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  #21  
Old 05-07-2021, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Most people don't know how to drive a manual transmission car. They think that a manual transmission is when you flip the paddles to shift the trans.

That is very true. Or in the case of e53 use the m/s (manual shift) side of the shift lever.
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  #22  
Old 05-07-2021, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Most people don't know how to drive a manual transmission car. They think that a manual transmission is when you flip the paddles to shift the trans.

When you search for "BMW" on craigslist and sort by "manual transmission" only... maybe 50% of the cars are actually manuals. And the worst is when the ad actually writes out "manual transmission" in the description but you can see the automatic shifter.



I actually test drove a 2012-ish 535i 6MT when we were shopping for a grocery getter, but I figured spending $30k on a fast, beautiful, unreliable BMW would not be a prudent decision for a car which needed to shuttle around my family. We ended up with a Mazda6 6MT for a lot less money, which I am totally happy with, except for the lack of twin turbos and all. But the next family car we buy will be something with more guts.
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  #23  
Old 05-14-2021, 04:39 PM
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New to X5 world, advice needed please (Cooling and fuel pump)

Update time; all the parts came in, fuel pump, fuel filter, thermostat, 2 temp sensors along with vanos solenoid seals.

I replaced everything, cleaned the vanos solenoids (P/Oís mechanic gunked them up with gasket maker.... the n62 was running beautifully for 10 whole minutes, heat is perfect and gauge is working again, until it started to throw P0342 and P0011 codes... cam shaft position sensor codes, which makes no sense since I didnít work on the cam shafts or even near them.

What I think is happening is that one or more of the connectors for the vanos solenoids are not good or I might have buggered up the install somehow. They were actuating when I was cleaning them.

Iím hoping itís a wire or connector, because putting them back in is a nightmare, I did make sure they are completely seated in the head, so thatís not the issue.

Any advice? Maybe Iím over looking something. Also, sensor A refers to the intake sensor (?) but it doesnít mention which bank....

Adding codes:



Thank you!

Last edited by Aidzer0; 05-14-2021 at 05:21 PM.
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  #24  
Old 05-14-2021, 06:08 PM
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To add more info, the solenoids are seated in the head correctly, the connectors are in their right spots (not cross connected), I need to check whether the wires are good though and I need to check the connectors as they were loaded with dust + oil.

I donít know whether itís on bank 1 or 2. All I know is that sensor A is not bank 1, itís the intake camshaft sensor.
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  #25  
Old 05-14-2021, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aidzer0 View Post
Update time; all the parts came in, fuel pump, fuel filter, thermostat, 2 temp sensors along with vanos solenoid seals.

I replaced everything, cleaned the vanos solenoids (P/Oís mechanic gunked them up with gasket maker.... the n62 was running beautifully for 10 whole minutes, heat is perfect and gauge is working again, until it started to throw P0342 and P0011 codes... cam shaft position sensor codes, which makes no sense since I didnít work on the cam shafts or even near them.

What I think is happening is that one or more of the connectors for the vanos solenoids are not good or I might have buggered up the install somehow. They were actuating when I was cleaning them.

Iím hoping itís a wire or connector, because putting them back in is a nightmare, I did make sure they are completely seated in the head, so thatís not the issue.

Any advice? Maybe Iím over looking something. Also, sensor A refers to the intake sensor (?) but it doesnít mention which bank....

Adding codes:



Thank you!
I don't know if this is why and have never found out for sure if this is causing the problem, but.....

Vanos solenoids have a separate menu on the Foxwell NT-510 basically saying "park or stop them" for removal/maintenance. Maybe not doing this step increases the odds of causing position errors (rarely happens?) and that's why you're getting the camshaft error. I have seen many people here do their vanos without having camshaft errors popping up but I don't know how many people have used the vanos sub-menu since most folks write that they replaced them, etc. and not whether they did the extra step.

I know this is probably clear as mud but hopefully someone else will be along to explain it better or shoot down my guesstimate above.

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  #26  
Old 05-14-2021, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EODguy View Post
I don't know if this is why and have never found out for sure if this is causing the problem, but.....

Vanos solenoids have a separate menu on the Foxwell NT-510 basically saying "park or stop them" for removal/maintenance. Maybe not doing this step increases the odds of causing position errors (rarely happens?) and that's why you're getting the camshaft error. I have seen many people here do their vanos without having camshaft errors popping up but I don't know how many people have used the vanos sub-menu since most folks write that they replaced them, etc. and not whether they did the extra step.

I know this is probably clear as mud but hopefully someone else will be along to explain it better or shoot down my guesstimate above.

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Interesting, well I definitely did not do that as I donít have that unit, I just have a generic scanner (waiting for my inpa adapter).

Thanks! All guidance is welcome!
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  #27  
Old 05-15-2021, 11:06 AM
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One more update, it seems as though the car is idling rough until the CEL comes up, I assume this is because the vanos gets disabled, then the car idles perfectly. So this must be the solenoid/s, I will be troubleshooting today.
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  #28  
Old 05-15-2021, 01:58 PM
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Update time; I seem to have fixed the issue.

Basically, both intake side solenoid connectors had the insulation on the wires cracked, and they were probably shorting, but also, the connecter contacts were filthy.

So, as a temporary fix, I just put some electrical tape around the individual wires and cleaned out the connectors with brake cleaner, I also used the rectangular toothpicks to clean out the contacts, they had a film of black residue on them, I then added dielectric grease using the same toothpick.

The car is idling good now, have yet to drive it, but it did reach operating temps perfectly and no rough idle, which was the issue before.

Thanks all for the input on the fuel pump and sensors! They were easy to replace and well worth the cost!

Next up I will be changing the trans oil/filter and the mechatronic seals all around. (As preventative maintenance, no issues at the moment) then followed by a full cooling system (minus the t-stat) and power steering system refresh (minor leak on the high pressure hose).
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