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Old 08-25-2020, 08:39 AM
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Steering Wheel Vibration

Having an intermittent problem with my steering and would welcome suggestions on resolution. Occasionally I get a vibration followed by a strong (one time unsafe) back and forth vibration on my steering wheel. Happens around 45 mph but if I slow down for a few minutes it goes away. Has happened maybe four times and have had it in to BMW twice and they cannot find anything wrong nor replicate; suspension is tight everywhere. Car has new tires and rebuilt CV shafts (by me) but I drove it about a 1,000 miles after this service before vibration started. Also has new rear lower control arms. Any thoughts? It's an '05 with about 250,000 miles, manual, well sorted. I've had it since almost new, bought as a CPO with 10,000 miles. Getting ready for my bimonthly SC to NJ home switch and wondering if I should take the other car. (That's a Porsche Cayenne GTS with a manual too. I prefer the X5 but my wife loves her Porsche.). Any thoughts or lines of investigation would be appreciated. I did not repeat the alignment or wheel balancing, that and a tire rotation are next.
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  #2  
Old 08-25-2020, 11:41 AM
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I had this happen to me but not in my X. It was in my Jeep Cherokee. It did have a slight lift.

What you explain is exactly the same thing that would happen. Unfortunately, we totalled it before I ever had it repaired. It is well documented on the internet. Take a look at a few sites and see what others are repairing. Sounds like your X is solid, but with that occasional issue, I'd take the Porsche.

Sorry this wasn't much help. Good luck and be safe out there!
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Old 08-25-2020, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomHart View Post
Having an intermittent problem with my steering and would welcome suggestions on resolution. Occasionally I get a vibration followed by a strong (one time unsafe) back and forth vibration on my steering wheel. Happens around 45 mph but if I slow down for a few minutes it goes away. Has happened maybe four times and have had it in to BMW twice and they cannot find anything wrong nor replicate; suspension is tight everywhere. Car has new tires and rebuilt CV shafts (by me) but I drove it about a 1,000 miles after this service before vibration started. Also has new rear lower control arms. Any thoughts? It's an '05 with about 250,000 miles, manual, well sorted. I've had it since almost new, bought as a CPO with 10,000 miles. Getting ready for my bimonthly SC to NJ home switch and wondering if I should take the other car. (That's a Porsche Cayenne GTS with a manual too. I prefer the X5 but my wife loves her Porsche.). Any thoughts or lines of investigation would be appreciated. I did not repeat the alignment or wheel balancing, that and a tire rotation are next.
Very stiff CV shafts can causing symptoms like this as interpreting a vibration. Usually when they are well lubed with the moly grease, they'll wear in place and begin to articulate smoothly. I've had this happen especially so with re-ground CV shafts installed. But the perceived vibration eventually went away after circa 500 miles.

In your case, I would get your wheels re-balanced since you mentioned a specific speed, therefore, I wouldn't necessary suspect your CV axles and new tires. I've have noticed before on a different vehicle with similar issue that eventually I needed to replace the tire because it had a ripped band or slightly bulged area. But it was a very old tire.

Maybe try rotating your rear axle tires with your front axle--granted you have the same size. See if that changes anything. Also when you are changing wheels around, VERIFY the flanges where the wheel mates up to the rotor is completely clean. Take a wire brush and make sure no excess buildup of any sort is causing the wheel to mis-align when bolting it up.

Just a few ideas...report back your findings.
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Old 08-26-2020, 01:46 AM
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a couple tests to determine where the issue is:

➀ gentle braking at 50-40 mph if you get shimmy in the wheel it’s the rear control arm (front axle)

➁ confirm control arm by on flat straight road at about 60-70 make a gentle s curve within your lane (best on the center lane of expressway so no crown) if you get 2-3 jiggles in the wheel right as you cross zero degrees that’s almost certainly rear control arms

➂ when going 3-5 mph, hit the brakes hard, and watch the wheels. If they move 1/2" or so backwards, it means the thrust bushings are shot.

That's all to exclude what I suspect toes problem is as I have the same:.

➃ outer CV joint. I developed a horrible shake in the steering wheel similar to the ➀ above but no braking just driving along and stronger than ever.

I knew my CV joint is shot (blown seal, clicks on hard turns) so I suspected the grease was worn out or the balls just were not in a good place so I pulled over and did 3-4 figure eights in a parking lot and sure enough, fixed it immediately.

That's my bet. You said you refurbished recently but I'm betting one didn't take.

-awr
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Old 08-26-2020, 09:51 AM
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One thing you might want to check is your front brake calipers and brake fluid. I've had issues with front calipers sticking which causes the steering wheel shake.



I think what happens when the caliper sticks is the brake pads do not release away from the rotor. This causes the rotor to heat up which may warp slightly and you start getting the steering wheel shake. If you stop driving and let the rotor cool for a few minutes it goes away.


Things you might want to do:

#1 Check your front brake pads for even wear. If it is uneven it could be a sticking caliper.


#2 Flush your brake fluid to potentially get rid of any crud in the piston cavity.



#3 Try compressing the front caliper pistons with a C clamp so that they fully retract. If there is any resistance or sticking then I'd definitely replace the caliper.


Hope that helps you out!
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Old 08-26-2020, 11:25 AM
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Firm brake at 70-80 will confirm or reject warped rotor.

I have worn control arms that self-repaired. (I think the boot tore, grease gone, ball joint loose, then rusted tight). I will cut in half to confirm when I do some post replacement autopsy. So it is possible to have come and go symptoms multiple ways.

That said I was used to for a long time having significant steering wobble from 50-40 braking every time, but twice in the past year it wobbled like crazy continuous at maybe 45-50mph until I pulled over and "exercised" the CV axles with some tight figure eights.

If you can get the symptom to repeat, you should try the figure eight test: if the shake immediately goes away it's the CV axle. (possibly the other joint if you only refurbished one); or if you replaced axles with some low-rent parts: premature failure.

Note: the OEM outer joints are about $70 at fcpeuro.com
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Old 08-26-2020, 11:32 AM
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Interesting concept of doing "figure 8s" to exercise the CV axles. Makes sense to get the balls to articulate more and move within the spindle cavity. I wonder tho if this will stretch the boot more and potentially rip it. My passenger side outer boot looks like it's ready to rip--but hasn't yet.
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Old 08-26-2020, 06:16 PM
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All excellent suggestions and appreciate the feedback. Interim update, made the trip north uneventfully with exception of wife complaining she won't have a Porsche to drive for a month. I remember the good old days when all we could afford were a couple of crap used cars, she doesn't. �� Will follow up on above and report back. I have a "feeling " it was something I did wrong with CV shaft and was planning on getting a set out of junkyard and rebuilding so will do that first and tackle rest over few weeks I'm in NJ with my tools. Stay tuned!
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Old 08-26-2020, 09:55 PM
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Steering Wheel Vibration

Buy some new lifetime warranty outer joints, rebuild the inner joint and boots it’s $70 for a new lifetime warranty joint from FCP euro.
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Old 08-27-2020, 01:52 AM
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Had the same vibration problem, and the culprit was the motor mount.
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