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  #21  
Old 09-05-2020, 05:21 PM
jac jac is offline
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Thanks all! You are all fantastic, you've all helped me a lot!

I went ahead and removed the alternator. I was able to release the tension on the tensioner pulley without having to remove the shroud and radiator fan, so that was welcome! I have the tool to remove that fan and I have done it a few times, but I honestly hate doing that. :-). Oh, and I was wrong on needing to use the T50. There is a welded nut on the bracket of the tensioner that I had not noticed (obstructed by the belt) which is what I was supposed to be using to move it. :-)

This is likely a cheap aftermarket unit because there are zero brandings on it! Zilch... Not even numbers or symbols on the metal. The plastic looks identical to the Bosch 120 model (with that little black plastic cover that is hiding a bolt next to the positive terminal. I don't remember replacing this alternator but then again I've had this car for 20 years and my records and memory aren't that good...

I compared the alternator to those in the photos in the posts recommended by @oldskewel and it is definitely NOT a Valeo.

I removed the plastic backing and it was super clean inside, not full of debris and dead insects like in one of those photos. Lol...

Anyhow, the voltage regulator screws were in REALLY tight. I had to use my impact to get them out. The regulator does have some numbers on it and doing a search on google, it seems those numbers match an aftermarket replacement for the Bosch voltage regulator. The images google shows for the Bosch regulator look identical to this one, minus the bosch logo and part number...

I think the brushes on the voltage regulator are ok though because they are only about 1/32" in size difference from each other and the brushes exert pressure when trying to mount the regulator back on.

So, I am tempted to just get a new alternator and call it a day. I see FCP Euro has the Valeo 140 Amps for $222...
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Last edited by jac; 09-05-2020 at 06:31 PM.
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  #22  
Old 09-05-2020, 08:14 PM
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Maybe to rule out a wiring issue external to the alternator, you could reassemble it and have it bench tested at PepBoys, etc. Hopefully it fails, to confirm you conclusion. Not much to lose other than the effort to do that.

I'd do the same thing in your case - just get a complete replacement. So much uncertainty for something with no brands on it - not worth the time to try to rebuild it.

BTW, I have seen this before - a part-by-part Chinese no-brand clone of an alternator - Bosch in this case, it seems. The benefit to that is that parts may be interchangeable with real Bosch ones. So if your replacement were a Bosch, and you like keeping old parts around, that dead one may prove useful one day.
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  #23  
Old 09-05-2020, 08:37 PM
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Ah... Good idea to get it bench tested. I will put it back together, it should not take more than 5 mins. I think there's a Pepboys around here.

Yeah. I hope it fails the tests too! :-). Thanks!
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  #24  
Old 09-05-2020, 09:45 PM
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Absolutely bench test even new / rebuilt.

Replaced doesn't mean fixed.
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  #25  
Old 09-05-2020, 09:59 PM
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That looks like a crap alternator and you have a couple of fried diodes so you are going to need a replacement.
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  #26  
Old 09-13-2020, 11:54 PM
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I received the replacement alternator and installed it. All good now! I can see the test voltage while running being 13.4 volts.

One interesting thing: I did take the new and old alternators to 3 different places for bench testing: O'reilly, AutoZone and Pep Boys. Only O'Reilly had the machine that supported either of the alternators. The O'Reilly's said that the old alternator was good, so I took it to a different O'reilly's just for kicks, and they said the same...

Anyway, whatever, I have a new one on there now.
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  #27  
Old 09-14-2020, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jac View Post
I received the replacement alternator and installed it. All good now! I can see the test voltage while running being 13.4 volts.

One interesting thing: I did take the new and old alternators to 3 different places for bench testing: O'reilly, AutoZone and Pep Boys. Only O'Reilly had the machine that supported either of the alternators. The O'Reilly's said that the old alternator was good, so I took it to a different O'reilly's just for kicks, and they said the same...

Anyway, whatever, I have a new one on there now.
13.4 is kind of low. I think you should typically be seeing 13.7 on the low end with 14.1 on the high end. What brand did you buy? Is it new or a rebuild?
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  #28  
Old 09-14-2020, 01:16 AM
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13.4 is fine depends on where you measure and how soon after the battery was pulled down from starting.
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  #29  
Old 09-14-2020, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
13.4 is fine depends on where you measure and how soon after the battery was pulled down from starting.
Disagree. If that was the running voltage he's talking about, it's what is being produced by the alternator, not what's in the battery. I read it as the running voltage. It should be higher in a new alternator.
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  #30  
Old 09-14-2020, 12:01 PM
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When I recently replaced my alternator it took about 10 miles is driving before the voltage broke 13.0.

The alternator is perfectly fine and I suspect I will see 13.6-13.8 if I monitor it with OBC today.

Once the battery is fully charged I would expect to see as high as 13.8. I've never measured above 14 on a car that didn't have a problem.
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