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  #11  
Old 10-19-2021, 08:42 PM
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Agreed. The UTC I thought was doweled to the head so it really should be very precise index. However you mentioned about 2mm offest somewhere. Is that LTC to UTC? Or from UTC to head?

Suggest: measure with dig caliper from UTC to reluctor both banks. Determine if there is a difference. ± some spacers to make it match as a starting point if different.

You can make a precise shim with gasket material and a cricut cutter if you know anybody that's into scrapbooking that has one.
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  #12  
Old 10-19-2021, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
There's always someone faster.
I agree, my comment isn't about the speed, it's about the level of quality one would expect from a vehicle that carries such a title.


Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Agreed. The UTC I thought was doweled to the head so it really should be very precise index. However you mentioned about 2mm offest somewhere. Is that LTC to UTC? Or from UTC to head?

Suggest: measure with dig caliper from UTC to reluctor both banks. Determine if there is a difference. ± some spacers to make it match as a starting point if different.

You can make a precise shim with gasket material and a cricut cutter if you know anybody that's into scrapbooking that has one.
The 2mm (roughly) is the space between the UTC and LTC. The LTC is dowled. The UTC is bolted into the head only with quite a margin at the bolt holes because there are no vertical fasteners in the UTC. This is why the UTCs always have to be set with the profile tool or the double washer method using the VCs. I want to think this is somehow an electric/electronic issue since I've approached it from every angle mechanically but at this point I have no conviction in my views, I've never been so stumped by a vehicle before and I've done a lot of things to a lot of different cars.
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  #13  
Old 10-19-2021, 11:02 PM
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Looking at the geometry, any vertical offest is going to change the timing of the cam position sensor to the wheel.

Say the wheel is 30mm radius to the center of the CPS :

If there is a 2mm difference in the height, that means 4° difference i the timing.
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2021, 12:01 PM
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So I've had a breakthrough. More detail in the BF.com thread I posted in the first post. Turns out I had the flexplate pinned incorrectly, not sure if this was the issue from the beginning or if this only happened the last time around (I am hoping for the former). But I got under the car yesterday after studying photos of the flexplate online and decided to get a good look at the pin in the hole, low and behold it was in the big hole (which would explain why I had so much play in the crank rotation when "locked"). Haven't assembled it yet but given the circumstances and the first concrete piece of evidence to an error on my end and not just a "whatthehellisgoingon?" The CEO in her overwhelmed state of happiness for me while uttering under her breath "EFFING FINALLY" Has suggested that I take some time this weekend to get the beast back together. So I'll check back in soon.
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  #15  
Old 11-10-2021, 03:32 AM
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hope that's the culprit!
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  #16  
Old 11-10-2021, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by guntherrex View Post
hope that's the culprit!
You're not the only one. Thanks.
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  #17  
Old 11-29-2021, 01:00 PM
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Flexplate pinned incorrectly was the issue. Correctly installed pin + GAS Master Tool Set = quick work and timing of the reluctor wheels is dead on.
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  #18  
Old 11-29-2021, 01:02 PM
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Engine back together and running? I like to read Hollywood ending.
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  #19  
Old 11-29-2021, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Engine back together and running? I like to read Hollywood ending.
x2
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  #20  
Old 11-29-2021, 01:41 PM
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Back together and running better than ever. Since I've owned it its had a hesitation on startup where it would stumble as if the tank vent valve was sticking open and that's gone now. Starts with half a crank. So nice to have the beast back.
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