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#11
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#12
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But he said he can hear the "Click" and the "Click" is only made when the clutch makes contact with the steel pulley
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#13
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I was thinking the function was slightly different. That the magnet threw the clutch plate, and the plate can wear like a disk brake and just wears out and doesn't grab?
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#14
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Quote:
- the fact that it is the same on high and low means the compressor is not compressing - the 90 psi means you probably do have liquid R-134a in there along with the R-134a gas. The gas is saturated, and from looking at the 90psi pressure, that indicates a system temperature of 82F. PDF attached here to show the pressure vs. temp relationship for a saturated vapor condition. forane-134a-pressure-temperature-chart.pdf If you were to take the same test on a cold engine on a colder day, you'd get a lower pressure. Or on a warmed up engine, where the ambient temp in the engine bay is much higher, you'd get higher pressure readings. All completely normal and expected. If the pressure were far below what you see on this chart, it could indicate that you do not have enough R-134a in the system to create a saturated vapor. So there would be no liquid, and only gas. Clear indication of insufficient fill. But that's not you. On the clutch, what exactly makes you think the clutch is engaging? As is being discussed here, maybe it makes a noise, but maybe it does not fully engage. Can you see the shaft actually spinning (or not spinning)? (I don't know if that is impossible to check, but I'll ask anyway )
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
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#15
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Quote:
Here's a video with an X5 as an example on how to test and replace the coil and clutch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOrJSSCG-1g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gVyOnZUfZU
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#16
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Help - a new lead on an A/C issue
The A/C season came and went and I appreciate everyone's advice. After tinkering for several hours today I think I have this nailed down and need a sanity check from the group. It's a 2004 E53 3.0 with 110K miles.
**I think it is the HVAC control module** and need advice/confirmation. I can see the clutch kicking on and activating the A/C compressor and see the front part of the compressor spinning very clearly (vs not spinning with A/C off). Vents are blowing *warm* air at normal engine operating temp with Max A/C on. I got a lead to check the heater control valve. I disconnected the plug for it and it appears grounded well when touching my multimeter to + battery and neg to the valve or valve body. I checked the heater control valve plug's voltage per https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm and I am only getting +0.03 Volts when the heat is set to 90 degrees or I have Max A/C and 60 Deg setting. I am supposed to be getting approx 12VDC when on Max A/C. Fuse 48 (7.5amp) is good. The HVAC control module "looks" fine and doesn't act strange in any way but am assuming a bad component or bad solder joint is possible? Should I attempt to jumper 12VDC to the heater control valve (add 12VDC to the tan/orange wire) to see if I get A/C? Anything else I can check? SHould I pick up a used HVAC control module from Ebay? |
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#17
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Bump for any thoughts............
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#18
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I want to post my results on getting my AC fixed in hopes it will help someone else!
As the original poster, I had my AC to the mechanic after all unsuccessful attempts to resolve on my own and he wanted to replace $1200 in parts. I asked if he'd be willing to replace the $15 Control Valve (see post from X5StayinAlive at https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-cold-air.html). He agreed and I ordered the valve. He had a bit of a hard time getting the old out but evacuated the system, installed the new control valve and I am happy to report my AC has been working GREAT for the past week. It ended up running me a little over $150 in labor and materials plus the Santech control valve. It was worth a $150 gamble to me to try the valve before replacing the compressor and other components. I could have done this myself if I had the equipment and knowledge on AC but didn't want to mess things up. Huge thank you to X5StayinAlive for posting that fix!!!! |
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#19
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Thanks for posting your solution. I know nothing about AC but will keep this fix in mind if mine misbehaves.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Garage '05 X5 4.8is Imola Red/Black '02 330Ci Conv. Electric Red/Tan '01 M5 Lemans Blue/Black/Silverstone '00 528 Electric Red/Grey '07 BMW 328iX Silver/Black '82 Mercedes 380SL Signal Red/Grey '73 VW Beetle Convertible (restored) '17 Honda Odyssey '98 Volvo V70 GLT '94 Ford Explorer XLT '11 Honda Accord V6 Manual Coupe (bought Fall 2020 from American Honda with 250 miles) '98 Volvo V70 T5 (project) |
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#20
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That's a great share.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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