A slightly different door stuck thread

[UPGrayd]

So heres one ive not encountered before. I just went to close the rear right door on my E53, and it wouldnt latch and would just pop back ajar as if something was blocking it....I checked all around the door to make sure nothing was obstructing it and tried again...same result.

With my arms full of stuff, and a hyperactive, overtired 3 year old running laps around my legs I decided to just try closing it with a little bit more force instead of fiddling around with it...this time it latched closed, but will no no longer open using either the exterior or interior release handles.

If you lock the door using the door lock button ontop of the door, attempting to open it from the inside will release the lock, but it wont unlatch the door.


Has anyone encountered this before? I'm well accustomed to the outer handle carrier failure, but this ones different.

[andrewwynn]

The lock button is one way. Internally it's spring loaded and only locks.

When the door won't latch it's almost always because one of the handle levers to the door lock actuator are stuck in the open position.

Example; one drop of water will freeze the mechanism; if you force it open, the ice is still there and holds the lever "unlatched" and the door will not latch until you defrost the DLA. Door handle carrier cable corrosion can cause the caller l cable to effectively shrink and cause the same symptom.

You have bumped into a similar situation where the door is latched but the lever is held up a little bit. Not enough to prevent latching but enough to prevent unlatching the door.

The usual cause for that is the inside door handle cable bound in some way. Was there work done on that door recently?

With any luck you can remove the door window switch module and get in there far enough to unhook the inner door handle. At that point you should be able to operate the door from outside.

The door lock actuator also will cause the can't open when the motor fails for double-lock but that won't give the initial symptom of won't latch.

[UPGrayd]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The lock button is one way. Internally it's spring loaded and only locks.

When the door won't latch it's almost always because one of the handle levers to the door lock actuator are stuck in the open position.

Example; one drop of water will freeze the mechanism; if you force it open, the ice is still there and holds the lever "unlatched" and the door will not latch until you defrost the DLA. Door handle carrier cable corrosion can cause the caller l cable to effectively shrink and cause the same symptom.

So im assuming corrosion on the mechanism caused it to bind in the unlatched position(we dont have freezing issues here in Sunny NSW, Australia in the spring time). Given I managed to get it to latch by closing the door enthusiastically, What would likely be causing it to not unlatch when using either handle now?

[andrewwynn]

Follow-up; if you can unlock but not unlatch from inside means not the double lock motor. It's more likely the outer DHC cable too short if you can unlock pulling the inner handle but can still be the inner handle not releasing far enough to release the internal mechsism of the DLA

[andrewwynn]

It's the same cause for either symptom (won't latch and won't unlatch).

If the outer door handle cable is pulling a lot on the DLA lever or won't latch. If it's pulling just a little it will latch but no longer unlatch.

The hardest part to cure the issue will be getting the door panel off. Sometimes need to remove the seat to get it loose.

You can luck out with some driving over bumps etc to bump the latch onto the reset position or just bumping the door with your ass etc. If you get it open do not close until you remove the door panel.

The back doors are far easier to get at the DHC by removing the DLA so once you get it open, remove the DLA then the DHC. High confidence rusty cable is your cause. You should be able to revive the cable with penetrant. To get a replacement cable will require at least a used DHC they don't come separately afaik.


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[UPGrayd]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

It's the same cause for either symptom (won't latch and won't unlatch).

If the outer door handle cable is pulling a lot on the DLA lever or won't latch. If it's pulling just a little it will latch but no longer unlatch.

The hardest part to cure the issue will be getting the door panel off. Sometimes need to remove the seat to get it loose.

It does feel like its only just beginning to actuate the latch when you use the handles.

I'll head back out and fiddle with it while thumping around the area to see if I can bump it loose....If I have to take the door panel off while its closed I might just drive it into a lake and buy a q7 instead.

[andrewwynn]

You are only feeling the return spring on each lever. If it's thinking of unlatching it will get very firm and resist moving.

Think of it like a ratchet wrench where you can't quite return enough to catch the next tooth it's a very similar situation.

I've seen it on xo numerous times.

The fact you got it to move enough to latch suggests you may get it to move enough to unlatch.

I just realized that you can see the top of the cable if you try hard enough though the rubber seal behind the door handle.

You can very likely get some penetrant into the top of the cable by poking the red tube in just the right place.

I've jimmied open a door with a broken DHC when I accidentally left my key in the car. I pushed on the cable with a screw driver to pull up on the cable.

You could feel for the cable to figure out where to spray then madly operate the door handle to work the penetrant down the cable. If that is the problem (80% chance my estimate), you should not only be able to get there door operating you can also pull the access plug out of the door edge after you get the door open and I think you can even get a better shot at the top of the cable.

BMW added a rubber nipple at the top of the cable to reduce water getting in which will unfortunately make it a little harder to get the penetrant in but it should work in.

If you can get the door open and access the top of the cable from the side you won't need to even take the door apart. (also do the same treatment on each door. Light penetrant only no oil).

I need to refurbish a DHC on my car if I get a chance I'll see if I can get a pic with my fiber optic camera to show what I'm talking about.

You may also be able to spray the top of the cable down along the outer window seal but I think better bet though the door handle when lifted

[UPGrayd]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

You are only feeling the return spring on each lever. If it's thinking of unlatching it will get very firm and resist moving.

Think of it like a ratchet wrench where you can't quite return enough to catch the next tooth it's a very similar situation.

I've seen it on xo numerous times.

The fact you got it to move enough to latch suggests you may get it to move enough to unlatch.

Thank you, I was able to pull the door panel off without too much effort....It certainly helps that all of the factory clips and adhesives are prettymuch non-existent from constantly pulling the panel off to try and satisfy this vehicles insatiable appetite for outer handle carriers. Once I got it off I was able to reach in and manually manipulate the mechanism to unlatch the door. After closing the door again it all seemed fine...I drowned the entire area in wd40 and opened and closed it probably 100 times to get it to work its way in.

I was considering waiting for the wd40 to dry off then doing the same with silicone lubricant spray. Would you advise against that?

[andrewwynn]

No need to douse everything; just get some wd-40 into the cable and work it like mad until it comes out the bottom.

If you don't get below zero where you live you have no concerns about the dla freezing up.

You can prevent DHC from breaking by using my awr-fix guide on the subject: 1 stainless zip tie will prevent the DHC from self destruct where it won't function. (it can break in a way that it's more difficult to operate but you can still get the door open).

Oh: and I've read that you can also swap dhc without removing the door panel by unclipping the cable through the same hole used to access the 4mm screw that holds the DHC into the car! (I will be trying this soon as one of my dhc is in "acting up" mode and I need to figure out what's up with it.

[andrewwynn]

Also: happy to hear the diagnoses was spot on to help you get the door operational.


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