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  #1  
Old 09-20-2020, 10:25 PM
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01 3.0 Won't Start - DME Relay???

2001 3.0 Won't start. Was running fine all day. Replaced Oil Pressure Switch, RR ABS Wheel Sensor, and RR Door Lock Module due to codes. Started car, cleared codes, shut car down, would not restart.

Following Codes after failed re-start:
1) 24 DME: Main Relay
2) 1B DME: Activation, Idle-Speed control valve/closing coil.
3) 7C DME: Activation, Solenoid valve, Intake Manifold (DISA).

(BTW: Replaced the DISA valve last year when I did the Intake gaskets, coolant and heater hoses. Replaced the Alt couple weeks ago.)


So what is weird, is the Fuel Pump runs and pressure is 50lbs when key is turned. Removed Main Relay, no FP, so I am guessing the Main Relay is good.

I just thought I'd ask in the event someone has an idea before I pick this back up tomorrow evening.
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Last edited by Flat-Six; 09-20-2020 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 09-20-2020, 10:58 PM
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You didn't explain which of the six or so non start situations.

Eg: cranks but no combustion, click no crank, combustion on just a couple cylinders etc.
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Old 09-20-2020, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
You didn't explain which of the six or so non start situations.

Eg: cranks but no combustion, click no crank, combustion on just a couple cylinders etc.
Engine turns over (cranks), does not fire (no combustion) on any cylinders.
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Old 09-20-2020, 11:07 PM
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My first thought would be that you blew a fuse. Maybe double check what you did especially with the oil pressure switch. In some cases certain things won't work, engine won't start, if the oil pressure switch doesn't work.
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:52 AM
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How did you clear the codes? Did the process clear the key/EWS sync?
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat-Six View Post
2001 3.0 Won't start. Was running fine all day. Replaced Oil Pressure Switch, RR ABS Wheel Sensor, and RR Door Lock Module due to codes. Started car, cleared codes, shut car down, would not restart.

Following Codes after failed re-start:
1) 24 DME: Main Relay
2) 1B DME: Activation, Idle-Speed control valve/closing coil.
3) 7C DME: Activation, Solenoid valve, Intake Manifold (DISA).

(BTW: Replaced the DISA valve last year when I did the Intake gaskets, coolant and heater hoses. Replaced the Alt couple weeks ago.)


So what is weird, is the Fuel Pump runs and pressure is 50lbs when key is turned. Removed Main Relay, no FP, so I am guessing the Main Relay is good.

I just thought I'd ask in the event someone has an idea before I pick this back up tomorrow evening.
How long did you run the car after you started it? If you ran the engine for less than 3 minutes, you could have flooded the engine. When an engine is first started it is in open loop and the map for open loop is to provide a rich mixture until it goes into close loop. The amount of rich mixture is dependent on the ECT. The colder the engine the richer the mixture.

As for the fix, push the accelerator all the way to the floor and hold it in that positiion. This will place the engine in clear flood mode. Now crank the engine and see if it starts.
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Old 09-21-2020, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
How long did you run the car after you started it? If you ran the engine for less than 3 minutes, you could have flooded the engine. When an engine is first started it is in open loop and the map for open loop is to provide a rich mixture until it goes into close loop. The amount of rich mixture is dependent on the ECT. The colder the engine the richer the mixture.

As for the fix, push the accelerator all the way to the floor and hold it in that positiion. This will place the engine in clear flood mode. Now crank the engine and see if it starts.
Les than 3min. Tried Clear Flood Mode.

I'll ck all the fuses tonight. Did not want to deal with this now! Too many other projects, I wanted to get this back to my daughter. Life....
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Old 09-21-2020, 10:51 PM
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Fuses good. Fuel Pump working. Not sure why the DME Relay is throwing a fault with the FP's working. I'll pick up a spare and try new one tomorrow. I am wondering about the Cam or Crank sensor possibly failing and causing this.....
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  #9  
Old 09-22-2020, 07:59 PM
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Turns out it was a 30amp fuse located in the engine DME/TCM Fuse Relay area. The fuse block contains 4 30amp and 1 20amp. One of the 30amp fuses was blown. Searching for a diagram to determine what the fuse supports.
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Old 09-22-2020, 10:49 PM
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Oh man, good find for sure! Glad you got that sorted and what a pain... I get why they do it, fuse a fused circuit with multiple fuses but wouldn’t it be sweet if everything were just a straight run of cable with its own, single, fuse

There’d be about 500 miles more wiring in the car for sure though.... ouch!


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