door carrier handle carrier OEM or not?

[80stech]

If the cable is too short for whatever reason, including the cable casing jumping out of holder, the door latch won't reset after closing and door won't open. Good call on getting a new carrier.

[omodos]

Originally Posted by 80stech

If the cable is too short for whatever reason, including the cable casing jumping out of holder, the door latch won't reset after closing and door won't open. Good call on getting a new carrier.

no idea what issue was, cos compared all cables n they had identical length, so ended up using cable out of existing broke carrier...and worked. Yup gonna get a new one for the passenger side, cos during the fix of an old broken one got a tad lost on where the teeth needed to be lined up for the arm to correctly n fully pull up the cable with ball socket...in the end all good though...still gonna strengthen new one though...gonna need the epoxy resin am sure inner plastics will have come undone unless any of you fellas know if a glue gun would work instead....

[omodos]

Well gonna order another one for the front passenger side to avoid any unexpected hiccups at next attempt, in case I can't fix one in place in time or it's too broke, and make sure I have got enough epoxy resin for those plastic bits that will just come off as per photo(darn sun fries everything out here)...red arrow points to plastic trim that just separated from the cardboard when i pried off the door panel...and other pic is my st.steel zip tie pass for my clunky window..seems to have sorted it , in conjunction with a new clip that secured the window to the carrier. Ok well thanks to all the great posts and photos and my fear of shim catching against inards of door were unfounded....only thing i may try next time as seems cleaner is use the tie as per the photo and not try to stuff the raised part of tie it all the way down into space near the spring....

[Chamberlin]

Shucks, I just did DHC fix last night on my '05 3.0i... I already had those SS zip ties, but didn't think to add that to a new carrier... doh.


BTW, the carrier I took out was a URO brand that somebody else already replaced, and they included a Chinese knock-off with the purchase of the car. I binned the China one, and ordered a Febi. Turns out when I got the URO out, the axle pin had slid out about a half inch. But even when tapped back in place, the opening action was very stiff and notchy; so something's still not right with that carrier.


Interestingly, the Febi carrier is *EXACTLY* the same as the URO, just with different laser markings.


I've done these fixes on other E53s I've had in the past, but this one really sucked. First, the vapor barrier was shredded and taped back together with duct tape... I trashed it and ordered a new one. Next, when I was putting the lock cylinder back in (driver's door handle of course), the mechanism petals didn't align and as I pushed in the the whole lock assembly fell apart into the door! Apparently the little roll pin keeper was pounded in all the way and is not keeping the collar in place! That was a real pain to get back together, even with YouTube videos. Lastly, my door panel has also been separated from the top plastic rail...just like omodos' did above.


What adhesive/epoxy do you recommend to re-attach this piece to the door card?

[omodos]

Originally Posted by Chamberlin

Shucks, I just did DHC fix last night on my '05 3.0i... I already had those SS zip ties, but didn't think to add that to a new carrier... doh.


BTW, the carrier I took out was a URO brand that somebody else already replaced, and they included a Chinese knock-off with the purchase of the car. I binned the China one, and ordered a Febi. Turns out when I got the URO out, the axle pin had slid out about a half inch. But even when tapped back in place, the opening action was very stiff and notchy; so something's still not right with that carrier.


Interestingly, the Febi carrier is *EXACTLY* the same as the URO, just with different laser markings.


I've done these fixes on other E53s I've had in the past, but this one really sucked. First, the vapor barrier was shredded and taped back together with duct tape... I trashed it and ordered a new one. Next, when I was putting the lock cylinder back in (driver's door handle of course), the mechanism petals didn't align and as I pushed in the the whole lock assembly fell apart into the door! Apparently the little roll pin keeper was pounded in all the way and is not keeping the collar in place! That was a real pain to get back together, even with YouTube videos. Lastly, my door panel has also been separated from the top plastic rail...just like omodos' did above.


What adhesive/epoxy do you recommend to re-attach this piece to the door card?

Hi i ordered a chinese one as backup for the passenger side thats on the way out...just in case dont have time to zip tie fix the one i remove...right the epoxy i used to sort the undone inner plastics was 2
part syringe Job pattex brand but am sure there are other brands your end ...life saver really but added more time to repair overall...https://www.pattex-adhesives.com.au/...x-syringe.html

[Chamberlin]

Originally Posted by omodos

Hi i ordered a chinese one as backup for the passenger side thats on the way out...just in case dont have time to zip tie fix the one i remove...right the epoxy i used to sort the undone inner plastics was 2
part syringe Job pattex brand but am sure there are other brands your end ...life saver really but added more time to repair overall...https://www.pattex-adhesives.com.au/...x-syringe.html

Thanks for that! Yes I have some similar in the shop, just wasn't sure if there are any considerations for compatibility with the existing glues that will remain (no way I'm going to try and remove the old yellow glue!).

[omodos]

Originally Posted by Chamberlin

Thanks for that! Yes I have some similar in the shop, just wasn't sure if there are any considerations for compatibility with the existing glues that will remain (no way I'm going to try and remove the old yellow glue!).

old glue right, blunt butterknife to it and took off some of the composite cardboard type material off the door card too..this gave me ability to add maybe 1 2mm thickness of glue to bond two surfaces rather than leave existing yellowing glue on it..that old glue just totally separated from the plastic due to heat i guess...it all remained on door card..literally like card compressed paper fibres you pull at old glue and tears off...let me know if not removing any glue works out and allows epoxy to do job