key remote wont unlock the door after spray lube

[Takimo]

long story short i have the frozen door lock issue, so i spray lot of graphhite lube randomly inside the door from the little hole in the side of the door , but since then when winter comes, the key remote isnt responsive, i have to open door manually, anyone know which part i have to clean or replace ? or what might cause this ? i guess the junk i spray make the lube harder to turn and unlock door when its cold . But in summer it works, not A1 tho, i have to press the remote a couple times.... and i just rebuild the lock cylinder and it didint help...

[EODguy]

Andrew has a great DIY laid out (see below) if you have problems after doing this I would contact Andrew and he'll be able to sort out any issues.



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[Takimo]

thanks for the link, but i end up putting tri flow and no more lock freeze, my main issue now is the key remote

[Qsilver7]

The remote key uses a different path to the GM (which controls the central locking). The door lock cylinder is not the path the remote key fob takes. The remote sends a 315 MHz radio frequency to an aerial embedded in the rear left cargo window. The signal then goes to a amp/receiver in the upper section above the tailgate...then the signal is sent on to the GM where commands are sent to lock/unlock the vehicle.

The remote key is powered by an internal battery that allows it to send this signal. If your remotes are not locking/unlocking the vehicle...the issue is not the driver’s door lock cylinder (especially if its working).

Are all of the other central locking areas working? When you lock the car with the driver’s door lock cylinder...if you walk around to the fuel filler flap...is it locked or unlocked? If it is unlocked...then the fuse or the fuel filler flap actuator has blown/failed...and this can stop the remote key from locking the vehicle.

If all the above is fine, then there’s something between the signal from the key being sent...to the signal getting to the GM is being interrupted or corrupted.

Again, separate the physical lock/unlock from the remote lock/unlock to determine where the issue may be. The path to the GM is different...so if one is working and the other is not...then that can help determine where you need to look.

You can see in the pics below where the FZV (central locking) antenna is located on SAVs/Touring/Wagons...and also where the FZV amp/receiver is located...and two charts that show both the K-bus (if you have the low cluster) and the I-bus (if you have the high cluster)...you can see that the GM controls FZV/door locks/etc :

[SpookX5]

I cleaned and lubed my door locks recently and a day after that the remote stopped working. I re synced the key with the car once and the problem went away. It might be worth a try to re sync them.

[Takimo]

How to re sync ?

[Takimo]

ok i google it , try to resync and it didnt work


central locking work 100%


other fact is, remote key work when im inside the car , i have to press the button several times to make it work... but when im stepping outside it didnt work..


signal problem ? battery life near dead ?

[andrewwynn]

Bad solder joints in the key will give you the symptoms you describe.

Try this:

Lock door with key in the cylinder and immediately after removing the key try to unlock the car with the fob.

Also do the reverse. Unlock with key and try to lock with fob.

If you can remote lock/unlock immediately after a key lock/unlock it's almost certain it's bad solder joints in the key fob. (both of my keys did exactly like you describe and I could get them both to work immediately after a keyd use for up to 20-40 seconds and not after).

I opened up my keys and reflowed the solder and they both worked 3 years until i lost one and the other stopped working remotely again.

I can't risk reflow my only key so I'll be ordering a new one soon and then I'll open up my current key and reflow the solder again.

[Takimo]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Bad solder joints in the key will give you the symptoms you describe.

Try this:

Lock door with key in the cylinder and immediately after removing the key try to unlock the car with the fob.

Also do the reverse. Unlock with key and try to lock with fob.

If you can remote lock/unlock immediately after a key lock/unlock it's almost certain it's bad solder joints in the key fob. (both of my keys did exactly like you describe and I could get them both to work immediately after a keyd use for up to 20-40 seconds and not after).

I opened up my keys and reflowed the solder and they both worked 3 years until i lost one and the other stopped working remotely again.

I can't risk reflow my only key so I'll be ordering a new one soon and then I'll open up my current key and reflow the solder again.

just try that and it didnt work but good news is , i pick my secondary key (dont know why i didint think about that till now ) drive for a while to charge the key, then sync and it work, then took my primary key sync and it work, great try to unlock lock with both key = work A1, now comes the real test, i step away a few feet from the car, took the secondary remote lock/unlock work like a charm, but primary key wouldnt work. but didnt mind, as long as i can finally use the remote thank god !!!

[andrewwynn]

So sounds like primary key bad solder joints. There was a guy that woukd refurbish for $60 once upon a time.