sert tool you are using. But I use (and own) Kit 1090 which includes an M54-specific drilling jig, alignment bushing, specialized step drill which drills out the old threads and leaves a proper countersink before tapping new threads.

You can do it, without kit 1090, but the kit makes it fool-proof.

I believe the exact drill size required for the M10 x 1.0. X 24mm inserts is listed in the data section on the time-sert web page.
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Old 08-14-2020, 10:31 PM
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I'd recommend using Mercedes bolts. No need for time-sert.

The thread on Mercedes bolts is here:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ed-some-advice
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Old 08-14-2020, 10:34 PM
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In other words, M54 head bolt is M10.
Some Mercedes head bolt is M11, which is a perfect solution for this.
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Old 08-14-2020, 11:54 PM
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Drill size for 11M-1.0 is actually spec at 10.0 vs 9.5 I will definitely use the 11mm head bolt idea but will try to find some 1.0mm pitch if I ever need to redo head rework on my M54.
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Old 08-15-2020, 04:22 AM
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I didn’t get the expensive kit with the guide plate and step drill. This suggests I will need to drill the step separately with a drill stop.
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Old 08-15-2020, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
In other words, M54 head bolt is M10.
Some Mercedes head bolt is M11, which is a perfect solution for this.
Installation of M11 bolts IS a solution, perhaps even a hack, but I am not sure it's perfect. Time-serts are better.

I have done 6-7 head gaskets on M54 (m52TU) engines. I have always used time-serts, and good quality, new, M10 head bolts.

The problems I have with the M11 bolts without time-serting:

-The overheat may have weakened the aluminum
-Aluminum block threads are pretty much a one-time use in an engine block
- They can strip easily after multiple torque sequences*
- M54 M10 head bolts are torque to yield (TTY) fasteners. Do the M11 have the same TTY characteristics?

I had seen that thread before. The issues I had with the thread:
- The OP re-used head bolts in one application- and we're taking his advice?
- I never saw an answer to the issue of a stripped M10 hole having a larger diameter Than the one needed for proper drilling/tapping of an M11 hole..
- nobody ever identified which Mercedes bolts to use.


* I recently had to re-do a head gasket job on my E53, 6 months after the first head gasket.. It was sure nice having secure time-serts in the head bolt holes to handle the second torque sequence.

Last edited by Effduration; 08-15-2020 at 09:50 AM.
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Old 08-15-2020, 10:55 AM
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Agreed the steel inserts best prob how BMW should have done from the factory. They know that aluminum bolts are single use but some how aluminum threads are ok for head bolts.

That said, 11mm is 25% more clamping force or in other words 25% below spec to achieve the same clamping force. You can achieve the same clamping force without TTY the trick is using the M10 TTY rules will possibly not achieve yield. This can mean different clamping force on the bolts. I would definitely do some tests on a bench first.
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:01 AM
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Of all the friends I know that used M11 head bolts, they are happy.
That's all I know.

Below is:

BMW E36 M50 11MM HEADSTUD CONVERSION DIY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCDT8Hwyr6Y
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:04 AM
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Another BMW M11 head bolts video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ilZE5h95nM
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