Led tail light issue

[c-bass]

Originally Posted by tommy2704

get your facts right. all it says is
6 Ω for the 21w filament, 24 Ω for the 6w (top lamp)

how the hell does that answer my question?????
the lamps are led (der) they are both the same bottom and top so how does that tell me which one i need????????
the light circuit and the brake circuit are different wires and can be wired to either top or bottom, therefore i still don't know which resistor i need.
the 6 or the 24?????? I only need it for the light circuit as the brake/run circuit works fine.
is the light circuit the 21w??? or is that the brake circuit????
We're not all as clued up as you on electrics you know.
Don't bother answering things if your gonna be a sarcastic idiot. as you can see i have followed this thread all the way and know exactly what it says.

My man...you're calling me an idiot...and you're the one that can't read?

fact #1 read post twenty...like "Exactly what it says"

Maybe someone else can spoon feed you the info if you don't want to read it...good luck


BTW, welcome to the forum

[tommy2704]

Originally Posted by c-bass

My man...you're calling me an idiot...and you're the one that can't read?

fact #1 read post twenty...like "Exactly what it says"

Maybe someone else can spoon feed you the info if you don't want to read it...good luck


BTW, welcome to the forum

thats the one i QUOTED you moron. maybe you need to learn to read.
read my last post properly. as no20 states
"people put high watt resisters in the circuit to fake being bulbs 6 Ω for the 21w filament, 24 Ω for the 6w (top lamp)" "Exactly what it says" as you put it.
both led's top and bottom filaments are the same. no seperate 21w and no 6w top lamp.

now read mine n get your facts right. my run/brake circuit is fine.

i need to know which one for the light circuit (seperate wires to brake/run,) and that no20 as you say does not tell me which 1 to use as both led circuits are the same. it describes them as normal lights circuit. I NEED THE LIGHT CIRCUIT TO LIGHT UP JUST LIKE THE RUN CIRCUIT DOES ON THE BRAKE WIRES. not as clever as you thought you big headed idiot.

[c-bass]

Originally Posted by tommy2704

thats the one i QUOTED you moron. maybe you need to learn to read.
read my last post properly. as no20 states
"people put high watt resisters in the circuit to fake being bulbs 6 Ω for the 21w filament, 24 Ω for the 6w (top lamp)" "Exactly what it says" as you put it.
both led's top and bottom filaments are the same. no seperate 21w and no 6w top lamp.

now read mine n get your facts right. my run/brake circuit is fine.

i need to know which one for the light circuit (seperate wires to brake/run,) and that no20 as you say does not tell me which 1 to use as both led circuits are the same. it describes them as normal lights circuit. I NEED THE LIGHT CIRCUIT TO LIGHT UP JUST LIKE THE RUN CIRCUIT DOES ON THE BRAKE WIRES. not as clever as you thought you big headed idiot.

since I'm the idiot...you figure it out no?

[tommy2704]

Originally Posted by c-bass

since I'm the idiot...you figure it out no?

lol i already have. too scared to read it properly i see

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by tommy2704

can i not just put a resistor into the light circuit and if so what resistor do i need.

You have used a couple confusing terms that don't match standards.

You have been calling the "run/ning" light circuit the "light" circuit they are all light circuits.

The run circuit runs at full voltage and is incompatle with your lighting. Wire a 24 Ω resistor from that wire to ground.

You may still get an error because the brake lamps also don't pull enough power in which case you would need to wire a lower resistance resistor in parallel to the BRAKE circuit (which is actually run/brake circuit. ).

I would need to know what amount of current the circuit pulls when lighting both top and bottom to know the correct resistance to emulate the 21w filament but people usually use 6 Ω. It likely needs closer to 8-10 Ω but only trial and error will determine what level will prevent the error.

The problem is two fold:

1) you don't have run wire connected at all the car correctly identifies this as a blown filament.

2) the brake circuit has too low of resistance even when doubting up the lamps, so it will likely see this as a failing filament.

If you know the wattage of the LEDs or can measure the current going to get fixture when the brakes are applied I can do the math to tell you the proper resistor.

A 6 Ω resistor at 12v is 24w! That's similar to a small soldering iron so it needs to be a special metal resistor and should be touching metal to pull the heat out.

If you only need 10 Ω, the power drops from 24w to 12w or half so it's worth figuring out what is actually needed.

With any luck simply doubling up the lamps (which you did) will trick the car into thinking the lamp isn't blown.

[c-bass]

Originally Posted by tommy2704

lol i already have. too scared to read it properly i see

I guess all I saw was

I nEEd I NeEd I NEED

Glad you sorted it out, proving to all the internet how many of the smart you have

[tommy2704]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

You have used a couple confusing terms that don't match standards.

You have been calling the "run/ning" light circuit the "light" circuit they are all light circuits.

The run circuit runs at full voltage and is incompatle with your lighting. Wire a 24 Ω resistor from that wire to ground.

You may still get an error because the brake lamps also don't pull enough power in which case you would need to wire a lower resistance resistor in parallel to the BRAKE circuit (which is actually run/brake circuit. ).

I would need to know what amount of current the circuit pulls when lighting both top and bottom to know the correct resistance to emulate the 21w filament but people usually use 6 Ω. It likely needs closer to 8-10 Ω but only trial and error will determine what level will prevent the error.

The problem is two fold:

1) you don't have run wire connected at all the car correctly identifies this as a blown filament.

2) the brake circuit has too low of resistance even when doubting up the lamps, so it will likely see this as a failing filament.

If you know the wattage of the LEDs or can measure the current going to get fixture when the brakes are applied I can do the math to tell you the proper resistor.

A 6 Ω resistor at 12v is 24w! That's similar to a small soldering iron so it needs to be a special metal resistor and should be touching metal to pull the heat out.

If you only need 10 Ω, the power drops from 24w to 12w or half so it's worth figuring out what is actually needed.

With any luck simply doubling up the lamps (which you did) will trick the car into thinking the lamp isn't blown.

ok well firstly thanks for the proper reply. sorry for the confusion.
i gather you mean the run circuit is the main back lights?
if they are incompatible then why are they in the connector? (never had a set of these before)
They are the ones, when connected, that are as bright as the brake lights so i guess thats where the full voltage comes in.
So why cant i put a resistor in that wire to lower the full voltage??

Also, the brake circuit (run/brake circuit) is absolutely fine and works perfectly without any resistors. Doubled up as you said. No warnings about brakes. The ONLY warning i get is because the main run circuit is not connected to anything.
Thats how ive got it wired at the moment and all lights/ brakes etc are working perfectly.
What i needed to know was about putting a resistor in the main run circuit so that i could connect the light fitting properly without any alarms going off.
hope i explained this right.

[tommy2704]

Originally Posted by c-bass

I guess all I saw was

I nEEd I NeEd I NEED

Glad you sorted it out, proving to all the internet how many of the smart you have

how many of the smart you have???????????
what the hell does that mean??? is it english??
grow up child. you've proved to the internet that you cant read and showed yourself up. amazing how others got the jist.. didn't hear you mention what was compatible or not or it depends on led voltage etc. dum ass

[Overboost]

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by tommy2704

What i needed to know was about putting a resistor in the main run circuit so that i could connect the light fitting properly without any alarms going off.
hope i explained this right.

Run the resistor between the + and ground on that plug. Warning will go away as the resistor acts as the connection and is emulating a bulb. Easy as pie, a quick google will give diagrams too. I don't even think you have to plug the harness back in if you don't want.



Edit: You can see my resistor install here above the fuse box.