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#1
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Not according to the TIS Bulletin issued by BMW for filling and checking the fluid level in their trans. The temp should be between 30C - 50C. If 100C is the boiling point of water 50C is only 122F. With a thermostat that is set to 195F that would be Waaaaaay over the maximum temp allowed. Here's a link to the TIS https://www.bimmerfest.com/attachmen...py-pdf.301615/ Watch out for the Cliff Claven on this board.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#2
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What does the temperature of boiling water have to do with anything? ![]() I'm familiar with the TIS as well as had this done several times by a reputable shop that walked me through it while we were under the car. Everything I said is basically the same procedure as the TIS you linked. - Bring trans to temp, check for fluid seeping out of fill hole I'm not a big fan of passive aggressive so if you disagree with my opinion of what "up to temperature" is just say so...mon ami |
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#3
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But for some reason, nobody does this. ZF and GM for the BMW, and same thing on Porsche and Mercedes I'm aware of have the temperature at which ATF level is set be a temperature that is far below normal operating temp. The reason it matters is that the ATF will expand as it raises in temp, I believe with about a half quart difference between cold vs. hot for a ~10qt capacity. I don't know how much that difference matters, but it sure does get most people's attention. I believe for the BMW (both ZF and GM ATs) that temp spec is 30-50*C, with 35*C as the actual target. As @upallnight correctly pointed out, that is FAR lower than "operating temperature." In fact, it is stone cold in many climates at certain times of the year. I think many people here in the US, where C vs. F is like a foreign language, and having numbers involved causes some panic and lack of clear thinking, leading people to go and buy pyrometers and OBD2 systems. EDIT - and LOL, that last sentence is probably why @upallnight mentioned the boiling point of water. It might bring some calm and rational comparitive thinking to some of us in the USA who are not used to a foreign language like that. Not completely kidding ![]() This low temp spec makes it tough to get done properly at a shop. I can definitely believe that a shop would say operating temp is good, since that makes their job a lot faster. But it does not change the spec. It seems it would be a lot easier for everyone if the spec were at a temp closer to operating temp, and the fill hole was a few mm higher to account for that. But across all German ATs (and even the Porsche one I know of is an Aisin [Japanese] one, with a similar spec) I know of, they use the low temp spec. I've seen on youtube where they use a bunch of fans to cool down a car+engine so they can get the guy out the door in only 4 hours. LOL. Waiting overnight will work as well. Me, doing it myself in my driveway, my method is basically to - day 1 - first purposely overfill the AT slightly, taking my time, with no concern about temp. - day 2 - morning (relatively colder starting point) - Level set, much simplified procedure. The day 1 overfilling is made possible by jacking the rear slightly higher than the front, so the fill hole (on my GM AT, on the left side towards the rear corner) is higher than the center of the pan. Then, the next morning after everything is cold and the AT and ATF have shrunk, I do the following abbreviated procedure to set the level:
The point of doing it that way is that the actual setting of the level is a much simpler procedure. No ATF needs to be added. Just removing the fill bolt (which did not even need to be tight) is simple enough that I can stop things as the temp rises through 35*C.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 Last edited by oldskewel; 04-22-2021 at 02:00 PM. |
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#4
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Like I warn people watch out for the Cliff Clavens on ths forum.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#5
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Here I was trying to make it simpler for someone to do a quick fluid check P.S. Everyone hates the French Do Cliff some justice and spell his name right at least Amigo |
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#6
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__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#7
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Wow...I forgot about that Americanism...good one
Maybe it's time to get some sleep
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#8
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I do!
Usually from some liberal douchebag working there with some obscure college degree in some kind of gender studies. ![]() ![]()
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Digital Competition Systems The older I get... The faster I was... No Fear
Last edited by Overboost; 04-22-2021 at 09:30 PM. |
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#9
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__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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