Changed Master Cylinder. Pedal still going to floor?!

[andrewwynn]

I looked into splicing a piece but the entire lines were made of rust so I would only recommend replace end to end.

You can buy the two pieces with ends on and the 10mm one is a reasonable price like $30-40 but when I went to buy mine the 12mm ends model was about $130.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...placement.html

Excellent write up on the procedure. I'll try to find my posts describing how to clone the bends. (basically using the 3-size bending tool, put the tool on the old pipe in the 1/4" slot and put the new pipe in the 3/16" slot and bend until they match. I used nicop. No reason to use steel in a location you can't see. I'd maybe use steel for the shorter part from the abs block because it will look a little less DIY with straighter straight parts.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0SGhtLJ3JIy2hw

Link to my photo album of my brake line repair. Read the comments to see what each photo details.

[EODguy]

An old moonshiners trick to bend lines is salt, sugar, etc. in the *line and you can make complex bends without kinking the tubing.

*Not sure what could be used that would dissolve in brake fluid to flush it out before installing though....

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[upallnight]

Originally Posted by EODguy

An old moonshiners trick to bend lines is salt, sugar, etc. in the *line and you can make complex bends without kinking the tubing.

*Not sure what could be used that would dissolve in brake fluid to flush it out before installing though....

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They sell bending springs for bending brake lines. You slip the spring over the line and bend the brake line. The spring will prevent the line from kinking.

[///Monster123]

1. Make sure you're using the correct flare tool and fitting. It took me about 5 trips to the autoparts store to buy the wrong fittings, use the wrong flare, ruin brake line sections, forget to put the fitting on before flaring, etc... Also, I'm pretty sure that "plastic" is fiberglass because I was incredibly itchy after messing with that. This job sucks.

2. As for tools, I bought a cheap flare tool from Advance Autoparts. I broke the first one. Advance Autoparts replaced it so all it well but it's a cheap tool and I'm sure I'd break the replacement if I used it too many times. The pin broke out of the middle of the die if I remember correctly. For brake line bending tool I just picked up the cheap $5 bending tool and it works well enough. I had no issues with the brake line collapsing.

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by upallnight

They sell bending springs for bending brake lines. You slip the spring over the line and bend the brake line. The spring will prevent the line from kinking.

But how does an external wrapped spring keep the id void from collapsing on a tight bend? The moonshiners had lots of tighter coils than we'll ever need though.

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[upallnight]

Originally Posted by EODguy

But how does an external wrapped spring keep the id void from collapsing on a tight bend? The moonshiners had lots of tighter coils than we'll ever need though.

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Here's a video with an explanation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKdB-szGO5Q

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by EODguy

But how does an external wrapped spring keep the id void from collapsing on a tight bend? The moonshiners had lots of tighter coils than we'll ever need though.

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Kink happens when tubing can spread sideways. The spring forces the tubing to stretch more on the outside of the curve and compress on the inside rather than go wide.

I haven’t used one in over a decade because the tubing bender is easier and more precise


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[EODguy]

Ok thanks.

I was wondering how it worked.

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[cn90]

Originally Posted by Mike1261

...What is the simplest way to repair this? Cut out a section and add in a section of line with a coupler? Or do I have to replace the entire section with probably-$$$ pre-bent line??

The FR had a ton of air in the system that came out when using the Foxwell. I got the brakes feeling 90% only to then realize I was dumping brake fluid on the ground and discovering the rotted brake line.

The car is up on a lift and it's putting a bit of pressure on the plastic panel making it hard to remove. That's a job for another day. Hopefully I can remove it without having to put the wheels back on and lowering the car down.

Mike,

This is NO simple way to fix this. It has to be fixed correctly.
I did NOT replace the entire lines. Instead I "cut and pasted"...

When I first faced with the problems, I had goose bumps looking at it.
But after doing some research etc. I did the whole thing and wrote it up below.

For now, use a stick of appropriate length (detail below) and press the brake pedal halfway down to stop brake fluid loss.

Every single tip/trick is included below...


DIY: 2006 BMW E53 X5 3.0i Brake Line Replacement

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...placement.html

[andrewwynn]

Your can buy the brake pipes with ends already on your just need to bend:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/X5...ds=34326752219

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/X5...ds=34326755666

As you’ll see the m12 fitting one is 5–6x the price but you get to skip the learning curve of making iso flares and just deal with bending and the mf’r of connecting the union that is up inside the axle tunnel (though with crow foot socket and one flex joint it was 4/10 difficulty just 7/10 to figure out the magic combination: look at my photo album to save a lot of effort).

To remove the plastic panel on the lift, lower to where you can set on Jack stands vs. putting on all the wheels.